While driving veh lost power, as if not getting fuel. RPM would not go up to 2000. Could only go 10-15 mph. Did not stall. that could not be diagnosed.

ever get a full tune up in 15 years.
lost power is 99% of time just that, not doing service on car.
and is very common,.... so....did you?
spark parts and filters?
lost power can be misfiring or bogging,
misfire is violent and spark.
bogging (smooth) is loss of fueling.
stalling is same
if you cant save the stall with a fast right foot, it is usually loss of fueling.
say, bad fuel, out of fuel, wrong fuel (diesel)
or filter clogged, low fuel pressure. (forget EPS)
fix engine.
unless transmission was slipping what it, RPM rises car fails to move faster, that be SLIP.

ok , i guess you are saying the engine stalls when I use heavy electrical loads (like head lamps or brakes or even blinkers)
and when you shift from park to drive.
ok , if the engine RPM is 800 before the stall, then that is a total loss
of engine power with lost of idle controls.

The big load is in DRIVE on automatics huge going to DRIVE.

if battery voltage (yes, a 10 buck walfart meter works) can see 13.3 to 15vdc idling at 800 or more RPm.
the Alternator does not work below 800 so , dont expect it to.

so, if rpm in park is below 800 then we fix that first, see why?
if idle drops below 800 this is caused buy many things.
one vital fact missing is you didnt say, if I drive it like a stole it.
that is aggressive right foot. , do you have full engine power, now?
ignoring stalls. (see my drift there, "is engine power good;?)

battery volts above 13.3vdc.
idle at 800 and stalls in DRIVE (shifted)

• low fuel pressure.
• never ever tuned up this decade, with all spark parts bad.
• ISC stuck( idle speed controller (it lets in more air , in DRIVE)
• low engine compression.
• other complex ,fueling issues, (ask) and lots of tests. (ask)

if no tachmeter in car or tool box, repairs get dicey.
hard,
it takes tools to diagnose and fix cars.
go tools? or willing to buy them
if not,? get it serviced.

The first part is magic, (EFI system and good engine)
but?????
gauges go off can be a bad fuse or loose fuse to cluster.
when any Gas engine stalls. the RPM drops to 0
the EFI sees that and goes to key on, not started self test.
this is covered in the operator guide.
key light comes on KEY LIGHT, HUMMMMMMM
Let me look at the waring lamps, there are many.
one light is engine overheat that is logo of a thermometer but looks
just like a key.
http://dashboardsymbols.com/the-symbols/
is this a engine stall post
or engine runs perfect all the time , but only my dash acts funny
you didnt say?

key lamp?
immoblilzer (big trouble there)

a stall is anytime engine RPM drops to zero. called a STALL.
if your cars engine stalls, post that way, the lamps are all normal
on at any stall, on any car.
at a stall , rpm goes to zero and MPH drops to zero as you coast to a stop , stalled. that is all normal for any stall.

if engine stalls.
that is complex.
here is list.

1. lost 12vdc power to EFI system. (battery died, fuse blown)
2. never gave your car the 60,000 mile tune up, see opr, guide.
3. bad fuel.
4. overheated the engine.
5. engine oil gone, never ever checked at each fill up.
6. other more complex EFI system parts failures, ASK.

all stalls end in CEL check engine light on. that is normal
but CEL glow. when engine running , means you had a failure, and it stored DTC error codes, so scan it.
lots of causes. huge list.
get a tune up , tops list.

SCAN it to be sure all sensors work. running.
all fuses in car good.
by stalls , i assume the engine stalls and engine RPM is 0 RPM.
the stall cause the whole dash to light up, all the warning lamps come
on (self test) oil , charge , CEL. come on.
what is important is the stall and the cause.

i will tell you the 3 ways.
lost electrical power to engine EFI system (seems not)
bad engine, (lost compression hot)?
bad spark , spark died.?
bad fueling, lost all fueling (starves and stalls or floods and misfires horribly and stalls (black spark plug tips are big time clue)

if non eof the rings a bell.?
get the car serviced.

this car is newer nicer car, you (we) can scan and drive and log data.
allowing faster easy diagnosis.

lost speedometer, what does that mean 0mph at 50? ??????
YES, CHECK all fuses first. all cars, for any electric issues.

A./c lost, (ok there are 6 things that cut A/c some are normal)
one is HVAC dash blower fan must blow or AC brain cuts A.C
this prevent ICE up. (normal)
please:
why guess? please stop guessing and throwing parts and cash.
what does lost all power, driving mean.???
lost engine power (cant drive)
or lost all electric power (a prime reason for EFI to die , for lack of 12vdc electric power)
does lights die on the car, at the moment of problems?
Dash cluster , head lights, any lights.
does engine STALL? (0 RPM is stall) 300 RPM is bad idle.
800 RPM is normal hot idle, never less.

if this is just and engine power issue, (cant drive at all ,or only slow or
slow up hills?)O
my car will not move fast,? in any gear? and transmission don't slip
and no DTC scan codes (checked and smart to do first)

I'd be all over fuel pressure. this is a $20 gauge , that must be connected to the fuel rail to read pressure.
28psi is minimum for all cars.
if i knew what engine was in your car, id look yours up
alldata.com has this info.

the ecu can not report wrong fuel pressure, it cant
so is always and issue, with total engine power loss.
so is skipping 60,000 mile FULL TUNEUP's

if you need those charts they are easy to get. for any car.

tell more get more.... regards

IF I UNDERSTAND YOU RIGHT YOU ARE HAVING A MISFIRE ISSUE UNDER LOAD MOST COMMON FIX IS PLUG WIRES. CHECK VEH FOR BASIC TUNE UP FUEL FILTER PLUGS WIRES FUEL INJECTION CLEANING

Possible inertia switch if veh is equipped, let me get this right though, the light came on when the veh stalled??? didnt they all come on???? warning lights i mean???? try pouring a lil gas into the throttle body and then turning over with the starter, if this works and makes it run for a second then your veh is not getting fuel. if its not getting fuel, then there is no fuel pressure. If there is no fuel pressure there is either a leak that you would almost have to see, or the fuel pump is not running. One way to tell if the pump is not running is to have someone turn the key to the run position while you kneel at one of the rear tires of the veh. you should hear the pump come on for 1- 3 seconds, kind of a whining sound, but slight. If its coming on, but the veh still wont start without adding fuel ,that still doesnt mean that the pump is good, but will eliminate the inertia switch. reply and we go from there...

your in limp mode have the vehicle scanned for trouble codes most auto stores offer this service for free --

Normally this kind of a problem is a fuel block...there so many other ways to block...other than the filter

PLEASE don't forget to RATE ME (FIXYA) for my help..........

my dodge stratus 1996 seems to want to stall when i push on the gas. anyone have any ideas