Can blower motor, cig. lighter, fan cooling motor, door locks all be tied into the blower motor relay faulting out?

as i stated earlier, after discovering and relacing the #28/10ampaccfuse in the inside block, i got a no crank/no start. Pulled that fuse out and started/ran with no problem, obviously without the #47/40amp jfuse in the hood block i have nothing in the way of heat,defraust,etc. this is not acceptable due to safety of course not to mention the 30 degree temp.around here. as i stated earlier, after discovering and relacing the #28/10ampaccfuse in the inside block, i got a no crank/no start. Pulled that fuse out and started/ran with no problem, obviously without the #47/40amp jfuse in the hood block i have nothing in the way of heat,defraust,etc. this is not acceptable due to safety of course not to mention the 30 degree temp.around here.

started cking. relays, discovered the #32/25amp fuse in hood block was burned, replaced - no start/no crank at this point. Only one relay appeared to have a problem #52 AC/CLU 4 pin relay was stuck open until i reversed power from pin 86 to 85, contact tripped and clicking was then heard both with power in to 86, and in to 85. started cking. relays, discovered the #32/25amp fuse in hood block was burned, replaced - no start/no crank at this point. Only one relay appeared to have a problem #52 AC/CLU 4 pin relay was stuck open until i reversed power from pin 86 to 85, contact tripped and clicking was then heard both with power in to 86, and in to 85.

update 11-23, fyi there was resistance in both 85 and 86 as well in ref. to my last comment.
I have now ckd. all relays in both fuse boxes as I have yet to find a diagram that is free and complete enough to find any detail at length for the hard wire end of things.
However I did discover there is no constant hot/feed to the #23 Ign3 relay (pin set) in the main fuse block / passenger side console, the relay cks. good, no power on either 30 or 87 pin slot. update 11-23, fyi there was resistance in both 85 and 86 as well in ref. to my last comment. I have now ckd. all relays in both fuse boxes as I have yet to find a diagram that is free and complete enough to find any detail at length for the hard wire end of things. However I did discover there is no constant hot/feed to the #23 Ign3 relay (pin set) in the main fuse block / passenger side console, the relay cks. good, no power on either 30 or 87 pin slot.

I use repair info from AutoZone's website. If you register (free) you can access their data base which would have some/most of the wiring diagrams for your truck. You may end up having to buy a used shop manual from Ebay to get all of the diagrams.
The people who answer questions here on Fixya are volunteers and don't usually have access to factory shop manuals. I use repair info from AutoZone's website. If you register (free) you can access their data base which would have some/most of the wiring diagrams for your truck. You may end up having to buy a used shop manual from Ebay to get all of the diagrams. The people who answer questions here on Fixya are volunteers and don't usually have access to factory shop manuals.

Quit snowing so figured I would proceed with another look into the wiring harness issue where I heard a couple items engage when I tugged on it after initial no start result...
After hearing what sounded very similar to a relay somewhere up tight under the dash in the darkness between the passenger airbag and the glovebox compartment or where it would have been as I pulled it to access the blower and resistor prior. Laying on my back face up on the passenger side floor board looking approx. where the latch for the box would be located I moved the main wire harness and wittnessed a very notable crack followed by a splash of spark that exposed thru closer examination a bundle of melted plastic surrounding more than a few copper strands of wire blended with an unknown number of others within the harness ending my search for the answer to my question " Can blower motor, cig. lighter, fan cooling motor, door locks all be tied into the blower motor relay faulting out?"
Answer: You know they can... if somehow pinched squeezed smashed rubbed or in some form altered to allow the wires to touch causing a short!!
I will follow up with info on the repair and results later. Meantime, if your blower motor runs without power in your 2001 Aztek and the proceeding has not helped, I strongly encourage looking in this area for this same problem!! Quit snowing so figured I would proceed with another look into the wiring harness issue where I heard a couple items engage when I tugged on it after initial no start result... After hearing what sounded very similar to a relay somewhere up tight under the dash in the darkness between the passenger airbag and the glovebox compartment or where it would have been as I pulled it to access the blower and resistor prior. Laying on my back face up on the passenger side floor board looking approx. where the latch for the box would be located I moved the main wire harness and wittnessed a very notable crack followed by a splash of spark that exposed thru closer examination a bundle of melted plastic surrounding more than a few copper strands of wire blended with an unknown number of others within the harness ending my search for the answer to my question " Can blower motor, cig. lighter, fan cooling motor, door locks all be tied into the blower motor relay faulting out?" Answer: You know they can... if somehow pinched squeezed smashed rubbed or in some form altered to allow the wires to touch causing a short!! I will follow up with info on the repair and results later. Meantime, if your blower motor runs without power in your 2001 Aztek and the proceeding has not helped, I strongly encourage looking in this area for this same problem!!

If you are checking the relay itself, 85 and 86 are usually the terminals for the magnet that closes the connection between 30 and 87. So it should have resistance. One terminal gets power and the other gets ground from the engine computer or another source. Then you have power on 30 or 87 and the fourth terminal goes to the component you are powering. So if you are checking the female terminals, you have two power, one ground, and one to the component. If you are checking the relay itself, 85 and 86 are usually the terminals for the magnet that closes the connection between 30 and 87. So it should have resistance. One terminal gets power and the other gets ground from the engine computer or another source. Then you have power on 30 or 87 and the fourth terminal goes to the component you are powering. So if you are checking the female terminals, you have two power, one ground, and one to the component.

thanks for the input, having a bit of difficulty following the whole set up here on fixya, no one sure distinct procedure to get to my question, add or update info in an efficient manne??? not giving up though, seems this could be an excellent source for a whole lot of shade trees as well as the pros!!
ok, fyi stephen your help is greatly appreciated regardless of what might be voted on.
I found the problem, it had nothing at all to do with any parts, fuses, relays, connections etc.
The source of all this wackiness in the 2001 aztek is and has been for some time based on the evident physical destruction of the wire cluster a major damage of the protective coating around more than a couple wires running from the underhood fuseblock. thanks for the input, having a bit of difficulty following the whole set up here on fixya, no one sure distinct procedure to get to my question, add or update info in an efficient manne??? not giving up though, seems this could be an excellent source for a whole lot of shade trees as well as the pros!! ok, fyi stephen your help is greatly appreciated regardless of what might be voted on. I found the problem, it had nothing at all to do with any parts, fuses, relays, connections etc. The source of all this wackiness in the 2001 aztek is and has been for some time based on the evident physical destruction of the wire cluster a major damage of the protective coating around more than a couple wires running from the underhood fuseblock.