Battery light, oil light, and EPS light come on together, car loses acceleration and brake then stalls. Starts right up again.

It'll pay to have the crank sensor checked. They're known for heating up and stalling the car when they're no longer any good. Usually once it has cooled down the car will start but as soon as the sensor gets hot it'll stall again

It sounds like the alt is overcharging upon acceleration.It starts right back up after it stalls,right? There is some further testing to be done but get that ckd out. Good Luck

Do you have check engine light on? You probably forgot to plug something in when you where putting it back together.

id not drive it or even run it with low oil pressure.. boom $3000 in to rat hole?
or did the engine stall. RPM goes to zero so does oil pressure.
all normal for a stall. did it stall????????
if not check fuses.
if did, diagnose stalling, ask !

closes bet its a bad alternator, bad battery or loose connections, last 2 options throtle needs to reprogram,bad as well.

Whenever this warning light or any other stays on in the dash it is indicating that the systems control module (or the system sensor in the case of lights like low oil pressure, door open indicators etc.) has detected a fault, it then disables the system (this applies to ABS,TCS, TCM, SRS and BCM faults and others) as long as the light is on. You must now have the dealer hook up a special electronic diagnostic tool and "scan" the system for the fault code that is stored for the problem(s)

Legend of Abbreviations. ABS Antilock brake system.TCS Traction control system, TCM Transmission control module, SRS Supplemental restraint system, BCM Body control module

I had a similar problem with my Santa Fe. It occurred intermittently but after I turned the steering wheel to the left. After much screwing around by the dealer and trying to baffle me with BS we heard about a strange solution. I am not a mechanic but the problem somehow related to a spring in the Airbag on the steering wheel. Changed the spring and "Stone the flame'n crows" problem solved. Never had a problem since.

Click the link below to troubleshoot this problem: ---
Car loses power while acceleration? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-loses-power-while-acceleration.html

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Loss of acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html

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Acceleration lag problem?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html

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How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-cable.html

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How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html

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accelerator pedal sensor?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html

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stalls and bucks on Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

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Engine accelerates when brake is applied?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/engine-accelerates-when-brake-is.html

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This will help.

Thanks.

Ok, with the battery, oil etc lights are governed by simple circuits, and therfore, as soon as they receive power, and earth, they turn off right away.

With the other lights, the malfunction and EPS lights, these go through a self-test function where they check a number of sensors, not just one, and they do this very quickly......the malfunction light checks out 20-35 different sensors, and in less than 1-2 seconds, thats fast.........

However, if they STAY on, then this is where it detects a problem and you should come back and see us again.

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idle air controll motor is bad