No, to the second question- sensor won't make it crank any different. Faster than normal cranking often means a broken timing belt -less friction with the valve train not moving, so engine spins faster. But you have a timing chain, right? Any engine noise when it quit at 60mph? You could watch some valve action through the oil filler cap while the engine is being cranked, to make sure the timing chain is still intact.
If all is good, check for spark and gas to the engine. If stopped while running, it could be a failed fuel pump or a problem in the ignition system- cam or crank sensor, ignition coil, ignition control module, some of the things to check if no spark.
I don't know if you are able to see the comments I've added since your awesome response to my question. So I found a fuse that is blown, it's located in the fuse box in the engine bay. More specific is, closer to the brake booster but mounted on the fender well I think or maybe wheel well mounted. But I haven't had a chance to see what it is servicing or whatever, what shuts down when it blows rather. It's the first row of mini fuses behind the huge maxi types if you're starting at the front end of the fuse compartment. Front meaning front of the truck. Do you know right off what this box is in charge of powering, or is it something I need to get a diagram for? Thanks for the time and help.
You would have to find a diagram, like an owner's manual would most certainly show it, more doubtful if a Haynes or Chilton manual would show a complete description as they are severely edited versions of the factory service manual, probably better luck googling it, try that if no owners manual. One other possibility is a parts person at ford dealer might be able to get you a copy-but I don't know if they'd still have it. The fuses cover a lot of circuits, there would be a fuel pump fuse in that block, other engine accessories-alternator (big fuse, though),abs fuses, some lights, etc. Watch the fuse when you replace it and see if it blows again after key is on. Then you know you probably have a short in the wiring or a bad component. Let me know...good luck.
Frank, I found that block. It's called a Battery Junction Box. But I may be seeing it wrong, I mean from how it is situated in the car-which end is to front. If relays are towards the rear: your first row of mini fuses are: (#9)- 20amp fuel pump and anti-theft system (RAP),(#10)- 15amp HORN, (#11)- 15amp Parking Lamps, (#12)- 30amp Headlamps and fog lamps. (#9 is toward the inside and #12 is to the outside of vehicle.) /// If relays are at the front of this box, your first row of mini fuses are (#1)- 10amp A/C clutch system, (#2)- 30amp Heated Seats, (#3)- 30amp Rear Window Defrost, (#4)- 15amp DRL, Fog Lamps---in this layout with relays at the front, #1 is to the outside, and #4 is towards inside. /// Hope this makes sense, I can give you a link to see the box, if you want.
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Loss of cam shaft sensor signal can cause a vehicle to die at any speeds but from what you are describing it sounds more like a crank shaft sensor failure. when this sensor fails the computer will determine that the engine is not rotating and will either cut off fuel or ignition spark. no fuel explains why the engine turns over so quickly without starting. spray carb cleaner or starting fluid into the air cleaner housing, where the air filter is and then try to start. if it starts or sounds like its going to start then your not getting fuel. if nothing changes and I still just turns over quickly then you don't have spark. figure out which one is missing and then you know which direction to go with the diagnosis
SOURCE: Engine died at hwy speed crank/cam sensor faults
o1 cruiser spit and sputter go down rd put cam sensor and crank shaft sensor on wouldnt run at alll with new crank sensor had to put old one on please hel
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