Need torgue specs and diagram for the following parts intake,plentum valve covers, and any other related parts when replaceing lifters also clearance for valve rockers THANK YOU

That is a ridiculously high price to replace lifters on a 4 or 6 cylinder engine. On the Mitsubishi 4 cylinder motor, the only thing that is needed to do is remove the valve cover and remove the rocker rod. (2 rods which hold the rocker assembly.) Next is remove the lifters from the bottoms of the rockers and pop in the new ones. Be sure to soak the new lifters in oil for 24-48hrs prior to install so they are pre-filled before install. Replace the rocker assembly and torque down to specs. replace valve cover and then start the vehicle. Check that there is no loud tapping noise and do not race the engine until the lifters have pumped up with engine oil. You should replace oil and filter for this engine work as well.

hi valve covers are never more the 8 to 10 nm newton meters start in the middle one across from each other then criss cross one on the top right then to the left bottom ,then top left,right bottom work your way out till they are all done cant be too tight or it will squish the gasket and cause leaks danny

You should go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it, parts info, fuse box, gear box, torque specs, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything

Lower: Torque to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)

Upper: Torque to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)

Sequences below:





Good luck.

I find it hard to believe that it runs fine but, to replace either, you need to remove the intake manifold. Likely you will find both items in the lifter galley. Before dropping a lifter in there, make sure the cam lobe is still good....If the old lifter is severely worn on the cam end, likely it's not. After replacing the parts, but before replacing the valve cover and manifold, turn the engine by hand and make sure that the valve opens and rocker travel is the same as all others.
The r&r is covered in haynes and chilton manuals. One tip is to always use washers on any bolt that attaches the manifold to the heads to spread the torque load and yes, always torque any aluminum manifold to prevent warpage..
If either part has fallen into the oil pan (unlikely) it actually can stay there forever without harming anything.

Yes you will need the following:

Cam
Lifters
Assembly lube
Water pump gasket
Intake gasket
Timing cover gasket

Lifter removal tool
Puller for harmonic balancer
Cam installation tool/removal tool


I also would recommend replacing the timing chain and timing gears since you are going to have to take the timing chain off anyhow.

You will also need the associated tools to do the job, plenty off rachets, box wrenches and such.

If you are doing mechanical lifters you will also a feeler gauge to measure the valve clearance and make adjustments.

I cant think of anything else off the top of my head.

If you are doing a cam with more lift then I would recommend replacing your valve springs as well, it is easy and it will assure you do not incur valve float. You will have to take the rockers off when you install the new lifters because you have to remove the pushrods. I also recommend you replace the pushrods while you are at it, they are cheap. You will need a valve spring compressor and new valve springs and locks, they are pretty cheap.

intake and exaust manifold are completely different issues...do you mean that you need to replace gasket for intake system,,,as this is very common on GM vehicles...if you dont know much about cars...you should leave it to someone who does,as it involves pulling the upper intake plentum,valve covers,sometimes push rods and then finally the intake....hope to have helped...LEE

The first step is to remove all the parts that are in the way of you being able to remove the valve covers. (Ex.: air intake, loose wires etc.) Then you will need to remove your valve covers (using basic tools) and be very careful to not let anything get on your lifters, which your valve covers protect. Once you have the valve covers off compare the new gaskets to make sure they are the right size. Then remove the old gasket and replace with the new one using a high temp gasket sealant (available at any auto parts store) to attach the gasket to the valve covers. Then tighten down snug and check for leaks after replaced. 

Crank the engine until the mark on the damper aligns with the TDC mark on the timing tab and the engine is in #1 firing position.

To adjust a valve back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod. Tighten the nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrods with your fngers. When all lash is removed the pushrod will stop rotating. When all play is removed rotate the nut one full turn.

With the engine in #1 firing position the following valves can be adjusted:
Exhaust 1,3,4,8
Intake 1,2,5,7

Crank engine one full revolution - The following valves can now be adjusted:
Exhaust 2,5,6,7
Intake 3,4,6,8

The lifter specs....I can tell you that its an Over Head Valve engine that utilizes hydraulic roller lifters. Specs are as follows: (2.1 inch by .8425 inch) Autozone part number - JB2270...hope that helped cause thats all i could dig up on them. I know those engines were notorious for manifold leaks.