To swap ecc for non ecc do you change motor and relay or is there more

Question edited for clarity and better English.
Question moved to maker category.

Check the radiator fan motor by disconnecting the leads and then apply 12 volts direct from the battery.

If the fan is working, you need an auto electrician because the fault them becomes a computer issue, because you have swapped out all the controlling elements.

What problem's are you having ? What do you think ECCS stands for ? The black box ebay shows is a CCRM - constant control relay module , has four or five relay's inside , A/C compressor clutch , fuel pump , radiator cooling fans (2) an the PCM relay . Your vehicle doesn't have this . Now if you explain what you think a ECCS relay is we could then help you . Do not believe your vehicle has a ECCS relay , none that i can find on wiring diagrams or factory service repair info.

more than likely sensor is at fault

Check for an accessory relay above the fuse panel. The relay is turned on by the ignition run or ignition accessory wire, and then sends power to the accessory fuses in the fuse panel. I have an '87 Nissan. Above the fuse panel in the dash is a tray that can be pulled out to see the accessory relay, ECCS relay, and the ignition relay. Nissan often used the same relay, same part number, for many applications. Try the bulb check relay under the hood as a swap.

This Code means there is a difference between the throttle body flap angle and the settings for it. Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and see if it will refresh for the new parts.

There is a small adjustment for the TPS in the slotted end hole for the mount. Also check if you have successfully installed the TPS to the throttle shaft.

I do not know if the lack of power was before or after the change in parts. There is an Ignition Relay or the ECC Relay or Diode which could cut off power. Those should be in a Powerbox, usually as a trio.

Would like a final comment on the cure- others may have this same problem and I would be able to help them from what you tell me.

For the sake of completeness, here's the full no-start Troubleshooting Guide for the 2001 6 cylinder 3.5L MFI Mitsu Diamante, but the problem with your car is line item #6 - the ECC (Engine Control Computer) is shorted/dead. Without an ECC, the Diamante will (a) get no spark, since the ignition timing comes from the computer, and (b) get no fuel, since the fuel injectors are operated by the computer as well. The engine will turn over, since running the starter motor is a non-computer controlled matter of a correctly functioning ignition switch, a charged battery, and good wiring to a functional starter motor/solenoid, but will never start.
The clue pointing directly to the ECC failure is the blowing ECC fuses. These fuses are blowing to tell you that the ECC is shorted dead.
Since the ECC is expensive, exhaustively check out all other possible sources of the problems, but with so few problems causing loww of both spark and fuel, combined with the blown ECC fuses pointing directly to the ECC, it seems that the ECC is the only culprit.
Here's a used 2001 Mitsu Diamante ECC at Ebay for $175.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270828804340+&item=270828804340&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466


Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Choke - Stuck or Improperly Functioning Choke.
2 Inspect Fuel Filter - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
3 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay - Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator - Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
5 Inspect Fuel Pump - Low Fuel Pressure.
6 Inspect Engine Control Computer - Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
7 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer.
8 Inspect Ignition Switch - Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
9 Inspect Battery - Battery Discharged or Faulty.
10 Inspect Battery Cable - Coroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
11 Inspect Solenoid - Starter Solenoid Faulty.
12 Inspect Starter - Starter Motor Faulty.
13 Inspect Wireset - Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.
14 Inspect Ignition Coil - Faulty Ignition Coil.
15 Inspect Distributor Cap - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.
16 Inspect Spark Plugs - Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
17 Inspect Distributor Rotor - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Rotor.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank - Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor - Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.

The fuel pump strainer is a sock-like strainer in the fuel tank on the input side of the fuel pump designed to protect the fuel pump by straining out any debris in the tank (similar to the way that the fuel filter protects the engine/fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator).

It sounds like a a bad relay. See if there is a separate relay for the taillight/stoplights and swap it with another relay to see if there is any change.

swap them out they are the same one, they are the exact same relay so switching them wont hurt anything, that's the best way to see what the problem is

I understand that there is a relay box under the hood with 3 relays. Which is which I don't know. However if you are blowing the fuse TO the ecc relay, then the relay must be bad. This relay controls the spark.

My girlfriend has an eddie bauer as well. We had an issue where the blower motor for the heater comes on unexpectedly when the key is out and it's parked. And kills the battery ... in about 3 hours ... We pulled the 30A blower motor fuse under the hood ... I think it was called the ECC fuse Electronic Climate Control ... Go put that fuse back in ... sit in the car the blower for your heat may come on ... Maybe ... ours happened onlt 2x in 6 months, then it has been fine ... there are two possible solutions replace the ECC motor control (under the hood and fairly difficult to get to), or it could be the less likely Dash heat contol panel ... both are costly