If your car is not overheating at idle,and overheats after short drive that means its building compression in to the cooling system,that happens when you drive with high RPM then you come to stop that's when the temp.goes up,i would say you need a new head gasket and a valve job.
Either need a new thermostat or water pump.
Change the thermostat first, its on the top of your engine from from the top hose on the radiator.
Anew water pump can cost you around $400 maybe more.
Might be a plugged up radiator
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_573a00ba7e399076
SOURCE: need to replace the thermostat in a 1994 Toyota Camry
1. Look up along the lower radiator hose. It will plug into a metal
tube on the engine side. Follow the metal tube. It goes to a housing.
The housing is kind of buried in the driver's side of the engine. There
are 2 smaller coolant tubes plugged in above it. You do not need to
touch those, although it looks at first glance like you do.
2. Disconnect lower radiator hose at the metal tube.
3. Disconnect fan switches 1 and 2. These are on elecrtical harnesses going to this housing.
4. Disconnect a sensor on the front of the engine, just above
the lower hose. I believe this is the knock sensor, but I'm not sure.
5. Now for the fun part. There are 3 bolts holding this housing
on. You can see one at the top. There are 2 others underneath it, such
that the bolts form a triangle pattern. You will have to get the bottom
2 out by feel (blind). They are 10mm.
6. Also, if you look to the front of the housing, you will note
another 10mm bolt on the front holding down a black plastic leg. This
is a wiring harness duct. Remove that bolt. Trace back along the duct.
There is one more bolt on the driver's side retaining the duct. There
is also one on the back of the engine at the firewall / driver's side.
Remove these 2 as well.
7. There is a 12mm bolt holding the metal tube from that housing to the driver's side. Remove that bolt.
8. Gently pry the plastic wiring duct toward driver's side, and
back toward firewall. You have just enough to get it off of the stud on
the thermostat housing.
9. Now you can pull the housing. It will not come all the way
out. It will come loose enough to give you just enough clearance to
remove the thermostat (barely). Once you remove the thermostat, you
have to pass it downward and toward the firewall to fumble it out.
By the way, you will notice that the metal tube is kind of wiggly in the thermostat housiung. This is normal.
10. Pass the new thermostat in the same way you got the old one
out. Make sure when you plug it in that it has an air bleed poppet, and
that this poppet is facing up.
11. Reassemble by reversing removal. Getting the nuts / bolts back in blind is... fun...
I don't know the torque spec. You can get a torqure wrench in
there barely if you get creative with extensions, knuckles, etc. I
wouldn't go abouve 8-10 ft-lb.
SOURCE: How much freon does the 1994 Toyota camry hold?
Refrigerant Type R-134a Amount 30oz
Oil Type PAG-46 amount 8 oz
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SOURCE: how to change a rear wheel bearing on a 1994 toyota camry
The rear wheel bearing on a toyota camry is replaced by replacing the wheel bearing and hub as a unit. this is a design change as compare to older models with two piece wheel bearings. Scotch drive wheels. Remove rear wheel. Remove rear brake drum. (note: if emergency brakes are applied you will not be able to remove brake drum) Remove dust cap and hub retaining nut. Hub should slide off as unit. Replace hub with new unit. Installation is reverse of removal.
SOURCE: 1994 toyota fuel pump relay
Fuel pump relay is in the engine compartment left side fuse block
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