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Doesn't have fuse for power windows . Has circuit breaker ,
System circuit breaker (POWER WDWS Circuit Breaker 30A )
Those rarely go bad .
Power Windows System Components
The power window system consists of the following components:
• Window master switch
• Front passenger window switch
• LR window switch
• RR window switch
• Window motors in each of the doors
• System circuit breaker (POWER WDWS Circuit Breaker 30A)
Power Windows System Controls
The power windows system can be controlled by a power window up or down switch activation.
Driver Window Operation
When the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACCY position, or retained accessory power (RAP) is enabled and the window master switch is activated to the DOWN position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor causing the window to open. When the window master switch is activated to the UP position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor in the opposite direction and the window closes.
The window master switch also controls the front passenger, LR, and RR windows.
Express Down Feature
The driver window will travel to the fully down position when the window master switch is pressed past the first detent. Activating the window master switch to the UP position will cancel the express down feature.
Lockout Switch Feature
The window master switch has a lockout switch which disconnects the battery positive voltage to the LR and RR window switches, disabling them.
Individual Window Operation
When the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACCY position, or RAP is enabled and an individual window switch is activated to the DOWN position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor causing that window to open. When the individual window switch is activated to the UP position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor in the opposite direction causing that window to close.
The only way to find the problem would be to view wiring diagrams an test the electrical circuits with a volt meter .
Look for broken wires in the driver's door opening. If you don't find any, you will need a test light or voltmeter to check for power at the driver's door master switch. For any electrical testing problem, you really need a voltmeter. You can check for power to the master switch on one single wire, with key ON. You can also use the multi-meter to check the ground for the power windows right at the master switch.
Most likely bad window switch or broken wire in the driver's door hinge area. ALL window wiring goes through the master switch. Since master switch gets most use and that door opens and closes the most, the switch and wires are the first place you look when you get this kind of window behavior.
The lock switch is designed to keep the passenger buttons from being used. It should not stop the master switch from operating the windows - or at least, that's what the 2003 Buick Century Owner's Manual says.
After studying the schematics for your vehicle, Iwould say that the owner's manual is correct. The lockout switch only cuts power to the passenger switches. The driver's (master) switch can still power the passenger windows. If none of the passenger windows work from either the driver's door switch or the passenger switches, then the master switch probably has an internal open circuit causing this. There is no separate relay or fuse. I would replace the master switch. Be sure and check ALL switches with the lock on and the lock off to verify this before replacing anything.
On the right side of your glove box, open the passenger door to access compartment #26 30 amp.
As for the power windows, try this. 1.Measure voltage at 30 amp circuit breaker #26 at fuse block.
Meter should read battery voltage. If not, replace or repair open to 60 amp
fuse #13 in Power Distribution Center (PDC) as required. 2.Turn ignition switch to off and measure resistance from ground
lug on left side kick panel to ground. Meter read zero ohms. If not, repair
open to ground. 3.Remove master power window switch on left front door. Measure
resistance at black wire (terminal one of green connector). Meter should read
zero ohms. If not, repair open to ground. 4.Turn ignition switch to on and measure voltage at terminal 5 of
black connector. Meter should read battery voltage. If not, repair open to
circuit breaker #26 in fuse block. 5.Close master window switch. Measure voltage at terminal 1 of
black connector. Meter should read battery voltage. If not, replace switch. 6.Operate window switch. All windows should operate.
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nothing is common between these two windows that wound NOT affect the other two so with the information you provided it sounds like a defective master window switch
replace with a known good or do the following... Remove the master switch disconnect the harness from the switch provide a good power to the harness pin #3 white/yellow provide a good ground to the harness pin #4 tan/lt blue
again, assuming all the other window work with all the other switches then again it sounds like the master switch is the cause
There is a control its the master or central junction box called window adjust switch. Its in the main junction box there are four fuses in this row then a long control in location f-401 this is the last option for the windows roof opening panel sliding window driver and passenger window adjust that I know of.
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