I've bled the slave cylinder
SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch
have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.
SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: im having difficulty in bleeding a cluch o a ford
clutch systems bleed just like brakes, if you have an external leak at the clutch master cylinder, then bleeding will be difficult, it should be replaced. I use a two person bleeding system, I fill the master, crack the bleeder screw open and have my 2nd push the clutch down and hold it, then I close the bleeder and tell my 2nd to release the pedal, repeat until no air is present.
SOURCE: I replaced the clutch and slave cylinder on my
It needs to be pressure bled, you can open the bleeder valve on the slave and remove the cap and push and hold the pedal down once, if it allows fluid to flow threw the bleeder port let it bleed about a pint of fluid to completely rid system with air. Remove the hose off the master clutch assembly and have someone press down on the clutch pedal to see it the master cylinder is pressurizing, if it does reconnect and keep trying. If not remove master and use a screwdriver to push piston on the master to see if fluid comes out. If it does not pressurize you have a bad master. this is a common problem. Also you could have a bad master cylinder or slave so start the procedure above and if it does not pressurize up pull slave off the truck and have it tested.
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