2003 Audi A4 Cabriolet Logo
Charles Walker
Charles Walker Posted on Oct 16, 2015
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Detailed instructions on front bumper removal. NOTE: From all the videos, it appears the CAB is different than the sedan. An example is the grill does NOT come up with the hood.

NOTE: From all the videos, it appears the CAB is different than the sedan. An example is the grill is not attached to the hood. Need to remove front bumper to replace snub nose motor mount. The three bolts everyone says are down the side of the fender, are NOT there

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Sloop Johnb

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  • Posted on Nov 16, 2015
Sloop Johnb
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Joined: Jul 04, 2009
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Remove wheels. Remove fender liners front. Remove three nuts per side from inside fender wells. Remove fog lamp grilles. Remove vertical bolt just inside grilles--pointing up. Remove two screws per side under hood near front of fender. Put milk crate under front bumper. Remove belly pan first. Slide bumper forward onto milk crate, disconnect headlight washer line at quick disconnect if so equipped. Disconnect fog light connectors. Remove bumper.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1586 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 29, 2008

SOURCE: Front Bumper

Chances are the shop that initially replaced your bumper didn't do it right and the shoddy install left it sitting lower than it should have. Because of this, you were able to snag the bumper on the parking block. The reason you have to replace it is most likely the mounting bolt holes were torn out or otherwise damaged when the bumper was caught, and there is no longer a mounting surface to use with new mount bolts to put the bumper back on.

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colin white

  • 345 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 26, 2008

SOURCE: 1995 audi a6

two bolts through middle(allen key)they are about halfway along you will see them if you look underneath near edges of number plate.....

Anonymous

  • 243 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 30, 2008

SOURCE: audi Q7 transmission rear crossmember broke down need to remove member bolt

I think that it wouldn't be a good idea to use en electric arc welder as the current generated by the welding poles could damage small integrated components. May be you sould try drilling them out instead.
Cheers

Anonymous

  • 27 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 07, 2008

SOURCE: oil pan removal

see if anything is stopping you from removeing the oil pan make sure you have a jack r somthing under the oilpan in case it drops make sure all bolts have been removed check for hiden 1s you might be surprised it shoul come free if not come back to me

Anonymous

  • 94 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 09, 2009

SOURCE: need to remove front grill to open the hood?????

JACK UP YOUR CAR AND REMOVE THE RETAINING BOLTS THAT HOLD ON THE PLASTIC UNDER TRAY.AND NOW YOU CAN GET AT THE LOCKING MECHANISM ITS SELF..............(NO DAMAGE)...........

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2. Next, test the fit of the new front bumper. Make sure that nothing hinders with the placement and fit on the car.
3. If the fitment is correct the installation process may move forward.
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5. Most of the time the new aftermarket bumper is placed the exact way the factory piece was. The most important key to great fitment in installation is the drilling procedure. The holes should be drilled in the places that will give the piece a great fit. Usually, these holes will be drilled in the same place as the factory bumper. At this point only mocking is required.
6. When the bumper is in place, shaving or filing maybe required. Many parts will require this because certain areas are made with more material to lower the risk of damage. Also, if a car has been in an accident or previously modified, this may cause additional sanding, cutting or filing.
7. Now that the front fits well, be very precise and drill the holes.
8. Prepping for paint is what needs to be done after the holes have been drilled. Depending on what material the front bumper is made of will determine the steps for prepping.
9. After the piece has been painted, clear coating may be appropriate.
10. Make sure there are not any leftover parts and that everything is secure. After this is done, your front bumper installation process is complete.
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I neede to remove the headlights for my 2008 E 350 and need instructions. OIt appears that removing the front bumper is needed ? Thanks
Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.



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How to replace head light on 2004 maxima?
"The bad news is that to be able to access the 3 other bolts that hold the light assembly together, you have to remove the front bumper. including the grill. It is really not that hard, but you should take your time to do it right and to make sure you put it back together the same way. To remove the bumber you must unscrew to screws that are located inside each wheelwell behind the cover. I found it easier to remove both front wheels and hold the car up in stands unfront. these are the only screws that you will find, two on each side. after that just remove the black self taping screws from the grill and then reach behind the grill and compress the tabs that hold the grill to the bumper. remove the grill and then keep removing the self taping screws until the bumper comes off. BE CAREFULL to not let the bumper drop as it still has your conner lights connected. you can disconnect the corner lights or just place something to support the bumper. Hope this helps you, If you take it to the dealer they charge a labor of about $250.00 plus parts." -http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2004-2008-nissan-maxima-gen-6-discussion/237350-2004-nissan-maxima-se-headlight-bulb-replacement.html
check out other fourms on this website and others to find diagrams and more detailed instructions on how to change the headlight
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Aug 06, 2009 • 2004 Nissan Maxima
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