Remove vacuum hose from booster. Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the booster. Carefully move booster to one side for ease of removal. Under the dashboard drivers side, remove the clip connecting the brake pedal to the booster actuator rod. Remove the two nuts holding the booster to the firewall. Outside, remove the booster. Installation is reverse of removal. There may be an adjustable rod in the replacement booster. It is important that it is adjusted properly or you may not have brakes or you could damage the master cylinder. Looking at the old booster, check to see how far the rod extends out the front of the booster. Check the new booster and make sure that the new rod extends the same distance. DO NOT ADJUST THE RODS TO THE SAME LENGTH BY PLACING THEM SIDE BY SIDE! Different designs could cause different rod length internal to the booster. What is important is the amount that extends out from the booster. This distance will not change since the master cylinder bolts directly up to the booster.
SOURCE: 1989 Lincoln Town Car Heater core
Go to Autozone and purchase a Clymer repair manuel. It will show how to remove the dash. You need to find all the screws.
SOURCE: How to replace Power Steering Pump 95...
It is a Little Tough. If you are not Mechanically Inclined, This is better left to a Pro. There is a Preassure line in the System that could cause Injury if not removed Corrctly.
SOURCE: 1999 Lincoln Town Car (Check brake Light comes on intermittently
brake light switch located on the steering column by brake peddal
SOURCE: My 1989 Lincoln Town Car is blowing hot air all the time..
I have the same problem in my 1997 model. I was told that it is a actuator switch located in the system behind the glove box. The part is about 30.00, but labor to remove the dash to get to it is about 600.00.
SOURCE: 1997 lincoln town car 4.6 with a p0430 fault code
I will make an assumption here, we know what the root word means. This code was extracted from the computer by? What this is telling you one of 2 things: The Bank 2 oxygen sensor down stream of the catalytic converter (there are 2 converters, one for each bank of cylinders on the 4.6ltr engine) is bad and/or that the Bank 2 catalytic converter is no longer doing the job it was designed to do. Simply, Catalysts wear out. They are good for approx 100,000 miles (as required by Federal Law). Again, I assume that the reason the intake manifold was replaced was because it had a crack in one, or more, of the runners? (part that feeds the head of a manifold). It may have taken a while to find this as being the cause of why the car running incorrectly, maybe rough. This means, that during the time the car was being driven with the problem, the amount of unburned, or not within spec exhaust gases, coming off the side of the engine affected by the intake issue was higher than normal. This out of balance level of exhaust gases were being dumped into the converter on that side of the engine, thus causing the converter to have to run hotter, work harder, or even at the time the gas was being processed through, causing deposits to be formed in the converter, thus shortening it's life span. The Bank 1 side of the engine, apparently, did not have the issue and it's catalytic converter's life was not affected. I hope this makes sense to you.
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