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No, the bleeding instructions are standard protocol. Was your replacement pump new, rebuilt or used? Exactly what was the failure that drove you to replace the power steering pump? Did you flush the power steering system before installing the new pump? If so, did you find or recover and chunks or steel shards? Can you hear the new pump whining or working as you turn the wheel (engine running). Before replacing the pump it may be worth removing both tie rod ends and see if either side is seized. If that test passes, (With the engine off) is the steering hard? if so, the rack may be damaged. If the rack passes then you the failure should be either a stuck check valve or defective pump. There are a few other notes to consider. Make sure the belt is on and tight. Make sure the power steering fluid is full and not aerated. Both aerated fluid and unbleed air in the power steering system will result in poor steering.
It could be or the steering rack . The power steering system uses a CII type power steering pump (3A674) and a power rack and pinion steering gear.
If you never replaced either of these parts before suggest you take to a ASE certified repair shop .
Pump Flow and Pressure Tests
Before performing pump flow and pressure test, complete the following checks for conditions which could cause loss of power assist. Take corrective action if necessary.
Check power steering oil reservoir (3A697) for proper fluid level.
Check tires for correct air pressure.
Check drive belt (8620) for proper tension.
Check power steering pump (3A674) for correct model and vehicle application.
Check for correct size power steering pump pulleys (3A733) on power steering pump and engine.
Check entire system for damage. Replace parts, if necessary.
If the above items are correct, or have been corrected, and the loss of assist still exists, test power steering pump flow and pressure to determine whether the trouble is in the power steering pump , power rack and pinion steering gear or hoses.
this problem indicates a bad steering rack. the bushings in the rack are worn and have caused groves in the housing causing the binding. the only solution is to replace the steering rack. if a problem was the power steering pump it would not get easy when you turn the steering wheel further the problem would be there all the time.
I'm going to agree with the rack conclusion. Keep in mind I can't see it for myself. If you take the load off the front wheels, you should be able to turn the steering wheel without effort. If the effort changes while turning the wheel, the only things affected would be the rack and the column. If you notice it turns ok with the engine off but not with the engine running, it could be something with the pump or one of the lines, or still something with the rack.
Does the power steering have fluid in it. Is the belt on the pump. With it running take the cap off of the pump and see if fluid is moving around. If u feel the steering knucle is to tight u can also take the tie rod off and see if it turns free. Also go back to who fixed it and say its not right, Make it right. Most garages give 12 month or 12.000 mile warranty.
POWER STEERING PUMP OR HOSE HAS NO SET TIME OR MILEAGE TO FAIL WHEN THEY WEAR OUT THEY WILL FAIL ANY TIME.I WOULD HAVE POWER STEERING HOSE REPLACE FIRST.IF YOUR STEERING WAS NORMALWORKING GOOD BEFORE HOSE RUPTURE NO NOISES OR HARD STEERING.REPLACE POWER STEERING HOSE.BECAUSE POWER STEERING PUMP AND RACK PINION UNIT GOING TO COST RIGHT MUCH.ALSO BY IT BEING A IMPORT.
This does not solve your problem, but perhaps power in numbers will help. I have had 2 steering racks replaced on my 2006 TL. Acura is not claiming any defects, but the steering is extremely difficult to turn. Hardly even feels like I have power steering. I'm upset because I had to pay for the 2nd rack just 14 months after the 1st one was replaced. I expected more from the Acura brand!
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