Hard top convertible rattles when if up position. How can i fix that ?

replace the rubber strips at the top of the door
they get hard and allow movement of the glass

If the converter isn't rattling inside, you can
work on the heat shield rattle, outside it on top

this may mean your catalytic converter is broken and the rattle from the exhaust hanger that could have broke when the catalytic converter was struck by hitting a speed bump too hard or a curb.

I believe I have the same problem with my 2006 Ody does your rattle when you accerate?

sounds like your cat converter has broken up and is now plugging you exaust.turn off engine crawl under truck and bang on cat converter with piece of wood if it rattles cat is bad. but dont just replace it because something caused it to go bad,number one reason of broken cat is a hard missfire so if runs rough fix that first.number two reason is to rich fuel mixture is it burns the eyes smells bad or has black soot or smoke coming out the tailpipe fix that first also.

It could be the heat shield from the Catalytic Converter has corroded off and just sitting on top of the Catalytic Converter. Common to happen and the simple fix is just to take it off till you have to replace the whole Cat. Good luck and hope it's just that for a simple fix.

If O2 sensor is bad it can cause Rough running. Are you sure it is the O2 sensor ratteling? Have you taken it out to hear Rattle? Is it loose? I have not Hears an O2 Sensor rattle. I have heard Converters Rattle. over time Inner Material of converter will Not have a tight fit due to heating and cooling. expanding and contracting. carses some of the material to wear away. Causing the it to rattle. and can cause rough running also.

HYDRAULIC PUMP/MOTOR ASSEMBLY Any diagnosis of the power top system should begin with the use of a scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures Information. The scan tool can provide confirmation that the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus is functional, that all of the electronic modules are sending and receiving the proper messages on the CAN data bus, and that the power top motor is being sent the proper hard wired output by the driver window regulator module.


NOTE: The convertible top system is equipped with a hydraulic bypass screw that is used to relieve pressure from the hydraulic system in the event that the top must be manually raised or lowered (such as a low battery or a convertible top operating concern). Always verify that the bypass screw is tight in the pump housing prior to replacing a hydraulic pump/motor assembly (Refer to 23 - Body/Convertible Top - Standard Procedure). If the power top is completely inoperative and the hydraulic pump/motor assembly is suspect, perform the following:

(Refer to 23 - Body/Seats/SEAT BACK - Removal).(Refer to 23 - Body/Convertible Top/ASSEMBLY, Hydraulic - Removal). If not OK, use a scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures Information to complete diagnosis of the power top system.

On convertible vehicles, the convertible top switch is hard wired to both window regulator modules by the Power Top Switch Mux circuit. When a top operation input is received by the driver window module, it will ground the respective relay control circuit which in turn will operate the motor. If the convertible top switch is pressed and held to the down position second detent, it will command both modules to drop all windows to the fully down position. The windows cannot be raised when the convertible top switch is in the top down position. When the switch is held in the top up position and all four windows are fully up, the modules will lower the respective front window 40 mm (1.6 in), lower the respective rear window approximately 55 mm (2 in) and the driver window module will ground the top up relay control circuit. Once the top is back up the windows will not raise automatically.

Your missing that you don't have a clue on how the electronic's on your vehicle work . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop . Your trying to fix something you have no clue on how it works , going at it blind .

I bet its just a the heat shield on the catalytic converter. Subaru uses very thin metal and the heat shield is bolted as opposed to welded together. This rattle is extremely common on subys.

mrmopar is right that you should replace it.

however there is a quick fix that will stop the noise. Go pick up a 6" stainless steel hose clamp at the hardware store. put the hose clamp around the cat. It should be obvious whats loose when you look under the car.

if you are a little handy its not a hard job to do your self. Just 4 bolts. You can get a catalytic converter for $200 online. Get the gaskets too. shouldn't take more than an hour or two.

You will need to put the car on jack stands or rhino ramps to get access. Once you are under the car, the parts are easy to get to.

Always, always chock the tires when your under the car. You do not want a car to fall on you.

IT COULD BE A EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD ALOT OF TIMES IF THAT IS WHAT IT IS I JUST REMOVE THEM IT WONT HURT ANYTHING CHECK ON TOP AND BOTTOM OF YOUR CATALYTIC CONVERTER