SOURCE: blower motor does not work
I had the same problem, replace, replace, replace. Check, check and recheck. What I found was the blower motor resistor, located in the blower squirrel cage area, two prongs and a curly wire, was bad. Took the new one back, (it ohmed out okay, continuity ok, all ok!) replaced it with another, and Bingo, problem solved. Frustrating to say the least. After two relays and a blower switch, and test, test and retest. It was a faulty resistor. Made in Mexico. And no guarentee, even though new, it works. Trial and error. Even the dealer parts are Honcho en Mexico. Thanks NAFTA. You gonna make us all welfare babies.
SOURCE: Heater Blower won't work
There was a bulletin reguarding water contaminating the blower motor, which overheats the blower resistor and renders it inoperative. The fix was to replace the blower and the resistor and seal the culprit hood cowl screw at the base of the windshield, which is the second screw from the passenger side. They say water drips off of it down into the fresh air opening.
Here's what I'd do: Assuming your switch and blower motor is good, replace the blower resistor. Remove the blower motor and see if it spins without any excessive drag. If it's okay, reuse it. If it's dragging, it will overheat your new resistor in a short period of time and you'll be back at square one. The blower resistor is mounted to the front of the case with 2 screws to the left of the blower motor. Remove the glove box and you'll see it.
The Hood cowl screw is straight down into the cowl, the second one from the right side, about 10-12 inches from the right fender. Pull it out, put some sealer on it, and reinstall it.
SOURCE: I'm working on 2000 chev S10 pickup. the blower
did you remove and inspect the blower motor resistor - a bad one can stop the blower and make for some hot wires
Replace the resistor. I know you say you tested it.
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