After installing a new AC, charging system and checks out good,cold air. Next moring zero electrical in car. Zero power from battery although battery checked out as good. Please advise

Thoroughly clean battery contacts and cables and reinstall and tighten properly.

You have a short somewhere in electrical system of truck that is slowly draining battery. When battery is too low, cranking speed and voltage is too low to operate electrical system to allow fuel etc to start truck. First make sure dome light is not staying on after you close door. Sometimes a kneecap hits the dash switch that turns on domelight. Second make sure battery is FULLY charged. Have auto store check battery to see if it is fully charging. At same time they will check to see if alternator is not malfunctioning and charging correct amount. Replace as needed. If all checks out OK...Third, get an amp meter, remove negative battery cable. Attach one probe to the negative cable and other to negative post on Battery. Turn amp meter on. It should read zero. If reads anything it is showing you have short in system. With meter hooked up this way(I use radiator clamps to secure probes to post and cable) Start pulling fuses first, one at a time, then relays in fuse box to until meter goes to zero. When goes to zero you have found the circuit. Look at fuse box picture in owners manual that came with truck. Replace relay or relay connected to the circuit shown in manual. For instance if fuse you pulled to make it go to zero...says it is for wipers and windows...look at manual diagram and locate and replace relay for wiper or windows one at a time, then check amp meter to see if battery drain continues...If you can't locate source of problem you have at least identified circuit. You can get all data schematics at library from ALLDATA free....then try to track down further...if not able to do yourself take to GOOD auto shop that does electrical work. OR.....buy at hardware, auto parts store or Wal Mart....Red wire at least 6ft long. one Toggle switch, get inline fuse connector and a matching fuse that matches the fuse you pulled out that makes amp meter go to zero( If 5 amp, get tubular 5 amp fuse for inline connector)...buy electrical wire connectors kit. Make two 3 ft long wires. Put connector onto both wires and screw tight onto toggle switch. Now cut one wire in half and splice inline fuse onto that wire with connectors. Next make a one prong connector for each end of wire. Carefully make it so you can plug one connector of wire into the left side of where fuse used to plug into fuse box. Then plug in other wire into right side of where fuse use to connect when plugged into fuse box. use electrical tape if need be so they cannot short across these two wires. Check with amp meter on neg cable and negative batt post to see if meter shows drain. If shows drain... simply switch toggle switch off. Meter should be at zero with toggle switch one way, then shows drain with other. Secure wires with plastic tie straps electrical tap, and duct tape the toggle switch to lower dash board area you can reach while driving. If your wipers or windows etc, aren't working with switch shutting off drain, simply turn on when needed and shut off when you park truck. Recheck with amp meter again when all secure...Good luck all!

if the bridge (three diode that turn AC current to DC in alternator) is bad it causes internal draw

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I doubt it "froze up" but it could be dragging from excessive wear. Engines and electrical systems require alot more power to crank in cold weather. Twice as much at zero degrees as needed at 32 degrees.

Most probably the alternator brushes are worn.
My second guess would be either the alternator's voltage regulator or bridge.

Although the computer said "charging system failure", you were able to drive the car, but all the electrical systems (headlights/taillights, power control unit, injectors, ignition etc) were powered by the battery current instead of the alternator current. The alternator wasn't able to recharge the battery and power the devices due to its failure.

After a couple miles you've discharged the battery to a point where its voltage was insufficient to power the instrument cluster (thus the speedo and fuel meter went down to zero). The engine's computer, injection, ignition and, let's call it "airbag controller", are far more critical for the passengers' and vehicle's safety and therefore were still able to work despite the battery voltage being so low. But some time later the battery was discharged to the point it was unable to power these most critical devices and the engine stopped.

It sounds like you have a ground issue near the transmission. Make sure the ground strap above the upper radiator hose is booked down good. Also check the plugs on the transmission for a loose connection.

It is normal for batteries to lose a good deal of their power due to cold temperatures. If you want better starting power, try using a battery charger/maintainer overnight. It should charge at no more than 2 amps. The slow trickle charging overnight will charge and warm up the battery and allow it to develop full power for a cold morning start.

There should be a fusible link in that circuit.

you may need to have the freon charged. although its full doe snot mean it is charged. also try buying new hoses for it that are more heat resistant becasuse the hot weather