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Summer Lindstrom Posted on Sep 01, 2015
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2006 Jeep Liberty: just replaced pass. front wheel bearing- and bled brakes. Now traction control is barely letting me drive 10 feet before going off. The TC light on the dash comes up, and flashes.

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Randy Ohler

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  • Jeep Master 14,585 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 02, 2015
Randy Ohler
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Joined: Jun 13, 2010
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Pull the plug off the wheel bearing. Turn the key on and check for 5 volts at the plug. No voltage, the wire usually breaks close to the plug. Check the plug with an ohm meter. At the plug and about six inches back. Ohms OL, repair the wire. Power at the plug, you bought a bad wheel bearing. The sensor is built in.

5 Related Answers

Carlos Rojas

  • 119 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2008

SOURCE: 2001 olds ABS and traction control sensor issue

An ABS sensor DOES affect the traction control system. Traction control uses these sensors to determine if a wheel is losing traction. A bad sensor will cause both the ABS and TRACTION lights to come on.
The CHECK ENGINE light however is going to be a seperate problem.

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Anonymous

  • 783 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 05, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis brake and ABS dash lights on and off

The red brake light is the key here. That usually indicateds a hydraulic problem. Check you fluid level in master cylinder and see if it is low. Also the level indicator sensor there in the master cylinder maybe sticking or corrioded. If ABS sees the red brake light it will shut off and turn on the ABS light,also traction control would be disabled as well.

Anonymous

  • 478 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: how to change front brake pads on a 2004 jeep

Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper. Remove caliper, remove pads from it. Use an 8 inch vise and an old pad to press cylinder back into caliper. Reassemble in reverse order.

Anonymous

  • 18 Answers
  • Posted on May 04, 2009

SOURCE: after replacing the left front wheel bearing on a 2003 ford focus, the abs and traction warning light stay on

The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.

Anonymous

  • 114 Answers
  • Posted on May 07, 2009

SOURCE: ABS TURN LIGHTS COME ON

need to get abs codes read. it will tell you what wheel to look at.
1.bad wheel bearing, sensor is part of bearing.
2.broken wires to sensor.
3.traction control part of abs

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the part time only shifts on dirt or ice.
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I have a 2010 jeep liberty my abs light is on, 4serv light is on, and no 4wd

you need to make brakes good first. first.
then scan the ABS for errors.
or you will never fix this.
i can make a list of 20 things, what would be the point.
even wrong sized tires.

get it serviced,
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Sounds like a "WSS" (wheel speed sensor) problem. Each wheel has one. Located on the backside of each hub, between the brake disc and hub bearing. Check for loose connector first. Wire damage? Wiring touching exhaust pipes or rubbing wheel or tire? Look for mud or debris or damage to the sensor's or the rotating sensor ring. ( has a lot of "teeth") Try driving in reverse, in a straight line 25 to 30 feet, then drive forward twice that distance. If that does not clear the warning lamps most auto parts stores can hook into your computer (usually for free) and determine which sensor(s) have an issue. Replacing these sensors is common and simple. Let me know if this helps!

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You must have a piston stuck in one caliper, and it's not releasing the pressure off your brake pad.
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