Battery was disconnected and I need the code to the radio. It's a Concert II radio and the vin #TRUTX28N421007895. The code has been taken out of the manual.
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There are 2 types of GM Theftlock, Theftlock I and Theftlock II. The
Theftlock I is found in pre 2000 vehicles, and Theftlock II is in the
later models.
Theftlock I - Uses a volatile user settable code that is input through
the key pad on the front of the Radio. If the power is lost (dead
battery etc.) the code is gone and must be re-entered for the radio to
work. But with the correct procedure the owner can unlock it.
Theftlock II - Uses an EPROM (erasable/programmable read only memory) or
a PROM (the difference is you can not alter the prom once it is
programmed).
In either case the code is burned in and holds even when the power is
lost. With Theftlock II the radio is married to the vehicle by way of
the VIN. When the vehicle is started the computer compares the number in
the radio with the VIN in the body control module. If they match, the
radio works, if not the radio displays LOC and you are finished, there
is no easy way around it. The radio will not work until you make a trip
to the dealer.
The dealer will use a TECH 2 scanner to change the VIN stored in the
radio. The radio does not need to be removed (for the serial number or
any other nonsense). The technician just plugs into the computer and
resets the VIN in the radio.
Thank you for using fixya, you can try removing the fuse to your radio for 5 min and reconnect it. This will reset the radio back to default and re-read the Vin number to the PCM to match with the radio. At most time this will get your radio working again and all you have to do is to re program the pre-set and clock.
There are 2 types of GM Theftlock, Theftlock I and Theftlock II. The Theftlock I is found in pre 2000 vehicles, and Theftlock II is in the later models.
Theftlock I - Uses a volatile user settable code that is input through the key pad on the front of the Radio. If the power is lost (dead battery etc.) the code is gone and must be re-entered for the radio to work. But with the correct procedure the owner can unlock it.
Theftlock II - Uses an EPROM (erasable/programmable read only memory) or a PROM (the difference is you can not alter the prom once it is programmed).
In either case the code is burned in and holds even when the power is lost. With Theftlock II the radio is married to the vehicle by way of the VIN. When the vehicle is started the computer compares the number in the radio with the VIN in the body control module. If they match, the radio works, if not the radio displays LOC and you are finished, there is no easy way around it. The radio will not work until you make a trip to the dealer.
The dealer will use a TECH 2 scanner to change the VIN stored in the radio. The radio does not need to be removed (for the serial number or any other nonsense). The technician just plugs into the computer and resets the VIN in the radio. Thank you for using Fixya and you may want to try pulling the fuse to your radio for 2 min and then reinstalling it. This may reset your radio and have the ECM recognize the radio matching VIN number to the Trailbalzer.
There are 2 types of GM Theftlock, Theftlock I and Theftlock II. The Theftlock I is found in pre 2000 vehicles, and Theftlock II is in the later models.
Theftlock I - Uses a volatile user settable code that is input through the key pad on the front of the Radio. If the power is lost (dead battery etc.) the code is gone and must be re-entered for the radio to work. But with the correct procedure the owner can unlock it.
Theftlock II - Uses an EPROM (erasable/programmable read only memory) or a PROM (the difference is you can not alter the prom once it is programmed).
In either case the code is burned in and holds even when the power is lost. With Theftlock II the radio is married to the vehicle by way of the VIN. When the vehicle is started the computer compares the number in the radio with the VIN in the body control module. If they match, the radio works, if not the radio displays LOC and you are finished, there is no easy way around it. The radio will not work until you make a trip to the dealer.
The dealer will use a TECH 2 scanner to change the VIN stored in the radio. The radio does not need to be removed (for the serial number or any other nonsense). The technician just plugs into the computer and resets the VIN in the radio. Thank you for using fixya and keep us posted.
There is no actual "security code" in the radio as in past model years. The newer theft deterrent system utilizes the class 2 serial data to determine if the radio is in the appropriate vehicle...in other words it compares the VIN it has stored in it's memory with the VIN of the other modules (body control and PCM) in the vehicle to "check" to see that it's in the correct vehicle.
Each time the radio receives the "run" power mode message, it compares the VIN information it has stored to the VIN information received from a module on the class 2 serial data circuit responsible for transmitting that information. If a mis-match occurs, the radio display will indicate to the user the radio is locked. Once this takes place the radio will not respond to any buttons/commands and becomes inoperative. But the dealer can reestablish the radio into a different vehicle with a scanner. There are 2 types of GM Theftlock, Theftlock I and Theftlock II. The Theftlock I is found in pre 2000 vehicles, and Theftlock II is in the later models.
Theftlock I - Uses a volatile user settable code that is input through the key pad on the front of the Radio. If the power is lost (dead battery etc.) the code is gone and must be re-entered for the radio to work. But with the correct procedure the owner can unlock it.
Theftlock II - Uses an EPROM (erasable/programmable read only memory) or a PROM (the difference is you can not alter the prom once it is programmed).
In either case the code is burned in and holds even when the power is lost. With Theftlock II the radio is married to the vehicle by way of the VIN. When the vehicle is started the computer compares the number in the radio with the VIN in the body control module. If they match, the radio works, if not the radio displays LOC and you are finished, there is no easy way around it. The radio will not work until you make a trip to the dealer.
The dealer will use a TECH 2 scanner to change the VIN stored in the radio. The radio does not need to be removed (for the serial number or any other nonsense). The technician just plugs into the computer and resets the VIN in the radio. Thank you for using fixya and good luck. you might get luck by removing the fuse toy our radio for 5 min and reinstalling it, this will reset the radio to default and all you need to do is reset the clock and radio presets.
IMPORTANT NOTE: You must have the security anti-theft code for yours Audi Concert radio from the car manufacturer! For Audi Concert the sequence of programming is: 1. Push simultaneous "SCAN" and "RDS" keys until on the screen will appear "1000" displayed. 2. Release keys. No more push on "SCAN" and "RDS" keys because otherwise number "1000" will be considered as first safe code attempt. 3. By the #1 key you will set up the first safe code digit. 4. By the #2 key you will set up the second safe code digit. 5. By the #3 key you will set up the third safe code digit. 6. By the #4 key you will set up the four-th safe code digit. 7. Then push again simultaneous "SCAN" and "RDS" keys for confirm this safe code. On the screen will be displayed "SAFE" notice. Release keys! For few seconds a radio frequence will be displayed. The radio is now ready for use!
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