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sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
guys have you checked for a vaccum leak????? there is a little plastic ball with a vaccum line going to it that controls the outside air coming in. check for a leak in this line
Sounds like your temperature actuator is not moving or your temp door is broken. On max a-c ,coolant is shut off to your heater core allowing only cold air in.
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check if the ac indoor unit is above 6ft if so it will not regulate as the cold air will not get high enough to make the thermostat work
another possible reason is that the thermostat has failed
get out a technician to do a proper diagnosis
? 2:25
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eqf-H3COtSo
Nov 4, 2013 - Uploaded by 2CarPros
My problem in my 2004 chevy tahoe is that it will not blow out of the dash or ... onto the vent door gears ...
forums.edmunds.com > Chevrolet > Chevrolet Suburban
Jul 20, 2010 - 30 posts - 16 authors
I just don't get why that doesn't work right in the first place. ... I have 99 Yukon that has a problem with the front air. .... $55,000 for my GMC, I guess expecting cold air when we push A/C and getting 90 degree blast ... 2001 Yukon XL 1500 Front heat & air fine, rear ac blows hot as if heater is on in all settings.
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you must listen when changing the temperature from cold to hot to see if you can hear the heater duct opening & closing,if not could be a vacuum hose is disconnected or broken,or the vacuum motor that moves the duct door has broken you might hear a hissing sound,or a cable has broken,I don't think it's a fuse ,because it's working when you turn it on,those are good possible causes I have given you have fun & I hope you have small hands,limited space acess
Common question on this site. On late model cars, the vents are controlled by blend door motors. Small electric motors open and close doors to direct air flow. Chances are you have a blend door that is stuck or a failed motor. The default position is the defrost to make sure the windshield is always clear. Someone will need to look behind the dash to see if all of the doors will move on demand.
It seems to me if your heater core is hot, and the fan blows cold air, then your ducting is closed off. Try and see if your duct door is opening up. You say you changed out your controls, but it sounds as though it wasn't your controls that were bad, but what they control is not opening up.
It's all well and good that the heater core is getting hot, but if the fan cannot deliver that hot air passing through it, then walah.
It has to be an air duct obstruction. Either the ducting is collapsed, the duct door is not opening, or you have some obstruction blocking the ducting. My guess, because that is all I can give you without seeing for myself, is that the linkeage or solonoid that opens the duct door is not working. Older cars had a cable, but I believe newer use a solonoid to operate the opening and closing of the door. The door is there so you don't get the heat from the core when you are using AC.
Hope this helps.
You have dual zones that are controlled by temperature actuators the passenger side has lost its memory or has gone bad you can put it in self programming by disconnecting the battery for ten minutes then hook it back up start the truck turn the temperature control on but do not touch any other controls let it go thru the self programming for about 6 to 7 minutes then select your temperature you want if it still does not work properly you may have a bad actuator or a bad connection at the actuator
Turn your AC off.
Turn the car off
Crank the car
turn ac on drivers side to 60
passenger side to 90
press auto
wait 1 minute
turn AC off (very important)
turn car off
turn car back on
switch driver's side 90 passenger 60
press auto
wait one minute
turn AC off( very important)
turn car off
turn car on
AC 70 both sides
press auto
your ac should be blowing cold
If not, you have an expensive problem
Please check for any blockage and in the ac duct, IF the duct is clean you need to refill the AC gas and get it serviced as the AC thens to weak over the years ........................
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