Replaced outer front end rods and didnt put pin back in and the top of tire leans away from car and bottom of tire leans inward like under car can this cause harm

You now need to have the front end aligned.

Could Be many factors wheel bearings etc was the tires high speed balanced? Check inner outer bearing and tie rods etc !! More Info Please!!

If you put new rotors you need new brakes as well the other thing to check is the inner and outer tie rods to do that get the front tires off the ground grab the front and back of the tire on the tread have someone look at the inner and outer tie rods as you move the tire back and forth if the tie rod does not move it is wore out you can also look at the sway bar pins and make sure that they are not broken

probably a tie rod end issue, and you definitely need an alignment bad. sounds like you might have bent something as well

First, are they slanting inwards at the top, or towards the front?
If your tires are slanting inwards like you are turning the car (the front is facing in more than the back when they should be facing straight forwards ... like it's pigeon-toed) then you have an alignment problem. For this you will have to go to a mechanic who can do alignments and they will straighten it out.
If the tire is slanting inwards towards the top of the tire, there are a few issues that could be the cause ...
1. Jack up your SUV so one of the front tires leaves the ground. Grab the tire and push on the top and then the bottom of the tire (above and below the rim). If the tire moves when you push on it, the tie rods or tie rod ends are probably shot. This is a piece of the steering system, and tends to be one of those parts that every car eventually has problems with. If you do not work on your own vehicle very often I recommend taking it to a mechanic to have these replaced since the steering system is so vital to your safety while driving. If you DO most of the work on your own car, and have a lot of experience with it, you should be able to pick up tie rod ends at any auto parts store. While you are there, I recommend getting a Haynes manual for your vehicle -- it will have exact directions on how to change out the tie rod ends, with pictures and all that goodness. If you ever have future problems with the car that you want to fix, this manual will almost always help you get it fixed.
2. If your tire does not move when you check the tie-rod ends, but the tire is still slanted inwards, take a look at your springs and shocks or struts. If the springs are broken or fully compressed when the car is sitting on the ground, then you have to get the suspension pieces repaired. This I HIGHLY recommend taking to a mechanic, even if you DO know what you are doing most of the time. The springs would need to be compressed using a special tool, and if the procedure is done wrong, the springs can shoot off of the compressors and either kill you or cause MAJOR damage to your stuff -- a friend of mine almost died when one of his spring compressors broke ... the spring ended up bouncing around his garage for about 20 minutes, destroying everything it hit, while he hid under the car. Fortunately he survived with no injury, but his garage and car were both totally destroyed in the process).
3. If the springs are not fully compressed while the Bronco is sitting on a flat surface, then it might be the shocks / struts. The only difference between a chock and a strut is that one is in the center of the spring, the other is located right next to it. Make sure that the rubber pieces on your shock/strut are in good condition, and that there is no fluid leakage. If these are broken, I recommend taking your bronco to a mechanic, because as above, these are very dangerous parts to replace if you don't know exactly what you are doing.
The only other issue that I can think of off the top of my head that would cause your tires to slant inwards is loose lug nuts ... but if it is happening on both front tires this is VERY unlikely. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight or your tires might fall off while driving.
If you have recently swapped out the engine in your bronco for something much bigger, then you might have put more weight on the front suspension that needs to be accounted for ... and none of the above solutions will fix it. For this, you need to upgrade your front suspension to account for the extra weight -- this would require a specialty store, and after-market parts (like a lift kit).
There is also a VERY small chance that you have 2 bent axles ... but if both front tires are slanting in at about the same angle, 99.999% chance that this is not your problem. If it is just one tire that has this problem, then you will probably notice a strange bounce while driving, and this is a more likely scenario ... but I really don't think it's that.
If none of these solutions work ... please put a bit more info about your issue and I will see if I can help some more. If you were able to include a picture of the vehicle that shows how the tires look, that would be a great help. Best of luck .. and be safe if you do the work yourself.

Hello alt.... There are several possible causes.


1. Test drive the car. Start with the windows down. Find a parking lot or somewhere relatively quiet so the noises can be heard. Drive straight at 20 miles per hour and lightly apply the brakes. Listen for squealing, rubbing or grinding; this would indicate worn brake pads. Slow the car to 10 miles per hour and make a sharp turn in both directions. If you hear a clicking noise, the CV joints are bad and need to be replaced. If you hear a grinding noise when driving straight ahead slowly, the hub bearings are bad. Come to a stop and turn the wheel in both directions. If a grinding noise is present, the top bearing plate is suspect and must be checked further. Put the car in park and get out. Push up and down on the front end of the car. If a squealing noise is present, the struts or control arm bushings are bad and need further inspection. Take the car home to continue the inspection.

2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.

3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.

4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.

5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.

6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.

7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.

8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.

9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.

10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem

Sounds like you need some front end parts. You can narrow down the parts you may need though. Get a jack and some jack stands and raise the front of your vehicle so the front wheels are off the ground. The first thing I would check is the tie rod ends as this would give you loose steering. Now that your wheels are off the ground, take both hands and grab each side of a front tire and wiggle it side to side. Keep your eye on the other front tire. If you can move the tire side to side at all, even a little bit, and the other tire does not move side to side with it, you have bad tie rods. Locate the point where the tie rod end connects to the steering knuckle at the wheel. The tie rod end will have a rubber boot with a bolt going through with a nut and probably a cotter pin holding the nut in. Now wiggle the tire again and keep your eye on this spot where the rubber boot meets the steering knuckle. If your knuckle moves (even a little) and the tie rod end does not, THAT tie rod end is bad. There are inner and outer tie rod ends. You want to check the pivot point (the place that the tie rod end is connected) on the inner and outer tie rod ends on both wheels. Again, you are looking for one side to move and the other to not move. Even if it only looks like a couple mm, it is bad. There should be NO movement whatsoever. Once you have identified all loose parts by moving the wheels side to side, we can now check ball joints and bearings. To do this is very similar to what we just did only this time we grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to move it back and forth. Pull the top of the tire towards you and push the bottom of the tire away from you then vise versa. There should be absolutely no wiggle. If you do get a little play here, locate your upper and lower ball joints. these too will have rubber boots on them and just like the tie rod ends, you are going to keep your eye on the point where the boot meets the A-arm. If you see any movement here, that ball joint is bad. Now, if your wheel wiggles back and forth but your ball joints are tight (zero movement) then you have issues with the wheel bearings. If you have to replace any tie rod ends you will have to have an alignment done because your toe will be off and you will wear out your tires. When replacing a tie rod end, prior to taking it off, count the number of threads that are visible. You want to leave that same number of threads visible when you install the new one. Keep in mind, this only gets the alignment close enough to get to the shop to have it aligned. Good Luck!!

Locate the tie rod end, and remove the nut that hold it in place.

Using a hammer and prybar, lodge the prybar under the tie rod end, and against something else, and pry up gently from underneath, while striking the area of the knuckle that it connects into with appropriate force. The tie rod end will dislodge. There is also a tool for this, if you'd rather use it. It looks like a tuning fork, and is called a "tie rod remover". Its use is self-explanatory. You can rent a kit to do this from AutoZone or Advance, the rental is about $50, IIRC, and you get your money back when you return the tool.

After having done that, loosen the locknut on the back of the tie rod, and count the number of threads that you have to turn the tie rod end to get it off from wherever it's installed. This is VERY important.

Once the old one is off, thread the new one on EXACTLY the same number of turns. This will ensure that your vehicle's alignment is about as close as you can get it without taking it to an alignment shop. Tighten the lock nut, reinstall the joint end into the hub, and torque the retainer nut. If there was a clevis or pin, reinstall it.

Yes your car has outer tie rod ends.The steel on steel noise could be the metal plate behind your brake rotor could have got bent a little and is rubbing on the brake rotor.

Check the tie rod, tie rod ends, and ball joints for excessive play. Jack up the front on either side and have a helper push and pull on the top or bottom of the tire. Watch the area where the hub pivots on the axle. if both sides check out. with the truck on the ground, have the helper turn the steeribg wheel back and forth about a half turn with the key off. Look for loose outer tie rod ends, and inner tie rod ends.
F-250 4x4 steering componants are pretty basic, If your unsure what to look for then take it to someone that knows how to fix it. Correctly. If you replaced any of the joints. It would be in your best interest to get it alighned.