What could be causing the growling noise coming from the belt driven accessories when the car is idling and not moving?
The car has 80,000 miles on it and it started making the noise a couple of weeks ago. It seems to have gotten a little bit louder, but I still can't pinpoint it.
The obvious first thought is the power steering pump because it changes tones when you turn the steering wheel back and forth, but the fluid level is fine and it has not been leaking. The reason that I am doubting that it is the PS pump is because the noise stops when I turn off the A/C or increase the rpm above an idle. Also, it sounds like it is coming from higher and more centered than the A/C compressor or the PS pump.
A rebuilt PS pump isn't too expensive, but it looks like a bear to change, so I don't want to start trial and error. Any suggestions or things to test?
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I have had similar complaints that turned out to be the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid. The solenoid can get a little weak and air coming in through the intake at certain speeds can cause it to start vibrating. It sets off a moaning sound that resonates through the intake ducts and can get VERY loud. Sometimes it almost sounds like a fog horn.
If this is the type of noise you are hearing, replacing the IAC will fix it.
Other than that, the only suggestion I have is to see if you can get it to make the noise while the vehicle is sitting still. Slowly accelerate the engine speed with the vehicle stopped and the transmission PARK to see if it will make the noise. If the vehicle has to be moving to make the noise, then that eliminates several possibilities like the IAC, fan clutch, pullies, etc.....things that operate the same whether the vehicle is moving or sitting still.
A moving component had come loose, or broken up. If the engine is still running, then its an accessory component, like the belts or components that runs off the belts. For example, these components that are belt driven have bearings. Its possible the bearings are worn out on the AC condenser or alternator. If the noise stops when the vehicle is parked (engine idling), and resumes when you drive, its a worn drivetrain component. Worse-case scenario, one valve spring lift rod had snapped, but this only happens if you had raced (over-tached) the engine.
if over 80,000 miles it could be exhaust system or catalytic converter. If it has been idling rough since you got the belt changed, I would contact the mechanic and just ask. Are the rpm's moving up and down or at all?
Each manufacturer has their own recommendation. Honda says 105,000 miles, Domestic say 60-80,000 . Depending on driving conditions, I would recommend 80,000 for anything. Replace the water pump if driven by the belt and the related components too.
Take all of the belts off for a short run at idle. If the sound goes away it is pulley related, spin each pulley and listen for bearing noise, also check for play at this time.
If the noise does not go away when the motor is driving no accessories you have a more serious problem.
Are you sure the noise is coming from the compressor and not the belt tensioner or other accessories, when you turn the ac on it put more of a load on the engine. If not since the compressor was changed twice was it properly oiled and the clutch turned manually to insure proper lubrication. I am hoping if it is the compressor that the reciever dryer and expansion valve was changed and the ac system was flushed well, to insure no contamination, or blockage damaging the new compressor.
That's a load of **** they are feeding you.The timing chain tentioner has a fault and not tentioning the chian.I think you have done a good thing keeping it on synthetic oil.That causes less wear on moving parts than other oils.
The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.
Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.
At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.
Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.
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