Engine loses power when AC turn on. New plugs/wires/IAC. Clean TB. When I turn the AC off the engine remains in the bogged down, misfiring mode.

A PURE CHINA CAR, NO YEAR TOLD BUT IS FIRST GEN. CAR.
2003 FIRST ONE?
WHAT DOES CLOCK MEAN, i GUESS RPM TACHOMETER ?
WE SAY ENGINE WEAK AND WILL NOT REV. UP.
THE CORRECT WORDS IS ENGINE HAS LOST MOST OF ITS POWER.HORSE POWER.

DUE TO MISFIRING OR LEAN BURN BOGGING.
NOT SURE ME WHAT TAKE ON MEANS(AUSTRALIAN SLANG?)
SO DID NOT CHECK ALL FUSEs FIRST. and SCAN PCM NEXT.
AND CLEAN FILTERS
NO MILES TOLD ODOMETER KM.
SEEM TO ME IF SPARK IS GOOD AND CAM BELT NOT SLIPPING
THE FUEL IS LEAN AND ENGINE BOGS SMOOTHLY
AND IS FUEL LEAN OR WE SAY FUEL STARVATION.
SCAN ERRORS MISFIRE P0300 OR SEE LEAN CODES. FUEL TRIM.
FUEL FILTER CLOGGED
FPR BAD
OR FUEL PUMP BAD.
OR BAD FUEL
OR BAD FUEL CLOGGED UP INJECTORS
IN A REAL SHOP THE FUEL RAIL PRESSURE IS TESTED (A TOOL)
AND NOW WE KNOW WHAT IS UP. (7 TESTS DOWN NOW 1 TOOL)
PER THE SERVICE MANUAL ON FUELING TESTS.

2001 6.0L engine. Suburban? 2500HD
the coolant must be full, no air pockets that cause ETC sensor to lie.
and chev, love to self protect the engine at overfheating
or the ECT telling lies , AIR pocket there = lies.
my scan tool I can watch the ECT full time. even graph it.
all I have are questions, things I see in person fast.
IMMO lamp glowing wrong on dash, IMMOBIlizer? ?????
if yes it cuts the engine is 3 to 10 seconds. by design.
seem spark is good and only fuel wrong is fuel pressure at spec?
or is AIR wrong, all engines must have air to start, or stalls.
air comes 2 ways (old to newer) IAC/ISC or TWB (GM TAC)
TAC IS 3 PARTS (TB/TPS,CONTROL TAC, AND PEDAL TPS.)

6.0L told so the answer. is.
yes this engine is TBW , throttle by wire. see that TB see the huge motor on side of TB well it sticks closed, there is no IDLE air.
scan the PCM yet, see DTC errors, never skip scanning or go broke guessing, the tools is free RIO paid for 1st shop hour labor not paid.
see?
TBW errors, DTC , throttle by wire, errors must not be ignored
and goes to limp home mode or stalls.
or is low fuel pressure;. this too, is a tool for fuel rail pressure at spec, if low can be FPR stuck open or weak pump./
best is scan at the same time as the stall, (real savvy like that)

bad TB motor or bad throttle pedal assembly , the system as up to 4 TPS. (
2 up top, and 2 in the pedal, all cars with TBW , all TPS POT.;s
must agree, or car goes dead or is 20MPY limp home restricted.

so fast right foot fails to save the stall
but if the TB motor is jammed that foot is ignored.
TB = throttle body, all Xyz names here are ASE/SAE standard names./
oops 6.0L has IAC, my tech answer is the IAC is faster than that huge TWB TB motor . so IAC is clogged. lean IAC and TV, throttle valve.
are your cars foot pedals FIXED, (not adjustable option)
who GM has spare TPS sensor for throttle pedal assembly,
nice that, if DTC say any TPS bad it is.
this is the pedal TPS, , TWB TB sensors is there and changed by you, but pedal has one too. I scan first and not go broke throwing parts,
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD .USA truck.
reading cars schematics NOW the pedal has 3 POTs. not 2.
APP 1 TO 3, ) AND TO POTS IN THE TB TPS UP TOP FOR 5 TOTAL POTS.
TBW ,MEANS GM TAC MODULES ALL. TB+TPS + APP)
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2001,silverado+2500,6.0l+v8,1371529,interior,accelerator+pedal+position+sensor,5061

engine stalls AC on.
yes IAC bad is super common but, there are 50 causes.
the other words I do not understand at all
my guess you see and feel enigne misfire.?
well no engine told? ah J100g a engine problem (and EFI)
stalls means engine dies, zero 0 rpm is stalled.(engine goes silent)
if engine power lacks for sure AC and ON.. say so

wiki says
100G 1997-1999 "HC-EJ" SOHC 1295 cc engine 89 PS (65 kW; 88 hp) 4WD
HC-EJ is electronic injected.
the HC has cam timing belt and not one lasted 25 long years
5year/100km is life of belt
if belt is bad power stays low (HP) all the time engine shakes.
base on vast brands of makers of belts
60k to 100k miles is max life. or 160km (meters)odometer readings.
cheap belts go 100km. off fleabay less.(grin)
other causes.
needs new spark plugs.and related parts
air filter packed up , replace
fuel filter easy to find, replaced.
low fuel pressure
bad fuel
injector clogged

Hi this could be an air leak in a vacuum hoses or the hose from the air filter to the throttle body may have a small split and sucking air
it doesn't take much air suck to cause a problem
Good Luck :)Also i must add a possible fuel supply problem or dirty injectors.or possible lack of pressure in the fuel rail.only some of the scenarios but most likely one of them will be the problem.

You might need to give it new plugs and wires! Also check the plenum on top of engine for cracks! That can cause a misfire in cylinders! The plenum on a 3.8 V6 is hard plastic and cracks easy!

sounds like your timing is off. remove your timing cover and check your timing marks.

Possible damaged A/C compressor locking up. Could also be a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC). It is supposed to kick up the engine RPM when the A/C is turned on. If it is not working properly, you will feel the engine bog down a lot when the compressor clutch engages.

I recommend listening to the pump with a mechanic's stethescope to see if the noise you are hearing is coming from the compressor.

The compessor may be going out. I've seen them lock up and you can't even start the engine. and when they do lock up they kill the engine if it's running

does it idle ok? Check your IAC valve.(idle air control valve) Start the engine and turn on the a/c. Does engine bog down? It should remain steady if not the IAC is bad.

My 1998 5.2 Dakota did the same thing... I removed the Idle Air Control valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner and my problem has been fixed (FOR FREE). At the same time I removed the Throttle Position Sensor and inspected it. I have read that running a very good fuel system cleaner in a tank of premium gas will help clean the carbon buildup on the sensors and throttle body. These two sensors are located on the Throttle Body and remove by unscrewing two Torx screws... the entire process took me less than 5 minutes. I know it is called an IDLE Air Control Valve (or solenoid) but my truck also did it while going down the road at certain speeds.

How to Clean the IAC Solenoid:
This is recommended at every Tune-Up to prevent excess carbon buildup on the IAC plunger. In some cases, you'll notice a slightly erratic idle quality. This is the first step in taking care of that problem. IAC = Intake Air Control (Solenoid).

• Remove the Air Hat from the Throttle Body
  
• Disconnect the sensor harness from the IAC Solenoid (Rear of Throttle Body)
  
• Remove the two Torx-25 Screws
  
• Remove the IAC Solenoid (Be careful not to lose the rubber O-Ring)
  
• Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and let it sit
  
• Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner on the tip of the IAC Solenoid and wipe clean (Do NOT forcefully twist or push the plunger - You will damage the Solenoid. Wipe very gently.)
  
• Spray a little bit more Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and wipe clean with a thin/lint-free rag
  
• Reinstall the IAC Solenoid (Make sure you don't lose the rubber gasket on the solenoid)
  
• Reinstall the sensor connector and airhat
  
• Start the engine and let idle for about 1 minute.