What hoses go on the fuel senser and where does it attach to

There may be as many as 2. look around the metal housing where radiator hoses enter the engine. It will be a brass screw-in device with a single wire attached to the top of it. Good luck.

Check for a vacuum leak around the intake manifold.You can use carb cleaner to find the leak the engine rpm will change when it sucks in the carb cleaner.Most likely its the intake manifold gasket but make sure to check all vacuum hoses.

Doesn't have one it does have a mass airflow senser and it's in the air intake hose on top of the air filter box. If the hose to the throttle body leaks in any kind of way ( attached hoses off or leaking cracked hose your gat Map codes the the airflow senser isn't getting full flow and theirs a problem that needs corrected check everything before changing the senser though as it's expensive and the senser is'nt returnable if your wrong.

The auto stutdown relay will turn the fuel pump and fuel injection system off. This relay is marked in the underhood fuse relay panel. The senser that it may be shutting down for may be the coolant temperture senser. There might not be anything wrong with the senser as the therostate could be stuck and the cars overheating ( at the senser). There's an air charge temperture senser too and itr's screwed into the air cleaner housing or hose and if it gets too hot, or reports faulsely that it's too hot it'll shut down. But let's say that it's not too hot and the coolant is full and the cooling system is working right ( the readitor fan comes on when it's hot and shuts off as the fan brings the temperture down low enough that the fan is'nt needed. ) Their are parts in the ingtion that'll do this too. the coil. the computer, the distrubuter pickup and the crank and cam sensers. These things if they drop out won't nessarily turn the check engine light on but, will show on a licve time scanner as not putting a singnal out as they arn't working. The fuel pump can overheat as if the fuel filter may be partly clogged andf the pump is trying too hard to make pressure and the pump finally gets hot enough to stop. If the check engine light is on with the engine running it's likly that the codes stored in the computer will give a good ides as to why it's shutting down.

This code refers to fuel system malfunction. Fuel trim can go beylond the limits of the computers to tune the car for alot of reasons. the most common reasons that will go away are (1) you changed to differnt gas and the computer couldn't adapt to it fast enough and it turned the light on ( theirs nothing wrong with your car) try to run your car on the same fuel to avoid this problem and this is true with all cars and trucks even older ones. (2) any kind of tuneup problem, ( not changing the oil, Air filter, Antifreeze, on a timly basic) (3) A senser failed ( you noticed that this is third) Cars don't fail as much as thier owners adbuse them ( forget to do basic servives on time) The primary oxagen senser reports this problem to the computer but it only fails if the car has lots of miles, or the wrong fuel is run in it. Mazda sensers are very good and therefore they cost alot to change and the computer is so sensitive that an aftermarkey( parts store ) senser may cause more harm than good. If you don't have a true scanner, ( not a code reader ) then you need to hire this senser dianosic done so you don't change unnessary parts. ( example lets stay it has a bad plug wire and one cyclinder misses just enough to send enough raw gas down the exhuast to make the mixture off. You go changing the oxagen senser and foul the new one with the raw unburnt gas and when you do get it fixed correctly you have to change the senser and get the correct repair also. A bad map senser can do this too even a vacume leak in any hose or evewn a break problem that makes the power break booster use too much vacume. And the list of things that will change the mixture go on and on. Get the code reset and keep an eye on how it runs and how much gas it's useing. the light comes back on tell your scanner operator as much as you can about how it's been running (even real good, and even good gas mileage) your mechanic does'nt what to break a good thing.

Have you checked the ignition module..? If my memory serves me, you should have a module which controls the spark. This can be located anywhere so, if you have a distributor, it should be attached to that, if you have waste spark ignition, the module can be attached under the coil packs or mounted on the inner guard. Without been able to look under the hood, it is difficult to point out the exact location of the ign module..The module controls everything with regard to spark and the PCU only sends timing info to that module, the PCM does not directly control spark.. You may have a security pack issue ( if the vehicle has the security pack fitted) so check that the flashing security lamp is out when you are cranking the engine, if it is on or flashing, then the security pack has not been turned off and you will lose spark and injection pulses..

My first guss would be a fuel pump, just would have to verify that when you first turn on the ignition to crank you can either hear the fuel pump turn on in the tank or not, if you cannot hear the buzz or whine noise from the pump in the tank you need a fuel pump. Fuel pumps are a very common problem with these trucks.

I have the info but I need your motor size.

I am tired of people getting the run around on these engines, and the "Like." This post will be repeatedly posted threw out the world wide web until It ranks number 1 in the google search list when a user googles 4.3 dies, or rough idles etc... For me, "There is absolutely No information on this when the problem occurred for me!." For example, We would not search for "the year the valve covers changed on vortecs" when we keep getting thin ones from a vortec thrown at use. As the Idiots "Humans" we are we would simply search for , "Flat valve cover gasket." In return we would get nowhere.

After we learn the problem, "After" we can then properly search google for the solution. For example the proper term would be, "What year did the vortec valve covers change in?" Walaa. Before hand we was googling for "Flat vortec gaskets."

My point, "You can not google for a solution if you have not already solved the problem."

CHEVY DIES at stop sighns, red lights,Redlights etc. If you are here reading this, Then it is because you have wound up here due to your engine stalling or not starting properly. You googled for a solution and here are some answeres. "Answeres I didn't have" when I had the problem.

These are keywords used to get you here when you googled your problem, Please Excuse them.

Chevy 4.3 vortec Die Died Stop Flud smoke Blue Black White Spark Missfire Code Error 15 43 45 14 OBD Lop Lope Loping Lopeing Surge Surging Surgeing Knock sensor senser light engine problems fault starting heat heating crank crunk run running viberation viberate stall hesitates hesitate fuel filter pump line vacuum vacume oil astro s10 sonoma chevy plug sparkplug distributor rotor button pop cold hot water intake carb EGR valve idle idler cam sputters misses leak hose. when sometimes
will not start
does not start
cant start can't start can not start will not start wont start want start problems starting idle problems.



Some 4.3's have 2 Coolent temperature sensors, Some only have 1. On the engines that contain 2 sensers, One is a Temperature Senser and the other a Temperature Switch.

The Temperature switch Is an open circuit, It closes at a high degree.

The Temperature Senser, It can Advance Timing, De-advance timing, Control your Fuel to Air ratio and much more. 9 Times out of ten if your truck is stalling, its the temperature senser.

Which one is the Senser, which is the Switch? The temperature Switch, Which is the minor of the 2, It has one "Vertical Pin in the center of Plug Housing." It is used only for Plug guidence. The smaller *** close to the center *** is the connector ***. It is where the 1 wire makes contact.

The Temperature Senser, Rather than switch has 2 side by side Vertical Parallel Male Titts. It also has 2 wires.

Some engines Do not have a Temperature Switch, The switch on these are built into a temperature senser, and a switch is not needed.


These are the "Symptoms" of a faulty temperature Senser.
Surging
Loping
Sudden shut offs at stops
Transmissing jerking, Leight or violent.
Missing
Missfiring, Since the senser Does control Timing!
Fluiding, Wrong Fuel to air Ratio, The senser controls that to.

Rings for your Vortec. If you can't find the rings you're lookinf for, Chances are " PERFECT CIRCLE " is the only Brand ring you will be able to find without paying the dealer price. Which Perfect circuit runs around 60 to 70 bucks for the hard to find rings that you thought was impossible to find.

(PVC valve can cause Smoking." And rough idle as well. But loping is mostly due to temp senser.


Vortecs have very few sensors. If any of them go out the BRAIN is "PROGRAMED" to cause a ton of trouble. They are Designed to cause you to spend your money.

Temp Senser, Code 15, Not all BAD temp sensers Shoot a code, Sometimes these Bad sensers Do go under the radar and the error anylizing doesn't work, and give code.

You can not test a Temp senser with an ohm meter, Because at different temps you get a different reading. If you suspect this type of problem make the senser number 1 on your list to replace.

The part is 12 bucks at autozone. $12.00 and you should not pay no more than 35 dollars to have it put on are you are getting ripped off very very very badly, Since that is "More than what its worth" to have it installed.

The vortecs with No temp Switch will have the senser located in the driver or passenger Head. Engines with switch sensers will have the switch on the head, and the senser by the Thermostat duck goose neck, so a hose may have to be removed along with a throttle cable and top breather.

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Spider leaks due to lines or regulator, where regulator is not part of the spider and can be removed, regulator can be purches on the internet threw search engines for 50 bucks. Right clean intake equals bad regulator left equals bad supplie lines.

Supplie lines and clamps can be purchease under 3 dollars, hoses made for gasoline. Ports leak into cylinders.

Some engines have abnormal cylinder locations such as 135 or 153 and 642 or 246. Accorrding to the book of the cylinder locations mines are different. This is abnormal but those engines are out there.

If you're having problems with firing, Cross 2 and 6, then 3 and 5. Doing this will reveal the right locations over time. This can leave you scratchign your head when all you're finding is 1 diagram thats not for your engine.

"The Poppet Valves DO NOT leak inside the intake." What Idiot ever started that. They leak inside the HEADS. The Regulator and Supplie lines leak inside the intake. Rarely do you need a entire "Spider."

Caution, Spider lines are Fragile and will break like glass. Do not bend them any.

How to install Supplie line hoses to the spider. Insert the washers First, Then insert the feed lines. DO NOT insert the supplie lines if they contain a washer already on them, They will not fit. You must first Push the washers Inside the spider, Then the feed lines will go into the spider, and as this happens the washers will slide up onto the lines, This is how it is done. User a lube, Gas or PB blaster Oil or whatever.


IF you run into the store, come back out and your engine fails to start, It's probably your Senser if you can't keep it running. If you manage but it stinks, its probably your spiter. You can also Hear gas leaks inside intake. Cap can be removed to see inside intake, Intake shouldn't be too clean which would indicate gas cleaning.

check for a vacuum leak,you could possibly hear a whistle under the hood,or you can spray starter fluid near the intake manifold where the suspect leak could be and if the engine accelerates it has an vacuum leak,try the simple things first,can also be a clogged PCV valve,it is in the valve cover somewhere and it will have a rather large rubber hose going to the intake manifold