Where is the cold start sensor on Mazda 160i engine mounted?

SOURCE: Audi 80e 1991 hard starting when cold

I've owned the same car. Check that the fuel relay 'primes' the system before you start the car. When you turn the key to the on position (all you dash lights, ready to start) you should hear the fuel pump run for a second or two. If it doesn't run you can replace the relay for about $30. If the relay is not the problem, it may be a check valve within the fuel line to the engine. This valve keeps fuel from draining back to the tank when the car is sitting. That way, there is fuel close to the motor when it's time to start. The temp senor was not a bad shot, they were thinking it was bad sensor not telling the cold start injector to run. Obviously not the case. However, the injector itself may be faulty in some way. As long as the car always starts, it's one of these problems, assuming the ignition system and engine mechanicals are in running order.  good luck. JK

SOURCE: mazda rustler 160i wheel bearings

a had sabe problem in a same model about one year.
i replaced inner and outer cv joint

SOURCE: Mazda 323 wont start until cold

If this vehicle has a distributor, try replacing the pickup coil. This should be located under your distributor cap and is responsible for spark. When your engine compartment gets warm from normal conditions, this plastic piece of **** shrinks and the metal tab attached to it doesn't make a good enough connection to conduct the electric spark to your plugs. Hope this helps!

SOURCE: B 2500 diesel pickup hard start from cold

Hey mate,

I have a Mazda B2200 from 1985, which has the same R2 diesel motor, and I had this same problem, which was exacerbated by the cold of winter....even here in a mild Melbourne.

Each time you turn the ignition on, the QSS (Quick Start System) powers up the glow plugs for about three seconds. This recycles again about three times, then.....nothing. The QSS reckons that you ought to have the bugger running by now!

In my desperation, I located the cable to the four glow plugs, and ran a second wire from the battery (+) via a push-button switch which I installed on the dash. This is my glow-plug BOOST circuit.

Now, when I want to start from c-c-c-cold, I push the button (with the ignition on) for about ten or fifteen seconds, which gives the glow plugs a goodly time to heat up the combustion chamber, and when I hit the starter, she usually fires up with a rattle, and a cloud of grey exhaust smoke.

BINGO!

(Of course, once the motor has warmed up, there is no need to use this BOOST circuit, for the combustion chambers are already hot enough to detonate the injected fuel.)

Have a go at it, as I know that it works!

John.

SOURCE: my 318i bmw 4 cylinder has hard start on cold morn...

possible air mass meter fault or split concertina air hose between airr flow meter and manifold