A rubber hose came out of crimed end that goes to condenser coil all freon escaped what do I do to fix and recharge

Get a recharge kit from an auto parts store. There'll be a rubber line in the kit with a T-handle or a knob on it that must be turned out until the can lid piercing pin is up and clear of placing it on the can. Mount/push this connection onto the can but don't turn the handle in yet. Find the 2 caps on the AC lines and remove the smaller cap. It's black like the one on your tire fill. Only one of the fittings will fit the line. One is too large. The smaller one is the fill line fitting. Attach the rubber line to this fitting, start the engine and now pierce the can with the T-handle/knob so the compressor will suck the Freon into the system until the can is empty. You can use my trick of placing the Freon can in a container of hot water to be sure it empties completely. Now check to see is your AC working. Normally only 1 can will suffice to get the AC working. Too much Freon is just as bad as not enough. Remove the rubber line from the system after screwing the T-handle/ knob back into the canister to close it. Put the cap back on the line and your done. Open the canister back up with the end in a wet rag in case there's a little Freon left in the can, and dispose of the canister properly. Hide the rubber line somewhere for later use. You can purchase the Freon canisters singly now.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.

If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:

•Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
•Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
•If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed at www.parker.com
•Use worm type hose clamps (use double clamps on each end) to attach the replacement hose to the existing pipe.
The locations of the flexible hoses are pictured below.

Your A/C has a very bad leak. That leak will need to be found and repaired for your A/C to hold its charge for more than a day. You can try to find the leak your self. If you watched him add the freon it is very easy now days. Add more, and use a liquid soap and pour a bit on each connection and around the areas where metal ends meet the rubber hoses. Look in front of the radiator at the A/C condenser coil for rock or road debris damage. Other wise take to your mechanic and have him find, fix and recharge the system. Hope this helps Fix Ya up.

Hello,
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Let me explain in layman's terms how the air conditioning (AC) system works and what could be happening to your car.

Like your body, the air conditioning compressor is the heart of the AC system, and Freon is the blood. The compressor pumps Freon throughout the AC system, either the older type R12 which costs as much as gold it seems these days, or the new environmentally-friendly R134A Freon. This Freon is a gas and liquid combination that is compressed and circulated throughout the air conditioning system. The compressed Freon is pushed through the system under pressure and is passed through different sized metal and rubber hoses and a special valve called an expansion valve that cause the gas to expand and contract.

This expansion and contraction makes the Freon gas very cold. This cold gas makes its way via metal lines into the dash area of your vehicle to the evaporator core. This evaporator core is like a small radiator, except it has cold Freon circulating inside and not hot antifreeze. A small fan (the AC blower fan which you control from the control panel on the dash) sits in front of the evaporator core and blows air across this cold evaporator and then through the vents inside your vehicle.

The other objective of the air conditioning system is to remove the heat from inside the cab of the vehicle. This heat is removed by the Freon with the help of the AC condenser located at the front of the car (usually in front of the radiator). The Freon coming back from the evaporator carries the heat from the cab to the condenser via rubber and metal hoses. Just like your radiator, the condenser is lightweight aluminum with many internal winding coils.
The Freon travels through these coils, and in between these coils are small slits or fins that the Freon is forced through. The condenser will have an electric cooling fan mounted in front or behind it to push or pull air through these fins to remove the heat from the Freon. Some vehicles still use the old fashioned fan blade driven by the engine to pull air across the radiator and the condenser.
Now I know that is just a tidbit of information on how the air conditioning system works, and it is very general, but I wanted you to know what to look for to give you insight as to what might be happening with your vehicle.
A few causes of low cooling efficiency or no cooling at all at idle are:

Lack of air flow across the condenser. Make sure the electric cooling fan motor near the condenser is coming on, or in models that are equipped with a fan blade make sure this fan is turning and is turning very fast.

Low Freon levels. Freon level and pressure should be checked by your certified air conditioning mechanic.

Overheating. If the engine is running hot or overheating, it can have a noticeable negative affect on the air conditioning system. Some cars have two electric cooling fans, one for the air conditioning condenser and the other for the radiator. Make sure they are both working properly. Usually at idle on a hot day with the AC on both fans will be on.

When the vehicle is traveling at freeway speeds, the compressor is pumping the Freon throughout the system much faster and harder than at idle. There is a dramatic increase in air flow across the condenser due to 55 mph winds, and the engine is usually operating at a cooler, more efficient temperature as well, thus allowing the air conditioning system to operate efficiently.
Note: An air conditioning system that is somewhat low on Freon can still feel comfortable at freeway speeds due to the added air flow across the condenser which can overcome the ill effects of slightly low Freon. Periodic air conditioning performance checks by your mechanic are the best way to keep the system in great shape.

Hope this helps.

Goodluck

I would suggest checking the wiring that goes from the drivers door to the body (rubber ribbed hose between door and body). Pull back the rubber hose and pull hard on each wire and you will most likely find a broken one that you can repair with a crimp style connector. I see this happen alot on explorers) Sometimes if you take a 2-3" wire of the same size as the broken one and put a crimp connector at each end it makes it easier to do the repair because the new wire adds length and makes it easier to work it(the wire) thru the rubber hose.
Hope this helps!

It causes the discharge pressure to rise very rapidly because it's not being cooled to condense the hot freon when it flows through the coil. By the time the hot freon comes back around to the oraface, it's already in it's gas form and there is no evaporation process or expansion. In essence it causes the system to run at it's least efficiency. Hope this answers your question, good luck!

Try replacing your switch.I got 2000 dodge that did the same thing and it was the switch.

normally it is the line between the compressor and the condenser..the metal to rubber hose connection under the silver wrap..this is a common problem that kia knows about...good luck

The PCV valve is at the end of a plastic or rubber hose which goes into the valve cover,, just pull it off the hose and replace with a new one.

If it's a 4.0 engine, the filter thing is the fuel pressure regulator (does it have a vacuum hose going to a fitting on the intake manifold?) Depending upon how much material (clean tubing) you have to work with the temporary"fix" is just about the same as the real repair. Cut the line, removing the failed part, and install a new piece of steel tubing, using crimp type unions (they have brass ferrules on both ends that seal permanently to tubing once they are tightened. Sometimes you need to remove a decent length to get to a straight clean area (unions are not recommended to be used on curved sections of tubing.
Or, if you can't do this, cut the tubing right over the leak, slip a piece of high pressure fuel line (rubber) over both ends and fasten with two clamps (made for fuel lines, not for water hose applications) Make sure that rubber hose extends at least one inch past the leaking area.That will get you to a shop! Check the regulator. it's doubtful that both the line and reg are leaking.
Good luck