Hard to start in AM but runs good all day when it sits over nite hard to start again Good spark at all times . new tps ,,fuel reg , temp sensor

V6
cranks fast the cranks shaft but engine does no start or run or stay running,
there are 50 causes, !!!! I guess you tied 25 of the 50.
your shop has no idea at all how to test modern EFI cars.! sorry.
not at all , he is a PRO GRADE guessomanicac, and now you are broke $$$$$$$
in a REAL ASE shop they use tools that test for it ALL, NOT GUESSING EVER.
have spark?, no not just 1 cylinder but all must work and not wired backward/. AND 6 hV WIRE NOT CONNECT WRONG ,FIRING ORDER MUST TO KEPT, CHANGE CAP 1 WIRE HV AT A TIME TO NEW CAP
SO TO KEEP DIRECTION AND ORDER CORRECT.
fuses are first all must be good.
EFI can not run a bad engine ever, weak yes bad NO, that be magic.
compressesion at spec or over 150PSI x6 and all equal near.
cats not melted, vacuum test cranked proves that.
EGR not stuck open or it will not want top start, or only sputter like mad.
scan next, the PCm is cutting dead the pump if relay is not energized on purpose. A VOLTMETER TO RELAY PINS PROVES THAT EASY.

the PCM will cut fuel if spark is detected by it to be bad. BY DESIGN.
The same is true if TPS fails and signals Wot ALL THE TIME.
GROUND WIRE TO TPS CUT OFF DOES THAT EASY.

it kicks is wrong dead wrong, it must run for 3 seconds and repeat the spray 3second, and crank then repeat 3 times, hear the engine run until the spray there burn dry so this engine bad.
KICK TO MEAN MEANS NOT RUNNING FOR 3 SECONDS.
EACH TIME TIMED, WE CAN DO IF OVER AND OVER.
IT WILL RUN FOR ABOUT 3 SECONDS, AND WE LISTEN TO IT RUN DOES ENGINE SOUND GOOD? IT MUST OR STOP HERE.
PARK YOU WALLET NOW.

spark good,. timed right? OMG DISTRIBUTOR REMOVED AND NOT PUT IN CORRECTLY TIMED TO TDC 0deg TDC #1 firing, on compression stroke not the exh. stoked, a real tech uses timing light to make sure spark is timed right, not guessing ever on distrib engines.
I bet they now added more parts bad or put in wrong.
now 2 or 3 more problems not just 1.
test spark at the single coil pack, only, pulled from distributor end
lots of techs now never seen distributor in there life or only photos
20 years old.
it must be timed by you,
test the coil first
then do static time as the manual sows
then when running later do the exact timing adjustments at hot idle.
and last FUEL:
fuel is LaST never first of go broke super fast.
ENGINE GOOD, AND SPARK GOOD ALL 6 AND TIMED TO SPEC.
the ECU cuts fuel; many ways.
1: fuseS blowN,
2; IMMO LAMPS GLOWING WRONG OMG NEVER SEEN IMMO ?
3: eCU , SEES SPARK BAD SO CUTS ALL FUEL (ON PURPOSE)
4: TPS BAD (WIRES)_STUCK AT WOT AND ECU CUTS FUEL, AGAIN ON PURpOSE.
5: CMP DEAD CAM SENSOR
6: CPK DEAD CRANK SENSOR.

NOW THAT SCAN TOOL.
CONNECT TOO, KEY ON SCAN IT SEE STORED ERROR
GOT P03XX ERRORS.
CRANK IT FOR 5 SECONDS ,
KEY RELEASED NOW , NOT OFF
SCAN AGAIN ,SEE dTC BINGO.

IN ALL TESTS BATTERY KEPT FULLY CHARGED USING A BATTERY CHARGER, 5-20AMPS RATED,


TELL THEM DISTRIBUTORS CANNOT BE THROWN ON.
EVER.
IT MUST BE TIMED AND SPARK FIRING ORDER NOT LOST.
THE SERVICE MANUAL TELLS HOW, RTM<?
BEST PRACTICE HERE IS
PUT ENGINE CRANK PULLEY AT TDC MARK 0-DEGR. AND #1 CYLINDER FIRING,
NOT EXHAUSTING BUT TOP OF #1 COMPRESSION STOKE
THEN REPLACE THE DISTRIB.
1 WIRE AT A TIME, OLD TO NEW AND SAME HV TOWER TERM
THEN INSERT DISTRIB SO ROTOR POINTS TO #1 TERM HV TOP.
AND LOCK IT DOWN.
good luck not going broke
find a 40 + year old tech that worked distributors back 20years ago
and win.
kids now have no clues.(many) avoid them . find gray hairs, win.

Can I get help 1az no spark by the fan running when it cut off u get a kick bt the fan would come on bk same thing again and again

Could be weak spark from bad coil or ignition module, bad coolant temp sensor, MAF, TPS, clogged exhaust. others.

I know you said you changed all the sensors. Have you looked into the crankshaft position sensor. It can be intermediate when it is starting to fail.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathaniel_9ed79ef078a2f164

It has been parked for about 5 yrs ???? That's not good ! What kind of compression does the engine have ??? Did you drain the gas out of before letting it sit ?

Depress the gas pedal halfway while cranking. If it starts, that's the symptom of a bad engine coolant temp sensor. Makes computer think engine is warmer than it is and PCM gives too rich or lean a mixture making it not fire up

have you changed the spark plugs or cleaned with heat i would change them with new if you can afford it and be 4 putting them in i would crank engine over a few times then take a comparison reading ..if u cant do a reading then i would put several drops of oil in each cylinder put new spark plugs in and try again O when cranking over hold gas pedal all the way down and yes temp sensor can fluid if bad

hello ralph...check the coolant temp sensor. It acts as a choke to richen fuel mixture when cold. If it doesn't work correctly, hard starting will occur. Once engine reaches operating temp, the problem is usually non-existent. also....
Worn spark plugs.
Fouled spark plugs.
Worn distributor cap and rotor.
Old ignition wires.
Low engine coolant level.
Faulty MAP sensor...any of these will effect cold starting....

Good luck...i hope this helps.

If the engine is trying to flood, it will kill the engine. If you have the spider fuel system, it is noted for problems.
If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, also, check fuel injector pulse.
I don't know if this may be a problem? below

The correct spark plugs are very important. Glad to hear you got it fixed good.