Question about 2004 Dodge Durango
Posted by Anonymous on
In the photo is the location, in need.
There may also be a fuseable link in the main power wire to the stereo.
Best of luck to you!
Posted on Jun 16, 2015
Your owner's manual has only one page that discusses fuses; pg 325 unfortunately. It is non-specific. To get more detailed info, you'll have to get a Haynes Manual at Autozone, Pep Boys, or NAPA. A fuse holder may be built in to the wiring harness behind the radio, slightly below the connector and the stereo powered directly from the ignition switch... a bad ignition switch can mean the stereo won't work in the Accessory Position. Fuse boxes may also have an ACC Fuse labeled. This is your power to the stereo. Cigarette lighters use a fusible link which under the dash... not the same thing as a fuse and sometimes difficult to locate.
Posted on Jun 16, 2015
Fuse #12 - 25 amp junction block ( internal ) what ever that means ?
Posted on Jun 16, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It seems that because the diagram for the fuse codes aren't located in the owners manual, it would be a dealer item only. One possible solution is to buy an assortment of fuses.. maybe (15) switch them out 1 by one.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
If your blower only worked on high before it quit, or didnt work on high before it quit,
You probably have a faulty blower motor resistor assembly. The part number is 04885635ab If you look on the bottom of the motor housing on the passenger side (about where the passenger toes would point) you will see a wire harness that is a long oval in shape and has 5 or 6 wires in it. You will need a 7 or 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket with a u-joint attachment. on the firewall side of the connector, there is a sliding lock that keeps the connector on the plug. you will have to slide the lock toward the drivers side and the squeeze a small blak tab to pull the connector off of the plug. Once the connector is off, use the socket to remove the 2 screws. It will drop right down once the screws are removed. Once it is removed, it looks like a 2 inch by 3 inch by 16th of an inch thick piece of metal with a plug on it. The resistor pack dissipates ALOT of heat so do not take it out until the truck has been off for 30 minutes or so. I priced the part at a dealership for $12.77
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
take the bulbs out
you have a door switch not making connection.
or the lift gate, which is the FIRST place I would look
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
1st try to hit the eject button multiple times in a row. If this doesn't work you have 3 options.
1= pull the radio unit, disassemble case, gingerly remove CD, and reassemble.
2=Go to dealer or repair shop and have them remove. If you have a warranty left, mopar should be able to help. Factory radios have been a problem with Mopar for years.
3= Go buy a new CD and forget about it
Posted on Nov 15, 2009
Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE Module Time Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.
Posted on Jul 13, 2010
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