Major oil spill after replacing oil supply line.

How many miles on your vehicle ? Do you see any leak spots on the ground from the truck ? Blue exhaust , oil burning , valve guide seals , piston rings , PCV clogged .

Oil Consumption Diagnosis
Checks
Causes
Excessive oil consumption, not due to leaks, is the use of 1 L (1 qt) or more of engine oil within 3 200 kilometers (2,000 miles).
Preliminary
The causes of excessive oil consumption may include the following conditions:
• External oil leaks
Refer to Oil Leak Diagnosis .
• Incorrect oil level or improper reading of the oil level indicator
With the vehicle on a level surface, run the engine for a few minutes, allow adequate drain down time, 2-3 minutes, and measure for the correct engine oil level.
• Improper oil viscosity
Refer to the vehicle owners manual and use the recommended SAE grade and viscosity for the prevailing temperatures.
• Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage
• Crankcase ventilation system restrictions or malfunctioning components
Refer to Crankcase Ventilation System Inspection/Diagnosis .
• Worn valve guides and/or valve stems
• Worn or improperly installed valve stem oil seals
Refer to Spark Plug Inspection .
• Piston rings broken, worn, or not seated properly
Allow adequate time for the rings to seat.
Replace worn piston rings, as necessary.
Refer to Cylinder Leakage Test .
• Piston and rings improperly installed or not fitted to the cylinder bore
Refer to Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed

i do not know what was done so i would check the oil for a milky color, if yes it has a bad head or head gasket, if no then pressure test the system and confirm it is leaking out then check the entire radiator and all the lines and hoses make sure the hose connections are not leaking at the radiator and drain, the overflow bottle could be cracked or leaking where the drain hose fitting is. One would think if it is leaking that bad it would be visible some where. check the radiator core for pinholes. if ithas tailoring check the coolers and lines for leaks and the cooler for pinholes.

You should perform an oil pressure test and see if the engine is producing oil pressure within specification. If it is, the lifters may quiet down over time.

OVER HEATING COULD BE FAULTY THERMOSTAT.OIL SPILLING OUT SOUND LIKE TURBOCHARGER OIL SUPPLY LINE OR HOSE LEAKING OIL.

It sounds like you are experiencing a problem with the Rochester 2GC carburetor on your 1957 Oldsmobile. The issue you described, where the engine is difficult to restart after it has been shut off for a period of time, could be caused by a number of things.
Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

1. Check the fuel level in the carburetor bowl. If the fuel level is too low, the engine may not start. Make sure the fuel level is at the proper level and that the bowl is not leaking.
2. Check the float level. The float in the carburetor controls the fuel level in the bowl. If the float is set too high, it can cause the engine to flood when it is restarted. Adjust the float level according to the carburetor manufacturer's specifications.
3. Check the fuel pump. The fuel pump supplies fuel to the carburetor. If the pump is not working properly, it could cause the engine to flood or not start at all. Test the fuel pump and replace it if necessary.
4. Check the fuel lines. Make sure the fuel lines are not clogged or damaged. Replace any damaged or clogged fuel lines.

I hope these suggestions help! Let me know if you have any other questions.

OK, anytime oil gets into the cooling system or vice versa, there's a strong possibility that there is a leak at the head gasket.

Could have to do with overspeeding the engine.

The cooling system can get up to 14 to 16 psi, enough to burst into the oil lines which run next to the cooling lines in the head and block.

If it's spilling on the front driver's side of the car, then you have some serious problems with this engine.

Check the oil filter housing and the cooler lines at the housing. The oil filter housing gaskets are good for no more than 15k to 30k miles if your lucky. The lines at the housing are easy to strip out when you reinstall them so take your time if you do it yourself an once you are finished and ready to start the truck, let it run for about 15 minutes and constantly check the area for leaks prior to road testing the vehicle.

This is if you have a carbuerator:



Identification of the mechanical fuel pump inlet and outlet tubes

1. Make sure the negative battery cable is disconnected. Have a metal cup handy to collect any fuel that may spill.
   
2. Place a drain pan under the oil filter, then remove the filter with a strap wrench or equivalent.
   
3. Disconnect the fuel and vapor lines, catching fuel that spills. Dispose of any spilled fuel safely.
   
4. Plug the fuel lines to prevent leaks.
   
5. Remove the attaching bolts and remove the fuel pump.
   

The fuel pump is NOT repairable. It must be replaced as a complete unit. Always use a new gasket when installing the pump and make certain that the gasket surfaces are clean.
To install:

1. Clean the fuel pump and engine block gasket surfaces of all old gasket material or dirt.
   
2. Position a new fuel pump gasket against the engine block, then situate the pump in position over the gasket with bolt holes lined up squarely. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
   
3. Connect the fuel lines to the pump (always start fuel line connections by hand-before using a wrench to tighten) and tighten the fittings to 175 inch lbs. (20 Nm).
   
4. Clean the block surface, check the gasket, then install the oil filter, tightening it by hand only. If the gasket is damaged, replace the filter. Refer to Section 1 for the proper service procedures regarding oil filters.
   
5. Start the engine and check for leaks. Check the crankcase oil level and refill as necessary.
   

Inspect where the oil is leaking from the oil cooler line, it's common for the oil to leak from the remote oil cooler line adapter bolt on the engine block. You can remove the two bolts one at a time and place a oil drain plug washer with some RTV silicon to ensure that it will not leak.

The other common place for the oil line to leak is from where the rubber lines mate to the aluminum line from the remote oil filter line adapter. This is also a simple fix but you're going to need a drumlin tool cut off the old compression clamp that was press fit. Cut off the old compression fitting ring, use cation that you only cut off the ring and replace it with a new compression clamp. Make sure you use compression clamps and not a hose clamp.

This is the best way to fix the oil leak from the adapter line to the rubber hose line, to replace the whole line with the new adapter is expensive and i believe your have to disconnect the engine mount to raise the engine to clear enough room to install the new line along the frame.

Good luck and don't use any engine oil stop leak, it will damage your oil pressure relieve valve and that's one extra thing you don't need to replace.

Okay....this is for the fuel pump:

1. Make sure the negative battery cable is disconnected. Have a metal cup handy to collect any fuel that may spill.
   
2. Place a drain pan under the oil filter, then remove the filter with a strap wrench or equivalent.
   
3. Disconnect the fuel and vapor lines, catching fuel that spills. Dispose of any spilled fuel safely.
   
4. Plug the fuel lines to prevent leaks.
   
5. Remove the attaching bolts and remove the fuel pump.
   

The fuel pump is NOT repairable. It must be replaced as a complete unit. Always use a new gasket when installing the pump and make certain that the gasket surfaces are clean.
To install:

1. Clean the fuel pump and engine block gasket surfaces of all old gasket material or dirt.
   
2. Position a new fuel pump gasket against the engine block, then situate the pump in position over the gasket with bolt holes lined up squarely. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
   
3. Connect the fuel lines to the pump (always start fuel line connections by hand-before using a wrench to tighten) and tighten the fittings to 175 inch lbs. (20 Nm).
   
4. Clean the block surface, check the gasket, then install the oil filter, tightening it by hand only. If the gasket is damaged, replace the filter. Refer to Section 1 for the proper service procedures regarding oil filters.
   
5. Start the engine and check for leaks. Check the crankcase oil level and refill as necessary.
   

It's on the side of your engine block.