Eec engine fuse blowing. is the red injector wires supposed to be reading an engine ground in a continuity test with multimeter?

Probably need an expert on wiring harness ..not a dealer.. just an old school independent shop. Car been sitting too long ..ign parts old n worn also. Buy a haynes manual at parts or library sec629 has chilton repair volumes.

So, it's the injector circuit. There is a 10 amp injector fuse in the fuse block, on left side, 4th one down. Check this fuse. It supplies constant power to both injectors, on the red wire to injector 1, and a white wire splice from this to injector 2. A steady 12 volts anytime key is in on, run, or start. You can check this with a test light or voltmeter. Ground the test light and probe injector connector's red wire on injector 1, and the white wire on injector 2-both should be hot with key on.
This may be why the noid light didn't blink. The noid light must have this steady power signal, and when the computer internally grounds the injector ground circuit for a split second, you get injector pulse-or a blinking noid light.
You can check the ground circuit separately with a test light also for each injector. Place the ground clip of test light on the POSITIVE battery post, and probe the blue (ground) wire on injector 1, the engine must be cranking over, and the test light should be blinking. Do the same for the green wire on injector 2. If the test light is blinking on both ground wires, with engine cranking-the ground circuit is good. You are sending power down the ground wire to computer, and when the computer grounds the circuit, the tester will light up-it will blink because the computer only momentarily grounds the circuit to cause pulsing of the injectors.

Have a short. This procedure may help out. Need test light and volt meter.

1. Disconnect C104 and see if the Red (RD) wire out of the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) (pin 12 and/or 24) is shorting to ground, to verify which side of the connector the circuit is shorted.

2. If the RD wire no longer indicates a short to ground after disconnecting C104, inspect the engine harness feeding the injectors, Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid and Canister Purge (CANP) solenoid for chafing against bare metal on top of the engine.

3. If the RD wire still indicates a short to ground after disconnecting the C104 connector, inspect the harness to the secondary air injection solenoids, EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid, Mass Air Flow (MAF) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for a short to ground.
INFO Tip C104 is a 42-terminal connector located at the rear passenger side of the engine, near the A/C accumulator.

So Jason you need a little experience in electricity to solve the problem. You and multimeter., or a test light. If you have a test light. first you need to check the fuse. 1Put the ignition on, 2 put the test light in a good ground and check all fuses. The test light need to light bright on both terminal of the fuse. If all fuses are good .go on the tell light remove the bulbs check for power in ground. To check power and ground. You need to check a good body ground for the test light. Check power and ground if you find power and ground you need a good bulb check the contact of the. Bulb in the connector. If you don't have power or ground. Use the multimeter to check for continuity on both wire. How to do that. Turn off the ignition, use the a good ground attach the black lid in ground and red lid in one of the pin of the light bulb. Turn on the ignition put multimeter on volt and one of the pin of the bulb connector should give you 12 voltor (OL)the other one turn ignition off put the multimeter on resistance you should have a good ground or out of limit (OL) . If you have OL for one that mean one the wire is open. You need Chase the wire to fix the opening.

It could be a short in the wiring-a bare wire touching metal, but sometimes an injector will go bad and short out blowing the fuse. Try unplugging all the injectors, then put new fuse in and turn key on. If fuse blows again, it must be a bad wire in the injector circuit. Each injector has a power wire and a ground wire, the power wire probably derives from the engine computer, and the ground wire definitely goes to the computer.
If the fuse didn't blow right away, try connecting one injector at a time (key on). If connecting one injector causes the fuse to blow-that is a shorted injector. It will have to be replaced.
If connecting all injectors did not blow the fuse, try the wiggle test on the wires, with key on. You may cause the fuse to blow by wiggling or moving a section of wire, and that is the likely source of the short. Separate the wires and examine them closely. Look for exposed wire, melted insulation, things like that. Look for where the wiring harnesses may chaff or rub against something, may be stretched or stressed. If you still can't find it, you may need to run continuity or resistance tests on each individual injector wire. For that you would need a multimeter, a good digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) at a reasonable price is a necessity for automotive work.

Is it a 4 cyl or V6 - and you are talking about the EEC relay right ?

Both the fuel pump relay and EEC relay are grounded by the computer. The fuel pump relay magnet is powered by the same red wire the injectors are powered by coming from the EEC relay.
The actual power circuits for each relay comes from different fuseable links.
You would need to find out if the relays are being grounded by the computer with the key on, and if they are sending power out.
You might also want to check to see if you get a check engine light when you turn the key on to see if the computer is powered up.

I am going to assume that you verified this by unplugging the injector and seeing constant power across the pins in that connector, and capmparing to the another good injector. if you have not done so. that is your first reading to take with a meter.
a breif description of how it typically works:
nomally, there is a single common for all the injectors. typically, it is a positive signal energised by the ecm/ecu either directly, or via relay. and usually fused. sometimes, on v8, and some v6's there are 2 commons. then, each injector is individually actuated through the ecu.
next test- if you find the common positive voltage, then the other wire should read nothing with the engine not runing. do an ohm check to ground. you will likely find that n4 only is reading continuity on the non-common wire. trace the harness to the main harness plug. it may be a disconnect in the engine bay, at the firewall, or a complete run to the ecm. unplug it. it may require wd-40 and some massaging fennesse. force is not the first answer to pulling it apart, and the clip may not release normally, reqiring a pick in there to unlatch it. if you still have continuity, then you have a short in the harness grounding between the 2 points. if you do not, then trace the wire from the connection point you disconnected, at least 5 inches away. you can do a pinout check, to find the correct wire. test all to verify you have the correct wire and then you will cut this wire, if you know you can reliably re-attach the wires together. before you do this, if it is not at the ecm test the corresponding pin at the other connection you unplugged from, to make sure you are not reading ground continuity (you may need to find the ground pin in that plug, as it may be the same plug that feeds the ecm ground.) then, unplug the ecm, and re-connect the disconnect, if applicable, and re-check continuity. now, you move to cutting the wire, if the ground is only present with the ecm connected. plug the injector back in and turn the key on. if you receive close to common voltage on the injector side of the cut wire and ground on the ecm side, then there is an internal short in the ecm/ecu. if the system uses a common ground, then all of this is inverted, with the positive battery/ign. as reference, not ground

This means you have a dead short, you will need to look around engine area for bad wiring or component, you will need to start disconnecting components under the hood in the engine like injectors o2 sensors alternator , my first test would be to disconnect the small wire to the starter and leave the big one one for now and see if the fuse dtill blows, i have found this to happen when the starter is shorting out inside, if you turn the key and the fuse doesnt blow then replace the starter, remember the small wire on the starter. good day.

You probably have a shorted fuel injector coil or driver transistor. To find the problem, you need an ohmmeter (digital multimeter set to 200 Ohm scale). This test procedure is done with the car shut off.

Remove the connector from one of the fuel injectors. Measure the resistance between the two terminals and write it down. Next, hold the black (common) test lead of the ohmmeter to a nice, clean ground spot (anywhere on the engine is OK) and push the red (+) lead of the ohmmeter into one of the sockets on the injector connector. Repeat with the other socket. Both should read very large or open values. If you get a reading under 1 Ohm on the connector, you have a shorted driver transistor and the ECM will have to be repaired or replaced.

Plug the injector connector back in, and repeat the test with the next injector. If you find an injector with a coil resistance much less than the others, that injector has a short in the coil and it must be replaced. The readings should be within 5% of each other.

If your car has throttle body injection (only one injector), the coil resistance should probably be about 10 to 20 Ohms. I suggest calling the service department at the local Ford dealer and asking what the fuel injector coil resistance is supposed to be.

Do not be surprised if you find the driver transistor is shorted and the coil is also shorted or burned out; if one part goes bad there is a good chance it will ruin the other (a shorted transistor will keep the injector on all the time and overheat the coil; a short in the coil will allow too much current in the transistor and overheat it. If you are having a "not-so-bad" day, the fuses blew quickly enough to prevent the double failure.

sounds like you got a short try tracing harness to see if theres anything visible