I changed the intake manifold gaskets on a 3.4 and now I need a diagram of the vacuum lines and where to put them

This is a vacuum leak causing the oxygen sensors to throw codes or its both sensors or you have an exhaust leak before the sensorsyou say you changed the intake manifold gasket did you change upper plenum and the lower intake or just the top? Ok let's try this take fuel injection cleaner and spray around the intake upper and lower while in drive foot on the brake if the idle changes the leak is there do the same for all vacuum lines

2.0 or 2.5?
here is 2.0
if you need more just let me know

1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then isolate cable end with electrical tape or equivalent.
2. Remove air intake system and fuel line mounting bracket.
3. Disconnect throttle cable.
4. Disconnect coolant line from idle air bypass air valve.
5. Disconnect coolant and vacuum lines from throttle body. Mark vacuum lines for installation reference.
6. Disconnect throttle position sensor connector.
7. On models with automatic transaxle, disconnect idle switch connector.
8. Disconnect brake booster vacuum line from back lefthand side of intake manifold.
9. Disconnect EGR temperature sensor connector, if equipped.
10. Disconnect speed control vacuum line from back righthand side of intake manifold.
11. Disconnect EGR solenoid connectors.
12. Remove PCV valve from cylinder head cover.
13. Raise and support vehicle.
14. Remove intake manifold support bracket, then the EGR pipe from intake manifold.
15. Lower vehicle and remove intake manifold attaching bolts and nuts.
16. Remove intake manifold and discard gasket.

Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence

1. Reverse procedure to install. Torque bolts and nuts in sequence to 14-19 ft lb.

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Yes there are cooling system hoses under the intake, here are instructions to remove the intake.

Instructions

1. Remove the Intake Manifold
   • 1Drain the cooling system and relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the negative battery cable, the air intake duct, the IAC valve connectors, the throttle position sensor and switch connectors, and the EGR solenoid valve.
     
   • 2Pull the EVAP canister vacuum and purge hoses, the vacuum hoses from the EVAP, the brake cylinder, pressure regulator and EGR tube. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. Remove the distributor cap.
     
   • 3. Take out the three left bank injector connectors, the thermal transmitter, the ground harness, breather pipe and the upper manifold. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines and plug them with golf tees to prevent fuel spillage.
     
   • 4Locate the right injector harness connectors and disconnect them as well as the fuel rail and injectors. Remove the coolant temperature switch harness connector and the water hose from the thermostat.
     
   • 5Loose the bolts on the lower manifold in sequence. Remove the bolts and left the intake manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard it.
     
   • 6Clean the mating surfaces by scraping the old gasket material and carbon deposits. Clean the surfaces with solvent and inspect them for damage.
     
   Install the Intake Manifold
   • 7Put a new gasket in place and install the lower intake manifold to the engine. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows: first pass-35 inch pounds; second pass-78 inch pounds and third pass 70 to 84 inch pounds.
     
   • 8Connect the ECT sensor connector, the fuel supply manifold and the right bank injector connectors. Connect the fuel lines and then install the upper intake manifold. Put the breather pipe in position.
     
   • 9Install the intake manifold ground cable, the thermal transmitter, the left bank injector connectors and the distributor. Reconnect the spark plug wires.
     
   • 10Continue reconnecting all the components, reversing the order in which they were removed. Connect the negative battery cable to the terminal. Refill the cooling system with the appropriate coolant.
     
   • 11Start the engine. Check for fuel or vacuum leaks.
     

If you change the head bolts that's the safest bet for trouble free operation. But, I've changed head bolts on Hondas for years and they never stretched. I know this is for a Kia. My best guess is that it's not necessary since the Chilton based manuals don't say to do this.

If the head is torqued down to specifications and it leaks, then I would say, otherwise. Even torque is more important than bolt stretch, especially if the bolts don't stretch so much that the head gasket can't be tight against the head and block.

Ha, you tried to fool me with the bit about a 3.5 L motor--I could find that one...here is the complete procedure from AutoZone.com:




Installation To install:

1. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Be sure to inspect the manifold for warpage and/or cracks. If necessary, replace it.
2. Position the gaskets on the cylinder head with the port blocking plates to the rear and the This Side Up stamps facing upward. Then apply a 3 / 16 in. (5mm) bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear of the engine block at the block-to-manifold mating surface. Extend the bead 1 / 2 in. (13mm) up each cylinder head to seal and retain the gaskets.
   
   Fig. Lower intake manifold tightening sequence-4.3L engines
   
3. Install the lower intake manifold. Tighten the bolts in sequence and in 3 steps, as follows:
   
   
   
   1. Step 1: 26 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
   2. Step 2: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
   3. Step 3: 133 inch. lbs. (15 Nm).
   
   
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   Power steering pump Alternator bracket bolt near the thermostat housing Wiring harness to the lower manifold components, including the injector, EGR valve and ECT sensor Air conditioning compressor bracket-to-the lower intake manifold pencil braces
   
5. Install transmission oil dipstick tube, if necessary.
   
   Fuel supply and return lines to the rear of the lower intake
   
6. Temporarily reattach the negative battery cable, then pressurize the fuel system (by cycling the ignition without starting the engine) and check for leaks.
7. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
8. Install or connect the following:
   
   Heater hose to the lower intake Upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing Distributor assembly and engage the wiring Ignition coil Connect vacuum hoses to the upper and lower intake manifold. New upper intake manifold gasket, making sure the green sealing lines are facing upward Upper intake manifold Manifold retainers. Tighten them to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm) using two passes. Purge solenoid and bracket Brake booster vacuum hose at the upper intake manifold PCV hose to the rear of the upper intake manifold Vacuum hoses to both the front and rear of the manifold assembly Throttle body Throttle linkage to the upper intake Wiring to the upper intake components including the TP sensor, IAC motor, MAP sensor and the fuel meter Engine cover Air intake assembly
   
9. Connect negative battery cable.
10. Refill the engine cooling system.
11. Start the engine and check for leaks.

answer , very carefully ...

drain coolant , remove and mark all vacuum lines , make a schematic to diagram your hose routing, disconnect and plug all fuel lines, remove distributor and mark location of rotor, disconnect battery, remove any necessary cables, brackets and or accesseries, remove intake mounting bolts, note length of bolts and reference location, pry up on intake , remove intake, scrape old gasket off , must be very clean to reinstall new gasket or you will cause a leak..

The vacuum comes from the intake manifold and ported vacuum comes from the carb above the throttle plate. You might have a leak at the carb gasket or intake manifold gasket. Spray some car cleaner or WD40 around the gaskets and vacuum lines while the engine is running and when you hear the idle speed up, you've found the leak. You will need to install the rebuilt carb first, and you should tighten any loose intake manifold bolts. Don't overtighten them. Also check the EGR valve because it could cause the engine to stall at idle. A good tune up might be needed too. I've seen some of those engines run real rough when the ignition timing was off.

To change a spark plug. 1.Disconnect the wire attached to the spark plug it would be wise to do only one at a time! 2.Take a long socket that will fit the spark plug 3.Attach to the socket wrench and turn counter clockwise until off. 4. Put the new spark plug in and hand screw until tight then turn the socket wrench clockwise until completely tight usually 1 1/2 turns. 5.Then reconnect the spark plug wire. Easy as that. Repeat steps 3-5 for the rest and remember ONE PLUG WIRE AT A TIME!

96 escort 1.9L




Engine Components
Item Part Number Description 1 6766 Oil Filler Cap 2 6A548 (8 Req'd) Valve Cover Bolt 3 6582 Valve Cover 4 — Exhaust Manifold Shield-to-Exhaust Manifold Nut (4 Req'd) 5 9A462 Exhaust Manifold Shield 6 — Exhaust Manifold Shield Stud (4 Req'd) 7 9430 Exhaust Manifold 8 9454 Exhaust Manifold Nut 9 9448 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 10 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Fine Thread), Short (4 Req'd) 11 — Exhaust Manifold Stud, Long (1 Req'd) 12 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Medium Thread), Short (1 Req'd) 13 6518 Valve Spring Retainer Key 14 6514 Valve Spring Retainer 15 6513 Valve Spring and Damper, Intake 16 6C515 Valve Tappet Guide Plate Retainer 17 6571 Valve Stem Seal 18 6513 Valve Spring, Exhaust 19 12405 Spark Plug 20 6269 Camshaft Thrust Plate 21 — Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt (2 Req'd) 22 — Cup Plug 23 6B273 Camshaft Oil Flow Control Rod 24 6K292 Camshaft Front Seal 25 6256 Camshaft Sprocket 26 6278 Camshaft Sprocket Washer 27 6K252 Camshaft Sprocket Retaining Bolt 28 6L269 Camshaft Sprocket Key (5 x 18) 29 6250 Camshaft 30 6051 Head Gasket 31 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel 32 6010 Cylinder Block 33 6507 Intake Valve 34 6505 Exhaust Valve 35 6049 Cylinder Head 36 — Intake Manifold Stud (7 Req'd) 37 17A084 Engine Lifting Eye 38 — Engine Lifting Eye Bolt (2 Req'd) 39 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket 40 — Bolt 41 9723 Accelerator Cable Bracket 42 9424 Intake Manifold 43 — Intake Manifold Nut (7 Req'd) 44 9D476 EGR Valve Gasket 45 — Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Bolt (2 Req'd) 46 9D475 EGR Valve 47 — Fuel Injection Supply Manifold Bolt
(2 Req'd) 48 9F593 Fuel Injector 49 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring 50 6786 Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket 51 — Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt 52 6754 Oil Level Indicator Tube 53 6750 Oil Level Dipstick 54 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold 55 — Vacuum Fitting 56 9E498 Main Emission Vacuum Control Connector 57 — Vacuum Tap 58 — Vacuum Hose 59 9B989 Throttle Position Sensor 60 — Screw and Washer 61 9F782 Throttle Position Sensor Gasket 62 — Throttle Body Bolt (4 Req'd) 63 — Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolt
(2 Req'd) 64 9F715 Idle Air Control Valve 65 9F670 Idle Air Control Gasket 66 9E926 Throttle Body 67 9E936 Throttle Body Gasket 68 — Vacuum Fitting 69 — Camshaft Position Sensor Screw 70 6B288 Camshaft Position Sensor 71 8255 Water Hose Connection Gasket 72 — Water Hose Connection Bolt (3 Req'd) 73 8592 Water Hose Connection 74 8575 Water Thermostat 75 6065 Cylinder Head Bolts 76 6500 Valve Tappet 77 6K512 Valve Tappet Guide Plate 78 6564 Rocker Arm 79 6A528 Rocker Arm Seat 80 6A527 Rocker Arm Bolt (8 Req'd) 81 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket Bolt
(3 Req'd) 82 18827 Noise Filter Condenser 83 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bolt (4 Req'd) 84 12259 Spark Plug Wire Set 85 12029 Ignition Coil 86 12043 Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket A — Tighten to 5-12 Nm (4-9 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 21-26 Nm (16-19 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 2-10 Nm (1.5-7 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 8-13 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 40-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft) I — Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft) J — Tighten to 8-11 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) K — Tighten to 23-30 Nm (17-22 Lb-Ft) L — Tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 Lb-Ft) M — Tighten to 4.5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) N — Tighten to 18-26 Nm (13-19 Lb-Ft)

Your EGR valve is located behind your throttle body and injectors, and it is attached to the intake manifold. It has two bolts on opposite sides of the valve and a vacuum line running out of it. Disconnect the vacuum line, remove the two bolts, and pull off the EGR valve. The EGR's on these trucks tend to get clogged up with carbon and stick. Take some carb and choke cleaner, and a small pick or very small flat head screw driver and break up the carbon inside of the valve. Be careful not to puncture the rubber diaphragm or you EGR will be no good after you get done cleaning it. Once you get all of the carbon deposits out of the EGR, assuming you buy a new gasket for it, put the gasket between the valve and intake manifold, tighten screws, and plug the vacuum line back in. This should solve your problem!