Free answer "93 Lexus head bolt torque

main head bolts - 1st step-70NM, 2nd step-70NM, 3rd step-60-75 degrees turn angle, 4th step-60-75 degrees
make sure you use new bolts. The smaller head bolts 25NM. Mains 166Nm, big ends 1st step-30Nm, 2nd step-45-60 degrees turn angle

This is a method of specifying how many additional degrees of rotation to turn a bolt after reaching a specified torque value.

Corsa 1.4i
Engine code Z14XE 2000-2004 Bolts must be replaced after removal.
stage 1. 25Nm
stage 2, +90 degrees
stage 3. +90 degrees
stage 4. +90 degrees
stage 5. +45 degrees
Engine code C14NZ 1993-1998
Stage 1. 25Nm
stage 2. +60 degrees
stage 3. +60 degrees
stage 4. +60 degrees

Replace bolts and torque to 65 foot pounds and this is the 3rd torque work up to it then turn the bolt to 90 degrees the torque should show 90 foot pounds or better

1. Tighten cylinder head bolts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts an additional 70 degrees plus 70 degrees plus 30 degrees using angular torque gauge .

Tightening torque in foot pounds

Step one: 17 ~ 20 lb. ft.

Step 2. then turn each bolt 60 degrees

Step 3. turn each bolt an additional 45 degrees

Torque Angle is supposed to be a "more scientific and precise way to gauge the "clamping force" applied to a bolt. This idea appeared about 20 years ago and is now, sadly, becoming universal on newer vehicles. The idea behind Torque Angle is that using the old foot-pounds torque wrench would not give you the kind of *exact* repeatable torque that you get using a breaker bar with a Torque Angle meter attached.

Unfortunately, there is no precise way of converting between Torque Angle and Foot Pounds. The best you can do -- and it will work -- is figure each "point" on the head of a 6-point bolt is equal to 60 degrees of Toque Angle (360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points) and do the following:

Do NOT use a torque wrench with this technique -- instead you must use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket attached (for this kind of heavy duty torquing a 1/2 breaker bar and socket would really be best):

Per the instructions you gave in your question, you would mark one of the six points on the bolt head and make a corresponding mark on the surface of what you're working on. Then turn the bolt so that the marked point turns away from the surface mark until the next point on the bolt reaches the surface mark.

You've just turned the bolt as close to 60 degrees as you're going to get without a Torque Angle meter (which I have found be very difficult if not impossible to use correctly in most real world cases anyway). This approximate 60 degree turn you just made is close enough to the first 55 degrees stated in the instructions. Same would be true for the next two measurements. Move the next point on the bolt to line up with the surface mark and finally turn the next point after that to the surface mark. As an engine mechanic of 40 years experience, I feel this end result is close enough because with that kind of a torque requirement you are really going to be cranking that bolt down and a few degrees of angle isn't going to matter by the time you do the last torque.

Using a Torque Angle meter may be just fine if you're working on the factory floor, but for everyone else I personally think Torque Angle is another case of "newer ain't necessarily better".

Remember the head bolts are not reusable. They are stretched, not torqued. I can't post illustrations here but the pattern can be found at LR’s service website, www.landrovertechinfo.com (you can register for free). The bolts are tightened to a light torque of 15 foot pounds, then turned through two angles of 90 degrees each.

Exhuast manifold torque 38 foot pounds, Head bolts are 38 Foot pounds after you add sealant to the bolts then after torque go another 130 degrees. Tighten center 4 bolts in sequence another 30 degrees.