Why is my suzuki samurai front end binding in 4 wheel drive

SOURCE: suzuki samurai rear end vibrating

Check your u-joints in the rear driveshaft.

SOURCE: 1987 suzuki samurai

http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam.htm

SOURCE: wheels making binding noises when turning

I have this same problem with my 1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2 Wagon. There is a Subaru Service Bulletin #16-62-97 dated 5/16/97 with a Subject entitled "Transfer Clutch Binding And/Or Bucking On Turns". There is also an important follow-up to it numbered 16-64-99 dated 09/15/99 entitled "Revised Transfer Clutch Assembly Replacement Procedures" that should also be used should you decide to go ahead with the transfer clutch replacement.

I just got these Service Bulletins from my mechanic who got them from a Subaru dealer.
The estimate was about $700-$1000 to fix. This is more than likely the cause of the binding problem on slow, sharp turns.

Dan Hunt
Danbury, CT

SOURCE: steering knuckle for 1988 suzuki samurai

No noise should come from the front when you are driving on asphalt as you are in 2WD, right? If you have been using 4WD with the hubs locked on asphalt, then there's every chance that your CVs are shot. You are, of course, unlocking the hubs when you are only in 2WD aren't you? When the hubs are unlocked and the car is in 2WD, the CVs do absolutely nothing. With the hubs unlocked, and the front jacked up, spin the wheel and listen for noises, and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle it in and out and check for movement. If there's no noise and very little movement, then your bearings are unlikely to be the problem. These are taper roller bearings and can be adjusted.

SOURCE: how long will it take to repair a 87 suzuki samurai clutch, 4x4

Remove the shifter from inside, two connectors to the sensorson the trans at the firewall, remove 4 bolts holding front driveshaft to the front diff, slide rear section of front driveshaft out of the splines, remove 4 bolts holding rear driveshaft to transfer case and slide the driveshaft out of the transmission tailshaft, remove the two starter bolts ( hardest part of the job), leave the starter in the engine bay with the wires still attached, remove the clutch ARM from the transmission, remove the rear transmission mount (4 12mm bolts) support the transmission on a jack, put another jack in from of the engine to pitch the engine so the rear is sagging down slightly (this is so you have enough clearance to remove the transmission), remove the four 14 mm bellhousing bolts (remember the longer one goes onto the passenger side top) tip the tailshaft up to the floor of the Sammy and slide it to the rear as far as possible, let the front come down slowly ( it will barley rub the pressure plate but not enough to hurt anything) presto its out, replace the clutch assembly and grease throwout and transmission splines the reverse these steps. I have done 3 of these and accomplished my last one in 4 hours total. No need to remove the exhaust, transfer case or engine as others have stated on numerous write ups. You will need two 12mm combo wrenches, one 14mm combo wrench, one 3/8 drive ratchet with 12mm shortwell socket, a couple extensions for said ratchet, one small pair of pliers (to hold the clutch cable while adjusting) and a hammer to gently tap the clutch arm onto the splines.