I am try to diagnose a power steering issue. The steering works fine when the car is cold, but after it is warm the power side of the steering only works if my foot is on the gas like on the road driving and the engine is above idle, but not at a stop with the foot on the brake. The fluid level is fine and light brown. Van has ~200,000 miles. Is this more likely the power steering pump, the rack, or something else?
SOURCE: Van cuts off while driving down the road
DID YOU CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE WITH A FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE, AND MAKE SURE IT IS WITHIN SPECS? IF SO THEN IT COULD BE YOUR IGNITION SWITCH...THE PROBLEM IS, TO DIAGNOSE IT IF IT IS THE IGNITION SWITCH, THE VAN MUST BE IN THE "NO START, OR NO RUN" STATE AT THE TIME....
PLEASE RATE THIS,
ROB...
SOURCE: power steering pump
This removal is rather involved: use a turkey baster to suction out PS fluid,disconnect neg battery cable, remove serpentine belt, raise vehicle, support on jack stands, disconnect Oxygen sensor wiring harness from vehicle wiring harness, (access to this connection is thru the wiring harness grommet in the floor of the vehicle) remove catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold, remove exhaust system hangers/isolators from the bracket on the exhaust system, move the exhaust system as far as possible to the rear and left side of the vehicle, remove accessory drive splash shield, detach the ps supply hose coming from the fluid reservoir, from the fitting on the ps pump, plug the hose to prevent fluid leaking all over, remove ps pressure line from pump, plug this line also, remove ps return hose, plug line, remove nut attaching pump (@ rear of pump) to mounting bracket, loosen 3 bolts at front ps bracket, remove pump and bracket as an assembly, now remove 3 bolts and separate, reverse to install. Yes, it's a b-itch. good luck, countrycurt0
SOURCE: I'll start my van (sometimes
Here is a fix...I had the same problem with the instrument cluster going dead intermittently. Pound your fist on the dash and wahlah, everything worked again. It would also register an engine code of 'invalid or incorrect information or lost data', something like that. What I found was a hairline crack in a solder connection on the cluster circuit board right at the harness plug connector. Mine happened to be the ground pin for the cluster. And what do I mean by 'hairline' crack? It takes a trained eye to find cracks in solder connections. Most people don't see them, because it is a circular microscopic crack surrounding the pin where it solders to the board. It it usually caused from heating and cooling, vibrations, and other element that attack and deteriorate solder. Very intermittent, and very hard to find. So instead, just simply resolder each of the connections to be sure another one won't fail in the near future.
SOURCE: Engine runs rough after about ten minutes /idles really low
Just trowing some suggestions out there, but, I would check the idle air control valve (solenoid) or the throttle position sensor. If they check out then my last guess would be the map sensor or the vaccuum to the map sensor. Hope I was able to help. Best wishes.
SOURCE: Car makes funny noise upon starting on very cold days
Have your power steering belt checked and adjusted, or replaced if worn.
163 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×