A friend brought his 99s70glt to me wanted me to put head gaskt on it .when i opened hood valve cover off intake cam was gone ex.was sitting on head crankshaft wasn't put on tdc HELP!

It should be located between the cam shafts. If you remove the Beauty Cover (( that's what they call the cover across the top of the motor. )) And then the Valve Cover. The Cam Sensor will be sitting between the Cam Shafts. Closer to the Intake Cam Shaft.

Exhaust camshaft gear and Intake gears have dots on them, chain has colored links. Align colored links to dots or count 14 links from ex cam dot to intake dot. Make sure that the mark on the cambelt side is set first on ex side. Small hole on ex cam gear (cambelt) side to line up with mark on head.

You have the wrong valve openong. To time an engine properly the Exhaust valve opens when you go past TDC, n ot the intake. The intake should be closing as you come up on TDC. Just pull the dizzy back out and give the engine one complete turn and put it back in. Hope this helps.

I don't recommend that unless you have a full set of tools and a lot pf patience and organizational skills. But here goes. Remove the coolant, drain the oil, disconnect the battery cable. remove the spark plug wires. Remove all cables and wires going to the intake. Remove the air cleaner and hoses connected to it. Remove all heater hoses and raciator hoses. Remove all the vacuum lines, remove the fuel lines,caution they are pressurized and may spray gas into the engine compartment. Remove the serpintene belt and alternator, air pump, and ac compressor. Remove timeing chain cover. Remove timing chain. Note where the timing marks are on the crankshaft and on the cam or cams if you have more than one cam. Remove the intake manifold, remove valve covers. If you have have push rods for the valves remove them. You will have to back off the pressure on the valve lifters to remove most of them. Remove the head bolts and lift the head free of the engine. Keep everything in perfect order. The water pump and timing chain often uses different length bolts that must be put back in the same holes. Also the push rods are supposed to be put back in the exact order as some may have worn more than others. To reinstall just clean all gasket surfaces on the head, engine block, intake and exhaust manifolds, valve covers, timing chain cover, thermostat cover, etc. I would go ahead and replace the timing belt or chain, depending on which engine you have. I would also go ahead and replace the spark plugs and wires too. Once everything is cleaned up, just reverse the order

Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.

please read all before starting not to bad to change did you check compression if your sure that's what it is its about 4hr job.start by putting #1 tdc intake side.note where vacuum hoses are can mark with gray or yellow perm marker remove breather all plug wires exhaust manifold then intake manifold remember what bolts in and whats nutted on.remove break booster cross vacuum hose and egr control valve on left rear of intake side remove vale cover ((you'll have to get something to hold tension on timing chain so not to let tentioner come out inside timing chain cover when removing came gear)) remove head bolts only in off order so not to put tension in one area. do not remove cam shaft bolts and do not turn cam shaft at all after timing gear is removed take off head and check piston walls for wear replace gasket and put back in GOOD LUCK

most likely it is the valve cover gasket. it covers the valve train where there is alot of oil to lube the top of the motor. if the head gasket was leaking it may have more signs of running poorly. also having coolant leaks also. so i will have to say valve cover gasket. now usally you may have a oil burning smell with it depending on the area of the lek but not always.

the valve cover can easily be seen when the hood is open. it is right on the top and where it meets the clyinder head is where the gasket is and the leak can be seen.

if you have more question please ask.

VALVE CLEARENCE FOR INTAKE VALES .0010 - .0020IN AND FOR EXHAUST 10020 -.0030IN.

Depends how much of a power increase you want. For street use I would buy a header, carb and intake, cam, lifters and valve springs, in that order. Upgrade theignition if you can afford it. More (higher numerically) gear in the differential will work wonders! I'd suggest something in the mid 3's. 3.55, etc. Keep the shift point under 6000 rpm. I drag race a 72 Gremlin with a 401, so if you need any more AMC help, let me know.

Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it