This has to go on a scanner. There are to many things that would make this happen. But I would just guess, You have a bad IPR solenoid. They are costly to just replace on a whim.
Thanks. I never finished my comment. After it dies u can wait 30 min and it will start.they said they had it tested and was told it was the tps . could that b it.
I doubt it. PCM's go into a default mode when certain sensors die. When this happens, you usually get bad fuel mileage. But the engine still runs. On diesels, The IPR can act up. The IPR regulates the oil pressure, and your vehicle runs on high oil pressure. (up to 4000 PSI at highway speeds) It takes 500 PSI just to start the engine. This is why you get a $4000 estimate to fix a diesel engine. To many things cause the same problem. So shops go threw and replace injectors, injector cups, seals, injector harness,sensors, and glow plugs. There are other things checked as they go.
It really, really needs on a scanner with some one that knows about the 7.3 power stroke.
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This could be a couple of things.
1. air vent in fuel cap blocked, run the car and when it cuts out go to the fuel cap and remove it, quickly, if there a rush of air when you open it, this mean the air breather in your fuel cap is blocked causing a vacuum in the tank and stopping the fuel flow. best would be to drive with the fuel cap open to the next garage and buy and new cap.
2. possible dirt in fuel tank blocking up the fuel line, when the car settles again the dirt then returns to the bottom of tank , this can come from letting the fuel run right down so dirt in the bottom of the tank gets lifted, or using platic or internal painted fuel cans. bits of platic and paint can get into the tank and get drawn into to fuel line, check the fuel filter if fitted if not have one fitted and look in it for any particles, if still continues with new filter. suggest the fuel tank be removed and cleaned out.
I hope this was helpful.
Replace your fuel filter then talk to me
Changed it nothing different
Changed it nothing different. And thanks for advice
You did the fuel filter and nothing .Did you cheek the fuel pump when the fuel filter was off .You turn the key to run and and put a soda bolttle or something over the fuel line to catch the fuel if any .Its really not that high tech compared to newer vehicles .Its not ever OBD 11.yOU NEED TO LOOK FOR SIMPLE ANSWERS .1 problem that can cause it all
I'm thinking about it .TPS SENSOR they go bad in fords of this year intermitent issues .Look at that it could do this
New tps thats what was suppose to of been wrong with it
There was a leak from one of the hoses that go from fuel pump . took fuel filter and hoses loose . then put new hoses . I was hoping that was the problem but wasn't. Still doing same thing
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SOURCE: 2001 FORD F150 ENGINE SURGES AND DIES AT IDLE
Check all of your vacume lines. If it isn't a vacume line it is most likely the O2 sensor.
SOURCE: ENGINE SURGES AT IDLE
with the engine running lift hood and lisen for a vacum leak and check all your vacum lines. if no vacum leak can be found then replace the idle air control valve.
SOURCE: ford festiva just dies while going down the road
i had many problems with what i thought was my starter/ignition and replaced my alternator and battery. tho they were helpful, ultimately the problem was a small fusible link that had needed to be replaced, as it was over heating and when it would it would stop whatever electrical signal was imperitive to the car actually running. if i was driving and the wire over heated, it would stop running right on the road. i just used some 12 AWG stranded wire and it stopped stalling.i discovered it by accident when i touched the wire and noticed it was excessively hot and worn down. it was located in the upper right hand corner under the hood, where there are 3 wires, brown and black.
SOURCE: I have a 2004 ford f-150 off road 5.4 liter. My
If this is a 2004 Heritage ( old body style ) and the transfer case is known to lock in ( check with truck jacked up, shift into 4WD and try to turn front drive shaft ), the next item to look at is the vacuum disconnect motor for the front axle. This is on the front axle, and will move when shifted into 4WD 
It is item #10, on this parts diagram 
If you do not have movement in this, check the vacuum lines with a vacuum pressure gauge, to see if vacuum is being applied ( Pink line is 2WD w/ vacuum is operation, Blue line is 4WD w/ vacuum operation ). If no vacuum at the lines, check them back to the vacuum shift solenoids
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