96 dodge caravan 3.3 started then died and now will not start or even crank lights work dash lights up but nothing from under the hood new ecm starter battery and crank sensor have all been put on what else could be causing this

It was programmed all were getting is a clicking from fuse box It was programmed all were getting is a clicking from fuse box

Find the relay that is clicking. Look at the panel cover to which one it is. Also find the starter relay and check the starter /crank fuse. Pull out the starter relay and swap it with another out of the panel. If it starts, replace the relay. Just a note though. I take my ECM's to a parts store to have them reprogrammed. Only on Dodge/Chrysler ECM's, they tell me up front that they don't guaranty that the security will work. And it might have to go to the dealer. Find the relay that is clicking. Look at the panel cover to which one it is. Also find the starter relay and check the starter /crank fuse. Pull out the starter relay and swap it with another out of the panel. If it starts, replace the relay. Just a note though. I take my ECM's to a parts store to have them reprogrammed. Only on Dodge/Chrysler ECM's, they tell me up front that they don't guaranty that the security will work. And it might have to go to the dealer.

We have switched the relays and fuses out still same situation when we jump the starter we get a crank but no start We have switched the relays and fuses out still same situation when we jump the starter we get a crank but no start

We bought the ecm from a local dodge dealer We bought the ecm from a local dodge dealer

Before you spend more time on this. When you replaced the ECM, did it start and die three times before it would not crank any more. If so, it is a security issue. Another way to be certain is to spray fats start in the throttle and jump the starter. If you can keep it running with fast start. It's security. Also, does the security light stay on? If so, then call the dealer. They may take care of it for free, you just have to get the vehicle to them. Just a thought. When you purchased the ECM, did they ask for the VIN#? Before you spend more time on this. When you replaced the ECM, did it start and die three times before it would not crank any more. If so, it is a security issue. Another way to be certain is to spray fats start in the throttle and jump the starter. If you can keep it running with fast start. It's security. Also, does the security light stay on? If so, then call the dealer. They may take care of it for free, you just have to get the vehicle to them. Just a thought. When you purchased the ECM, did they ask for the VIN#?

It never started and yes they got vin number it has not started since it died It never started and yes they got vin number it has not started since it died

There is no security on the car never has been There is no security on the car never has been

Sorry Joshua, But there is. Sorry Joshua, But there is.

Here is what is does.This passive system is designed to protect against vehicle theft. The Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) is part of the body control module, which monitors vehicle hood, doors, liftgate, and ignition for unauthorized operation. The alarm activates by sounding the horn, flashing the headlamps, park and tail lamps, and the VTSS indicator lamp, and providing an engine "no run" feature. Passive arming occurs upon normal vehicle exit by turning the ignition off, opening the driver's door, locking the doors with the power lock, and closing the driver's door or locking the doors with RKE. Manual arming occurs by using the key to lock the doors after closing them. The indicator lamp in the information center will flash for 15 seconds, showing that arming is in progress. If no monitored systems are activated during this period, the system will arm. If the hood ajar switch is seen as a closed circuit by the system, the indicator lamp will remain steadily lit during the arming process, although the system will still arm. When something triggers the alarm, the system will signal the headlamps, park lamps, and horn for about 3 minutes. Tamper Alert - If the horn sounds three times when either front door or the liftgate is unlocked, it means the alarm was activated. Check the vehicle for tampering. The VTSS indicator lamp will also flash twice quickly to indicate a tamper condition has occurred. Manual Override - The system will not arm if the doors are locked using the manual lock control (by hand) or if the locks are actuated by an inside occupant after the door is closed. When an unauthorized entry into the vehicle occurs, the VTSS sends a message via the CCD bus to the powertrain control module that it is not OK to start the engine. The powertrain control module then zeroes out the pulse width to the fuel injectors after the engine has been started, thus shutting down the engine (start and stall condition). The engine will not start until the system is disarmed. To verify the system, proceed as follows: Open the driver's door. Remove the ignition key (but keep it in hand). Lock the doors with the power lock switch. Close the driver's door. NOTE: After the doors are closed, locking the doors with RKE will also arm the system. NOTE: If the VTSS indicator lamp flashed, the system is operational and verified. If not, there may be a problem with the system. System initialization is accomplished by: Opening the hood to ensure the hood ajar circuit is closed. Rotating the key in liftgate cylinder to unlock/disarm position. Arming/Disarming - Active arming occurs when the remote keyless entry transmitter is used to lock the vehicle doors, whether the doors are open or closed. If one or more doors are open, the arming sequence is completed only after all doors are closed. Passive disarming occurs upon normal vehicle entry (unlocking either front door or the liftgate with the key). This disarming also will halt the alarm once it has been activated. Active disarming occurs when the remote keyless entry transmitter is used to unlock the vehicle doors. This disarming also will halt the alarm once it has been activated. System Self-Tests - NOTE: System self-tests can be entered only with the DRB or MDS machine. NOTES: A powertrain control module from a vehicle equipped with a vehicle theft security system cannot be used in a vehicle that is not equipped with a vehicle theft security system. If the VTSS indicator lamp comes on after ignition ON and stays on, the CCD bus communication with the powertrain control module possibly has been lost. Here is what is does.This passive system is designed to protect against vehicle theft. The Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) is part of the body control module, which monitors vehicle hood, doors, liftgate, and ignition for unauthorized operation. The alarm activates by sounding the horn, flashing the headlamps, park and tail lamps, and the VTSS indicator lamp, and providing an engine "no run" feature. Passive arming occurs upon normal vehicle exit by turning the ignition off, opening the driver's door, locking the doors with the power lock, and closing the driver's door or locking the doors with RKE. Manual arming occurs by using the key to lock the doors after closing them. The indicator lamp in the information center will flash for 15 seconds, showing that arming is in progress. If no monitored systems are activated during this period, the system will arm. If the hood ajar switch is seen as a closed circuit by the system, the indicator lamp will remain steadily lit during the arming process, although the system will still arm. When something triggers the alarm, the system will signal the headlamps, park lamps, and horn for about 3 minutes. Tamper Alert - If the horn sounds three times when either front door or the liftgate is unlocked, it means the alarm was activated. Check the vehicle for tampering. The VTSS indicator lamp will also flash twice quickly to indicate a tamper condition has occurred. Manual Override - The system will not arm if the doors are locked using the manual lock control (by hand) or if the locks are actuated by an inside occupant after the door is closed. When an unauthorized entry into the vehicle occurs, the VTSS sends a message via the CCD bus to the powertrain control module that it is not OK to start the engine. The powertrain control module then zeroes out the pulse width to the fuel injectors after the engine has been started, thus shutting down the engine (start and stall condition). The engine will not start until the system is disarmed. To verify the system, proceed as follows: Open the driver's door. Remove the ignition key (but keep it in hand). Lock the doors with the power lock switch. Close the driver's door. NOTE: After the doors are closed, locking the doors with RKE will also arm the system. NOTE: If the VTSS indicator lamp flashed, the system is operational and verified. If not, there may be a problem with the system. System initialization is accomplished by: Opening the hood to ensure the hood ajar circuit is closed. Rotating the key in liftgate cylinder to unlock/disarm position. Arming/Disarming - Active arming occurs when the remote keyless entry transmitter is used to lock the vehicle doors, whether the doors are open or closed. If one or more doors are open, the arming sequence is completed only after all doors are closed. Passive disarming occurs upon normal vehicle entry (unlocking either front door or the liftgate with the key). This disarming also will halt the alarm once it has been activated. Active disarming occurs when the remote keyless entry transmitter is used to unlock the vehicle doors. This disarming also will halt the alarm once it has been activated. System Self-Tests - NOTE: System self-tests can be entered only with the DRB or MDS machine. NOTES: A powertrain control module from a vehicle equipped with a vehicle theft security system cannot be used in a vehicle that is not equipped with a vehicle theft security system. If the VTSS indicator lamp comes on after ignition ON and stays on, the CCD bus communication with the powertrain control module possibly has been lost.

Please try all this first. And if it not the ECM, I will start giving you detailed info and schematics on what to do. Please try all this first. And if it not the ECM, I will start giving you detailed info and schematics on what to do.

Better have a volt/ohm meter handy. You will need it. Better have a volt/ohm meter handy. You will need it.

Heres the problem the car was hit a year ago on the passenger side we replaced the door but but it does not fit just right so the door ajar light is always on Heres the problem the car was hit a year ago on the passenger side we replaced the door but but it does not fit just right so the door ajar light is always on

If the door hinges were replaced, the light should go out. The latch in the door could be bad. That light being on could be the problem. I have 2 scanners and access two 2 other ones. I have a dozen different volt ohm meters( i fix TV's also). You should have the vehicle diagnosed. If the door hinges were replaced, the light should go out. The latch in the door could be bad. That light being on could be the problem. I have 2 scanners and access two 2 other ones. I have a dozen different volt ohm meters( i fix TV's also). You should have the vehicle diagnosed.

We have been to six mechanics none of them know the problem or wont touch it and dealer wants to charge almost 3000 to look and fix the problem We have been to six mechanics none of them know the problem or wont touch it and dealer wants to charge almost 3000 to look and fix the problem

Then go back to basics. Check the power points and ground points. loosen the bolt/s nuts and retighten them(all can be checked with an OHM meter). Check all the fuses by pulling them and looking. Replace as needed. Since you bought a new ECM and it was programmed, We would assume it is good. Just not always the case. Forget what you have already done, get a volt /ohm meter and do something different. You ready? Then go back to basics. Check the power points and ground points. loosen the bolt/s nuts and retighten them(all can be checked with an OHM meter). Check all the fuses by pulling them and looking. Replace as needed. Since you bought a new ECM and it was programmed, We would assume it is good. Just not always the case. Forget what you have already done, get a volt /ohm meter and do something different. You ready?

Looks like im going to be under the hood awhile checking wires Looks like im going to be under the hood awhile checking wires

Just check grounds first., Battery to engine, battery to body, and engine to body. Then there are a couple of grounds on the transmission to check. Go to alldatadiy.com. Name is randiohler. password is eugene11 . you will find your vehicle. Look at diagrams and find what you need. Just check grounds first., Battery to engine, battery to body, and engine to body. Then there are a couple of grounds on the transmission to check. Go to alldatadiy.com. Name is randiohler. password is eugene11 . you will find your vehicle. Look at diagrams and find what you need.

We can jump the starter but the car still will not start We can jump the starter but the car still will not start

We get nothing with the key except dash lights We get nothing with the key except dash lights

The question is - do you know if the key switch is providing power to all of the circuits ? You may need to test the switch. The question is - do you know if the key switch is providing power to all of the circuits ? You may need to test the switch.

We are now getting a clicking from the fuse.box We are now getting a clicking from the fuse.box

One of the relays ? One of the relays ?