I replaced a faulty ignition control module on a 1992 Buick Regal.The engine started only after I disconnected the negative battery terminal to reset the computer and waited approximately 24 hours.For future reference ,will the car start IMMEDIATELY after after I disconnect the negative terminal or do I still need to wait 24 hours again?

Start by disconnecting the starter solenoid. If the engine does not crank, then there may be a problem with the relay or wiring.

You may need to reset the computer (Engine Control Module or ECM) in the 2014 Ford Fusion if you are experiencing performance problems, have recently performed maintenance, or are trying to clear fault codes. Here's how you can do it: Note: Resetting the ECM will erase any stored fault codes and variable learning data, and may affect your vehicle's performance unless it relearns optimal settings. If you're not experiencing any problems, it's probably best to avoid resetting the ECM. How to Disconnect the Battery: Disconnect the negative terminal: Locate the negative (black) battery terminal. Use a wrench to loosen and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Make sure it is safely away from the battery. Wait: Leave the terminal open for about 15-30 minutes. This can remove any residual energy from the vehicle's electrical system, restoring the ECM to normal operation. Reconnect the terminals: Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten it. Reset: Start the vehicle and operate for a few minutes. Take a short test drive with different driving conditions to allow the ECM to relearn its settings. OBD-II Scanner Procedure: 1.1. Get an OBD-II scanner: Buy or borrow an OBD-II scanner. Make sure it matches your 2014 Ford Fusion. Look for an OBD-II port: The OBD-II port is usually located under the dashboard, near the driver's seat. Insert the OBD-II scanner into the port. Turn the ignition: Without starting the engine, set the ignition key to the "On" position. Accessing the ECM: Follow the scanner instructions to access the ECM reset function. This can be labeled "Clear Codes", "Reset ECM," or similar terms. Reset: Use the scanner to initiate the ECM reset. This will clear any stored error codes and reset the ECM

Hi. These engines are notorious for a faulty ignition control module. It is located under the coils. I must warn you. Before installing a new ICM. Apply the white paste onto the bottom of the module. This paste is critical in allowing the heat to dissipate away and into the aluminum base or mount. Without it the ICM will only last a short time before burning out. If your ICM does not come with heat sink paste then buy some locally or through Amazon. Ask for Silicone Heat Sink Compound or Heat Transfer Paste. This is the most common failure but there are other things that could have happened too. Checking fuses and related wiring is always a good place to start before replacing parts. Good luck.

Inspect/Test/Replace Hope this helps.

An ignition switch supplies voltage to the ignition control module and/or the ignition coil. Often an ignition sytem thas two wires connected to the run terminal of the ignition switch. On is connected to the module. The other is connected to the primary resistor and coil. The start terminal of the switch is also wired to the module.
You can check for voltage using either a 12-volt test light or a digital multimeter (dmm).
To use a test light:

• Turn the ignition key off and disconnect the wire connector at the module.
• Disconnect the S terminal of the starter solenoid to prevent the engine from cranking when the ignition is in the run position.
• Turn the key to the run position and probe the red wire connection to check for voltage.
• Check for voltage at the battery terminal of the ignition coil using the test light.
• Next, turn the key to the start position and check for voltage at the white wire connector at the module and the battery terminal of the ignition coil. If voltage is present, the switch and its circuit are okay.

To do the same test using a DMM:

• Turn the ignition switch to the off position and back-probe, with the meter's positive lead, the power feed wire at the module.
• Connect the meter's negative to a good ground at the distributor base.
• Turn the ignition to the run or start position as needed, and measure the voltage.
• The reading should be at least 90% of battery voltage.

You have a short circuit somewhere. check thoroughly under the hood for an exposed or disconnected cable touching the frame or other metal components which are grounded to the negative terminal of the battery.

Before you start work disconnect the Negative cable of the battery for at least 5 minutes, that will disable the system and allow time for the Airbag firing capacitor's in the control module to drain down.

I would replace the crankshaft ignition pickup (Crank position sensor)

You could try disconnecting the neg terminal on the battery for 5 minuets and put it back on.. That will reset everything and hoping to clear the issue.. It could also be a bad ignition switch.. It could also be a bad control module (computer)..

Good luck ;)

Ignition Module REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
2. Separate the wiring harness connections.
3. Unbolt the igniter.
4. Loosen the nut holding the wire lead onto the coil.
5. Tag and disconnect the wire lead.
6. Lift the igniter off its mount.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal.

---

The following is related by not the same as the 'ignition module.':
Ignition Coil TESTING 1994–95 Models

1. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds from the time the negative battery was disconnected to start work. CAUTION
   Work must be started after 90 seconds from the time that the ignition switch is turned to the LOCK position and the negative battery cable is disconnected from the battery.
   
2. Using a 5mm hexagon wrench, remove the 2 cap nuts and the V-bank cover. Fig. 1: Remove the V-bank cover, a 5mm hexagon wrench will be needed — 1MZ-FE engine
   
   
3. Disconnect the ignition coil wiring from the coil being tested. Fig. 2: Disconnect the ignition coil wiring from the component being tested — 1MZ-FE engine
   
   
4. Insect the primary coil resistance using an ohmmeter. Measure the resistance (cold) between the positive and negative terminals. Resistance should be between 0.54–0.84 ohms. Fig. 3: Attach an ohmmeter to the positive and negative terminals of the coil — 1MZ-FE engine
   
   
5. If the resistance is not within specifications, replace the ignition coil.
6. Reattach the ignition coil wiring.
7. Reinstall the V-bank cover. Push on the cover until a click is felt, then tighten the cap nuts.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Reset any digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock if necessary.

Check that the battery terminals are clean and that the battery connectors are a tight fit and cannot slide around the battery post or terminal.

The ignition switch may be faulty or the connector to it may have become detached or the main vehicle fuse might have blown. Does the radio work, interior light or any of the ancillary electrical equipment?

Have you checked for voltage at the demand side (as opposed to the supply side of various fuses)?

Check the main battery cables (the positive and the negative) and that the earth cables are a secure fit and have a good electrical connection.

Is the battery connected the right way round? Positive to positive and Negative to negative?