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An engine that will crank but not start can be tricky to diagnose. First, we can rule out the battery, starter and circuits in-between due to the cranking condition. The three areas to focus our attention on are compression, spark and fuel. Generally speaking, a compression gauge should show each cylinder at above 100 PSI for an engine to run. Low compression would have to be present across all cylinders (or at least one bank on a v-shaped engine) to generate a no-start condition which would be indicative of a timing belt or other mechanical issue. Next, a spark tester should show ignition spark present while the engine is cranking. With a coil-on-plug (COP) setup it would be inconceivable for all six plugs or coils to fail simultaneously, therefore if spark is not present it would point to a crankshaft position sensor (CKP) or other control-side issue. Lastly, there is the fuel system which is two-fold; fuel supply and fuel delivery. Fuel supply is the fuel pump which takes fuel from the tank and supplies it to the fuel rail at the engine. The fuel pump should prime (turn on for a few seconds) when the key is cycled on. Fuel pressure can be checked at the fuel rail for proper operation or alternatively a flammable aerosol such as starting fluid can be sprayed into the intake while cranking to see if the engine runs. Fuel delivery on the other hand consists of the fuel injectors which must be modulated. Much like the ignition coils it is not likely to have six injectors fail at once, therefore if fuel is not injecting into the intake it would point to a camshaft position sensor (CMP) or other control-side issue. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p2619-obd-ii-trouble-code-crank-position-signal-output-circuit-open-by-valerie-johnston
Check all fuses first, then with an assistant, check for spark with a spark tester. if there is spark at 2 plugs, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a gauge. Engines need three things to run, fuel, spark, and compression. If there is spark and fuel, do a compression test, if the timing belt jumped/broke, you won't have any
If it cranks good but won't start, and it doesn't make any horrible noises when cranking, like internal engine issues, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure.
Yes, valve timing could be an issue? Do you have good cylinder compression? Use a compression gage to check. Usually if no compression, the cranking rpms can be faster than normal.
You need to check three things if your car wont start.check the fuel make sure your getting fuel to your engine.If so check to see if you have spark u can do that by taking a spark plug wire off the plug and put a screw driver in it have someone crank your engine and tap the metal part of screwdriver to metal if it sparks your good.the last is compression u need a compression tester to check that.
I would check your firing order, and all the stuff with the distributor,
no loose connections and stuff, check the condition of all your plugs,
make sure they are gapped correctly, check everything, maybe your
injectors are clogged or broken? (unlikely but still check it out) then
at last check for compression. All you need is fuel, spark and
compression to fire. Check all cylinders to make sure they are ok on
everything.
Get your tools (for removing a spark plug) ready. Try to start the
engine, pumping the accelerator a little while you crank. Take a spark
plug out. Is the spark plug wet with gas (smell fuel)? If so, you are
getting fuel. Hook the spark plug you just took out up to the coil, lay
it on the engine where it will be grounded to the metal. Get someone to
crank the engine, and check for spark at the end of the plug. If there
is a good spark, that eliminates another problem (don't crank the
engine, or let it run too long with the plug out). If you have spark,
and fuel, either the timing is way off (broken, slipped timing
belt/chain), or you have no compression (internal engine).
Do you have a "Check Engine" light, or any other warning light on? Recently you make any work there or disconnected the battery? Are you thniking in Theft, Immobilizer or Passlock security alarm? Is this occurrs and the keys isn't work, its need to re-programmed, for this need to visit your Honda dealer.
If the engine
cranks over normally when you attempt to start you car, but the engine
does not start, the problem may be NO FUEL, NO SPARK or NO COMPRESSION.
The engine needs adequate fuel pressure, a properly timed spark and
normal compression to start.
1) To find why the engine won't
start, remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body, push the
throttle open and spray a small amount of aerosol starting fluid into
the engine. Crank the engine. If it has spark and compression but NO
FUEL, it will start and run a few seconds before dying. If it does NOT
start, it probably has NO SPARK.
2)Another method to check for spark is to pull a spark plug wire
off of a spark plug (if it has plug wires, coil-on-plug ignitions do
not) and place the open end of the plug wire near a metal surface on
the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for a spark.
DO NOT hold the wire while doing this as it can shock you. If you see a
spark, the problem is not spark, but most likely NO FUEL or NO
COMPRESSION. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the IGNITION
CIRCUIT.
3)Proper fuel pressure is critical for fuel injected engines
to start and run. You should hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank
buzz for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on (no buzz
means the pump is not running and the engine is not getting fuel). You
can smell the tailpipe for gasoline vapors after cranking the engine.
If you smell gas, the problem is likely not fuel but NO SPARK. You can
also remove the plastic cap and press the schraeder valve test fitting
on the fuel rail to see if there is any fuel pressure to the engine
(not a very accurate test because fuel pressure must be at a certain
level for the engine to start, for that you need a gauge). Even so, no
fuel at the fuel rail would tell you fuel is not getting to the engine..
It cranks really good sputters a little and makes some loud pops but it will not turn over? FYI:Cranking and turning over are the same thing. When was the last time it ran. The gas could be bad. Did you get new plug wires as well. Try testing the distributor, remove a spark plug, plug it back into the wire, and touch the threads to ground and crank the engine. It should spark. Keep your fingers away, that's high voltage. Remove all spark plugs, spray some starting fluid in each cylinder, then crank the engine with the plugs out. This will clean any debris from the cylinders. Engines need backpressure to run properly, a major exhaust leak hence the popping, could cause it to not run. If you can get it started try to keep it going, full throttle, keep in the starting fluid, it could just need to get warm. I used to have one of them and they don't like it when they're cold.
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