Truck starts with a boost but once cables are off battery indicator drops then truck shuts down unless engine is revved.

the cable /fuse to alternator has nothing to do with the start and run function if the battery is charged up and in good condition ,sounds like the main battery cables have a bad contact/connection or battery is shot<follow battery cables and remove all points of connection in engine bay area clean contacts with sandpaper and resecure all connections 1 AT A TIME! to make sure none are swapped around by mistake ) on both earth cable/negative and the positive/power cables,make sure terminals on battery are clean and tight , try boosting/jump starting your battery with jumper cables connected from another cars battery positive to positive .........negative to negative and see if it starts ,i doubt the problem of starting up is the alternator unless battery is flat and not being charged by alternator ,by jump starting with another baterry will give you the answer once all baterry cables and connections are clean and secure

Try to boost the battery up! Can you say if the lights go down when you turn the ignition key?in that case is the battery that should be replaced or it is down! Try to boost it for now! Do not touch anything else!

I Would Try EGR Value And Check Plugs Wires And (Coil Or Distributor Cap Which Ever You Have).

The battery light comes on when there is an issue with the charging system. Most likley you have a bad alternator. With the engine running you should see a min. of 13.5 volts at the battery and better yet 14+ volts. If you have 12.5 or less than the alternator is not charging.

Once the vehicle is started the battery is no longer in play. The alternator is what keeps the power supply to the vehicle and recharges the battery for the next time you want to start the vehicle. Once battery voltage drops below 9 volts or so systems start to shut down. Eventually the battery will drain enough that the engine management system can no longer function and the vehicle will stall.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The first thing to do would be to put the battery on a slow or trickle charge for about 24 hours. It may be worn down enough from sitting that it needs to be revitalized. This should do it if the battery is still good. While it is charging, clean up all your cable ends and terminals to bare shiny metal. Do the battery, starter and alternator and the grounds in the engine compartment. Once the battery is charged up try it again. If the car will only start once or try to start once and need to be boosted, you will need a new battery. If it starts and runs repeatedly, then get the output checked on the alternator. A new one should charge at 14-14.5 volts but as long as it shows better than 12 volts it should be okay. Also when you are testing it, turn all your accesories on, radio, heater, A/C operate power accessories and watch to see how the alternator handles the load. The needle on your meter will bounce a little but should come back to where it was. If it doesn't then you will need to replace it as well. Hope this helps.

Follow your glowplug wires towards the Firewall. The glowplug wire goes into a Timer which is suppose to be internally regulated by outside Temperature and feedback from the glowplugs.

When you are in Cold weather, the Timer is suppose to keep the glowplugs on longer. When the engine is fully warm and you shut it off, you will notice it starts up like a gas engine. First you want to remove your glowplugs and check them by using Jumper cables and heating them up.

Be careful because they can melt or distort if on too long. I usually pull out 4 at a time because it is a comparison test and when you find the quickest, brightest glowplug you measure the others against it. When the glowplug stays dark or does not heat as quickly it is bad. Remember when it is in the engine the glowplug only has bumps of current coming from the Timer to warm up.

Once you are confident the glowplugs are okay, try starting the truck. Or for good measure, just change the Timer, but it will add to the cost.

As for the engine light, if you mean the "check engine" light, you can get that checked free at Autozone, Oreillys, or Advance. I believe Advance may be better equipped to test the PCM.

I hope my solutions are very helpful to you and thanks for using this service.

try an old fashioned battery boost from another car or truck. leave the other car running while boosting your. run booster cable from the booster car to your truck make sure to run them the same way on each battery. positive on booster to positive side battery on the truck. run the negative from booster car to negative on your truck. allow the car to run for about 10minutes before you attempt to start your truck. this allows your battery to build up enough charge for the start up of your truck. after your truck starts take the cables off right away. let your truck run for at least 15minutes to allow time for your battery to build up before you attempt to drive it.that way if it should die,you'll have enough charge on your battery for a restart. thank you for choosing fixya.com hope this helps.

You need to fully charge the battery and load test it, then check the charging system and alternator drive belt for tightness. do not remove cable when running or it can harm the charging system...ok on older cars, no longer good practice. Quick check of charge system can be done with volt meter across the battery. Volts should read between 13 and 14volts and not drop over time. With all lights, heater etc on volts should be better than 12.5 (usually above 13 and again, not drop with time.

First try boosting car with extra battery, attach posotive cable of booster battery to posotive cable of your battery and negative cable of booster battery to engine block, never to negative post of your battery, If it still does not turn over,Try turning over the motor with a socket and stong arm attched to crankshaft bolt. It could be that your motor has seized due to lack of lubrication

I had the same issue with a S-10 blazer that by wiggling the key while trying to start the truck the warning lights would come on and the engine would start. We replaced the ignition switch and solved the problem.