Replaced alternator and battery in my car, it'll run fine for a few minutes but as soon as you turn off, then try to start again it ticks like the battery is dead. remove cables and replace and it starts fine, same thing over and over again.
Lacey are you sure your alternator is puting out.just because it is knew doesn't mean it's anygood. But if it is there a fuse at the alternater check it.Also make sure the battery is charged and have someone inside the car where the fuses are.Theother one out at battery lossen the cable for the battery to where they can put it on and off by hand.ok Now as you take off cable look to see if it sparks, if it does there is a short in your wiring or a bad ground.Know the other peson needs to take out a fuse then theperson at bettery need to do there thangjust keep doing till it quit sparking that will tell about where Short is. gl
Testimonial: "I did the test for the short already, no spark. I don't know how to test the output on the alternator but the belt is turning. when its running if you remove the neg battery cable it dies."
I did the test for the short already, no spark. I don't know how to test the output on the alternator but the belt is turning. when its running if you remove the neg battery cable it dies
It has an after market remote start and my mind keeps leaning toward that, but I was told the computer may need reset because the battery was changed.
Take to auto spply plce they can check out put and they don't charge anthing.
Thanks Everyone!
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To test the alternator connect a voltmeter to the battery. Start the engine, the meter should read at least 13 VDC.
If the engine won't start, take the battery to autozone, Sears, or other shops. They will check and charg your battery free.
Hope this helps.
You have a main fuse on the side of the fuse panel under the hood for the alternator. 175 amp . Replace it. Follow the big cable from the alternator to the fuse panel. Pull up the door, this is where the fuse is.
Testimonial: "the 175a fuse is between the starter and the alternator on the same wire that goes to the battery, (unless there is another on we cant find) it was blown, replaced it along with the wire and it blew again. 3 different fuses. all blown."
"the 175a fuse is between the starter and the alternator on the same wire that goes to the battery, (unless there is another on we cant find) it was blown, replaced it along with the wire and it blew again. 3 different fuses. all blown."
You have a short in that wire to ground. You'll have to find the short or replace the wires. I would use wired clips and a cheap 30 amp fuse to check the wires. First disconnect the starter wire. turn it on and see if the fuse blows. If it doesn't the short is in the starter. If it does, I would cut the cable from the battery to the starter and check again. If it still blows, check the alternator cable the same way. if it still blows, replace the cable from the battery to the fuse panel, fix the others or replace them also. No other wires except these will blow a 175 amp fuse. Any other wire would melt or catch on fire.
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Put a volt meter on the positive and negative terminals of your battery and it should show anywhere from 12.5-14 volts dc with the engine running.
Testimonial: "ok. Thanks"
If you disconnect the battery while the engine is running and it cuts out then the alternator is not charging the battery!
Testimonial: "how do I test that? Its a brand new alternator and battery. ugh."
how do I test that? Its a brand new alternator and battery. ugh.
the alternaor is a B****. Seriously took like 8 hours to replace.
Disconnecting the battery is a good test of the alternator working properly or not! As jjrd55 commented there is a fuse controlling the alternator...that should be your first check! If the new alternator was a direct replacement and was identical to the old one you can rule out an incorrect alternator for now!
and that fuse is probably near the alternator? I checked the ones that said like voltage regulation and such.
2 places to check fuses! Inline between alternator and battery, trace the wire! And at the fuse box next to battery.
Thanks!
Ok, the fuse was blown, 175a. got a new one and installed and the car did the same thing. Died after about 10 minutes of running and blew that new fuse. Got a whole new wire, new fuse and bamm. Died, 3rd fuse dead. Im out of ideas
This would normally indicate a short in the system! The usual places to check are the wiring and the alternator both of which you have replaced! So now I would look at the new alternated you replaced....was it an identical replacement, same part number and looked the same? It could be that the wiring in the new alternater is different to the original, was it new or reconditioned?
It was exactly the same but it was reconditioned. I think we are going to test the solenoid and try to see what it is doing up everything we have tried is just a dead end. There are 12v at battery when not running. 13v at solenoid, and 13 at alternator. When the car is running the voltage drops on the battery and when it gets to like 10 it starts dying. We removed the battery cable to see if we could get it to spark to test for a short and it doesn't. Could a solenoid drain the battery? I dont really know the purpose of that but there is only so much hooked into the charging system wire that seems to be the problem.
It will start when it's jumped it drags a little but still starts. But the other day it died with the jumper cables connected. The horn stops working, the radio, The gages drop, and it sputters like its running out of gas. Which tells me alternator, we are just trying to get any ideas of a small fix out of the way before we spend 8 hours changing that alternator again.
Yes! Check the solenoid, if it is bad it will cause a short that could blow a fuse! Your problem is not a drain on the battery.......it is the alternator is not charging the battery. The fuse blowing is your problem, when that is solved the charging will be ok and your battery will not run out! if the alternator is faulty and outputting a higher voltage or there is a short somewhere then these would cause the fuse to blow.
Also the readings from a fully functioning alternator should be around 14.5 Volts! You are getting a reading of above 12 Volts which is showing the alternator is doing something but for a new alternator I would expect just under 15 Volts! This is still not your issue at the moment until you find the reason for the fuse blowing!
my boyfriend put jumper cables on the solenoid. the gear looking thing on the starter pulled out but didnt spin. does this mean the solenoid is bad or the starter?
the loaction of the alternator makes it hard to test while the car is running because of the belt. and it has to be running to get a proper voltage reading right?
the solenoid powers the starter motor......the fact that the starter is getting power to engage would suggest the solenoid is ok and the starter motor is bad! But the low battery power could be causing it too!
You will need the fuses to be good to check the alternator! Put the meter on the battery terminals, you should get 12Volt reading, then start the engine and you should be getting a reading of 14.5Volts!
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it shouldn't die if you disconnect battery, alternater is not putting out.Have it check at auto zone or someplace close they don't charge.
well I'm in the boonies and can't drive it 15 miles to any place like that. Thanks for the info guys. appreciate it.
http://www.newcougar.org/forums/problems... sounds idential to this fellas problem so I'm gonna try what he did.
except my lights dont turn on, not even a check engine.
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