I own a 1998 Isuzu Bihorn and have just replaced the flywheel. While the vehicle was unusable I changed the oil/filters and some radiator "O" rings. While the vehicle cranks(battery is good) there is no starting, can you advise where I should look to to start engine

Question edited for clarity.

5 Quarts with Filter change.

1999 Isuzu RODEO recommended synthetic oil and filter

https://www.searchforparts.com > oil-change > isuzu-19...
With filter 5 quarts After refill check oil level. ASLQT-EA Signature Series 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil ASLQT-EA

How much oil capacity in a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo? - Answers

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Jan 3, 2012 - Q: How much oil capacity in a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo? Write your answer... Submit. Related questions ...

1999 Rodeo oil change ' Bob Is The Oil Guy

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Feb 13, 2013 - ...This is the 3.2 V6 engine ran from 1998 to 2002. I think after 2002 a new V6 engine was used I'm not sure. This particular Isuzu 3.2L DOHC ...

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Remove the oil level indicator tube.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove the engine oil and the engine oil filter.
4. Remove the oil filter adapter.
5. Remove the starter.
6. Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
7. Remove the engine mount through bolts.
8. Raise and support the engine.

1. Remove the oil pan nuts and bolts. Note the location of any studs to assist reassembly.
2. Remove the engine oil pan and the gasket.
3. Clean all sealing surfaces. Refer to Oil Pan Clean and Inspect under Engine Unit Repair.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Install the engine oil pan and a NEW gasket. Refer to Oil Pan Installation under Engine Unit Repair.
2. Lower the engine onto the mounts.
3. Install the engine mount through-bolts.
4. Install the starter.
5. Install the flywheel inspection cover.
6. Install the engine oil filter and the engine oil.
7. Install the oil filter adapter.
8. Install the oil level indicator tube.

Hi Juan, I think it would be more advisable to replace the oil filter which comes with the seal. Regards John

procedure is pasted below. Yes, you have to take the compressor loose if you have the 2.4 liter engine. You should never have to remove the flywheel to get the pan off, but you do have to pull the cover off the flywheel. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.2L Engine
See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the crankcase. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
3. Unfasten the exhaust shield and disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
4. Remove the starter motor and position it out of the way.
5. Remove the flywheel cover.
6. On care equipped with automatic transaxle, remove the oil filter and extension.
7. Unfasten the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan.

Fig. Fig. 1: Oil pan installation-1995 2.2L OHV engine shown

To install:

1. Prior to oil pan installation, check that the sealing surfaces on the pan, cylinder block and front cover are clean and free of oil. If installing the old pan, be sure that all old RTV hae been removed.
2. Apply a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan sealing surface. Use a new oil pan rear seal and apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the ends of the gasket down to the ears and install the pan in place.
3. Tighten the oil pan retaining bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
4. On care equipped with an automatic transaxle, replace the oil filter adapter seal and replace the oil filter adapter.
5. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.

2.3L and 2.4L Engines
See Figures 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Properly drain the engine oil and the cooling system into suitable containers.
3. Remove the flywheel housing or transaxle converter cover, as applicable.
4. Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly, then remove the right splash shield.
5. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
6. Unfasten the A/C compressor lower retaining bolts.
7. Remove the transaxle-to-engine brace.
8. Disconnect the engine mount strut bracket.
9. Unfasten the radiator outlet pipe bolts, then remove the pipes from the oil pan.
10. Remove the exhaust manifold brace.
11. Unfasten the oil pan-to-flywheel cover bolt and nut.
12. Remove the flywheel cover stud for clearance.
13. Disconnect the radiator outlet pipe from the lower radiator hose and oil pan.
14. Detach the oil level sensor connector.
15. Unfasten the oil pan retaining bolts, then remove the pan and gasket. Inspect the gasket for damage. If it'e O.K. you can reuse it. No sealer is necessary.

Fig. Fig. 2: After removing the oil pan, inspect the gasket. If it's not damaged you can reuse it

To install:

1. Position the gasket, then install the oil pan. Loosely install the retaining bolts.
2. Place the spacer in its approximate installed location by allow clearance to tighten the pan bolt directly above the spacer. Tighten the oil pan bolts to the specifications given in the accompanying figure.

Fig. Fig. 3: Oil pan tightening specifications-2.3L and 2.4L engines

1. Position the spacer into its proper position, then install the stud.
2. Fasten the oil pan-to-transaxle nut.
3. Attach the oil level sensor connector.
4. Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the oil pan and fasten with the retaining bolts.
5. Install the engine mount strut bracket.
6. Fasten the transaxle-to-engine brace.
7. Secure the A/C compressor bolts.
8. Install the serpentine drive belt.
9. Fasten the right splash shield, then install the wheel and tire assembly.
10. Install the flywheel housing or transaxle converter cover.
11. Fill the cooling system and engine crankcase with the correct type of fluids.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.

ISUZU HAS A RECALL ON LEAKY INJECTORS ON THAT TRUCK GIVE THEM A CALL The injectors use the engine oil at very high pressure to inject the fuel, and semi synth oil just can't withstand these high pressures for very long. It breaks down, loses it's viscosity, and then the injectors won't work properly.
Change the oil to fully synth, and you should see a huge difference. (Do both oil filters while you're at it too). 1. Injectors. Usually the electronics in them fail and cause a miss fire.

2. Injector Sleeves. Causing diesel to leak into the sump and in severe cases the oil/diesel mixture filling up to such an extent that the vehicle actually runs on its own, on the mixture. This can cause the engine to rev to the maximum until all the oil/diesel mixture is burned or the engine basically destroys itself.

3. Rail Pressure Sensor. If the E.C.U cant determine what pressure is at the rail the vehicle may not start or stop running . A fairly simple fix with only the rocker cover needing to come off.

4. Rail Pressure Control Valve. This controls the pressure supplied to the rail. Engine will not start if this control valve is faulty.

5. Turbocharger. A very unreliable unit. Seals usually go after 50000miles.

6. Dual Mass Flywheel. Seldom give trouble but I have seen a few that have. If the new flywheel is taken off and not put back in the same way as the old one (lined up via a half moon shaped mark) the engine will not start as the flywheel sensor will be unable to determine the position of the flywheel.

7. Throttle Position Sensor. Fairly troublesome. Usually no deteriation in driveability but will bring on the engine light.

The engine is a gem when running correctly but unfortunately its a rare occurrence. I think the 02 onwards models had a lot of modifications done to them such as improved injectors etc.

it cold e the rings on your pistons not allowing compression cause it was lying in one position all the time i would clean plugs and spray a little oil into cylinders this will increase compression slightly and she might fire once she runs she will be okay then

if it was your oil filter you would have oil leak issues,it sounds like the flywheel could have stripped teeth.causing a jam up with the starter. lift vehicle up and inspect flywheel.

need you have system checked to get trouble code to many things will turn light on to guess

Drop the gearbox down and out, take off the flywheel and you can see the seal then , prise it out ,cut off the wearing if it has one, tap on the new wear ring ,fit the new seal and replace the gearbox .

You maybe gotta jack up the back of the box to get the top bolts out , depends how handy you are .

There is an "O" ring between the Oil filter housing and the adapter that will leak as well. Remove the oil filter and check inside of the housing for a large nut. Remove the nut and separate the adapter from the housing. Check the "o" ring between them and replace with new "o" ring. That's where mine is leaking and I've read a couple of others that had the same problem. The old ring started out "round" and has, over time, become flat. The new ring should start out with a flatter cross section that will seal better. Good luck! (Easy Fix, but finding the "o" ring may be a challenge. Check for the ring at the Honda Dealer as the Passport is the same basic vehicle.) Do it during the next oil change........