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The tie rod connects the two front steering pieces together so that both tires point in the same direction at the same time.
The stabilizer shaft link is part of the suspension that helps keep the vehicle lever when you're going around corners.
Check with your local GM dealer or auto parts supply for torque specs.
Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs:
• Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs
• Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs
• Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs
• Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs
• Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
NOTE: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly (clock spring) to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the assembly.
Lock the steering column by installing the J42640 into the underside of the steering column.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tires and wheels.
Remove the power steering gear heat shield.
Remove or disconnect the following:
CAUTION Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control, which could result in personal injury.
Intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt and coupling from gear
Pressure and return pipes from the gear
Electrical connector, if equipped Stabilizer shaft links at lower control arms
Remove the left stabilizer shaft insulator.
Rotate the stabilizer shaft to access steering gear bolts.
The outer tie rod retaining nuts.
Using J24319-B separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.
Rack and pinion attaching bolts
Rack and pinion assembly through the left wheel opening.
Transfer the outer tie rods if replacing the power steering gear.
To Install:
Install or connect the following:
Rack and pinion assembly through the left wheel opening and tighten the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
Electrical connector, if equipped Pressure and return lines to the steering gear and tighten the fittings to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
Heat shield and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7 ft. Lbs. (10 N)
Install the left stabilizer shaft insulator.
Install stabilizer shaft Links to lower control arms
Intermediate shaft to the steering gear and tighten the pinch bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm)
Install the outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
Install the outer tie rods retaining nuts. torque the nuts to 22ft.lbs(30 Nm) plus an additional 180 degrees.
Install the tires and wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the steering column anti rotation pin from the steering column.
Fill and bleed the power steering system.
Adjust the front toe.
Lock the steering column by installing the Steering Column Anti Rotation Pin tool J 42640 into the underside of the steering column--Aurora
Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheel and tire assemblySkid plate, as required. If equippedDrive axle hub nut and washerBrake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm.Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.
Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock asideLeft stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frameStabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
NOTE
Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.
Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.
Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
Install or connect the following:
Axle shaft in the hubInboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm).New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required.Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frameStabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control armLower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and boltLeft tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nutBrake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinkedSkid plate, as requiredAxle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)Wheel and tire assembly
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