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Anonymous Posted on Mar 16, 2015

Mainly the torque for the tie rod I have the rest. Or is the stabilizer shaft link called a tie rod ?

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DavidPerich

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  • Posted on Mar 16, 2015
DavidPerich
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No.
The tie rod is what controls the direction the wheel points when you steer.

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2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD torque specs please

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https://www.justanswer.com > ... > Chevrolet Repair
Jan 11, 2021 - Below are the torque specs you requested: Steering Rack-to-frame mounting bolts: 136 lb. ft. Outer tie rod nut: 37 lb. ft. Outer tie rod ...
1 answer · 1 vote: Coupler clamp bolt to the intermediate shaft: 33 ft. lb.

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Looking for front suspension torque specs for tie rod. Or is a stabilizer shaft link the same thing as a tie rod

The tie rod connects the two front steering pieces together so that both tires point in the same direction at the same time.
The stabilizer shaft link is part of the suspension that helps keep the vehicle lever when you're going around corners.
Check with your local GM dealer or auto parts supply for torque specs.
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GMC 2500HD tie rod end nut torque specs.

Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs:
• Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs
• Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs
• Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs
• Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs
• Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs
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Replacing axel on passenger side of 2000 hyundai elantra please give a step by step

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Front wheel
    • Spindle nut
    • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
    • Outer tie rod end
    • Stabilizer bar link
    • Lower ball joint
  3. Press the stub shaft out of the hub.
  4. Pry the inner joint out of the transaxle or intermediate shaft.

To install:

NOTE

Use new circlips, split pins and self-locking nuts for assembly.


  1. Install the inner joint so that the circlip is felt to seat in the retaining groove.
  2. Guide the stub shaft into the hub.
  3. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint and torque the nut to 43-52 ft. lbs. (58-70 Nm)
    • Stabilizer bar link
    • Outer tie rod end and torque the nut to 17-25 ft. lbs. (23-34 Nm)
    • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
    • Spindle nut and torque the nut to 144-187 ft. lbs. (195-253 Nm)
    • Front wheel
  4. Check and/or adjust the wheel alignment.
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My rack and pion is leaking , how do i replace

To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section. NOTE: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly (clock spring) to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the assembly.
  2. Lock the steering column by installing the J42640 into the underside of the steering column.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tires and wheels.
  5. Remove the power steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove or disconnect the following: CAUTION
    Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control, which could result in personal injury.
    • Intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt and coupling from gear
    • Pressure and return pipes from the gear
    • Electrical connector, if equipped
      Stabilizer shaft links at lower control arms
    • Remove the left stabilizer shaft insulator.
    • Rotate the stabilizer shaft to access steering gear bolts.
    • The outer tie rod retaining nuts.
    • Using J24319-B separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.
    • Rack and pinion attaching bolts
    • Rack and pinion assembly through the left wheel opening.
  7. Transfer the outer tie rods if replacing the power steering gear.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Rack and pinion assembly through the left wheel opening and tighten the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
    • Electrical connector, if equipped
      Pressure and return lines to the steering gear and tighten the fittings to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
    • Heat shield and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7 ft. Lbs. (10 N)
    • Install the left stabilizer shaft insulator.
  2. Install stabilizer shaft Links to lower control arms
  3. Intermediate shaft to the steering gear and tighten the pinch bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm)
  4. Install the outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
  5. Install the outer tie rods retaining nuts. torque the nuts to 22ft.lbs(30 Nm) plus an additional 180 degrees.
  6. Install the tires and wheels.
  7. Lower the vehicle.
  8. Remove the steering column anti rotation pin from the steering column.
  9. Fill and bleed the power steering system.
  10. Adjust the front toe.

Lock the steering column by installing the Steering Column Anti Rotation Pin tool J 42640 into the underside of the steering column--Aurora

tecnovative_120.gif
Steering gear mounting bolts--Aurora



tecnovative_121.gif
Power Rack & Pinion Steering Gear Heat Shield Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The stabilizer shaft links.
    • Rotate the stabilizer shaft downward.
    • The electrical harness clip.
    • Power steering gear heat shield mounting bolts.
    • The heat shield.
To Install:
  1. Install the power steering gear heat shield.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • The mounting bolts And torque to 89in.lbs.(10 Nm)
    • The electrical harness clip.
    • Rotate the stabilizer shaft into position.
    • The stabilizer shaft links.
  3. Lower the vehicle.
Figure of heat shield removed from above rack bolts with location shown

tecnovative_122.gif
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2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????

Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly
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Front spindle torque

Stabilizer Bar link to spindle 20-25 (Ft.Lbs) Tie Rod to spindle 35-46(Ft,Lbs) Upper ball Joint to spindle 56-76(Ft.Lbs).....Thanks
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