I can't get my back brakes to bleed how can't I get them to bleed

Question edited for clarity, wrong type of brake/break.

If you brakes have ABS, you have to bleed the brakes from the caliper up to the master cylinder using a pressure bleeder. It also works better on normal brakes because it pushes the air upwards which is its natural way, air rises in liquid.

start the bleeding process by opening the longest line first. Get a mate to help with the process . Pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the bleed screw is opened. tighten the screw and pump up again open bleed screw . Repeat process until no air comes out of the screw . Repeat the process back to the last line. Keep the master cylinder reservoir full during the processes.. Operational brakes will work wit or with out the booster . The booster only reduces the amount of energy you have to exert to put the brakes on

Click here Jeremy to see how to replace brake booster.

you need to bleed your master cylinder also. you are going to need help pumping on the brakes. and you can bleed your brakes on the master cylinder lines just you bleed your brakes.

are you getting a spongy feeling & no brakes? first answer these questions & it may solve your problem as boosters rarely fail


Did you bleed the brakes?


Did you bench bleed the master cylinder ? if not you can bleed the brakes for a year and never get a pedal.


to bleed the master remove it from the car just the master not the booster. clamp it good in a vise ,you should have gotten a bleeder kit with the new one , 2 hoses and a couple of fittings, find the fitting that fits, tighten it hand tight attach the hoses to the fittings and place the other end of the hoses in the master below the fluid line ,take a phillips screwdriver and pump the plunger on the master untill you see no more bubbles, leave the hoses attached intill you reinstall it. attach the brake lines and bleed the brakes starting with the passenger side rear , the driver side rear , passenger front ,driver front, in that order. good luck.

Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

nothing but fluid coming out of brake bleeders ,no more air in system brake booster needs replaceing was the master cyilinder bench bleed before install

Unless you are familiar with bleeding the break system I would not recommend this task. Sometimes it can be very difficult to get all the air out of the system especially if you do not bench bleed the Master. But If you'd like to try you have to break loose the brake lines that connect to the master and remove them. Then you have to remove the two nuts holding it to the brake booster which is usually black and round. When you remove it make sure you have taken out the old seal and you put back the new one. Now before you install the master you should fill it with fluid and push the shaft until fluid comes out the brake line holes. Once this has happened put something to plug it from leaking and install it on the car WITH NEW GASKET. Now install everything in the opposite order and bleed the brakes when your through... bleeding the master just helps you get less air in the system so its easier to do the initial bleed. SO EVEN THOUGH YOU BLEED THE MASTER YOU STILL NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES FROM EACH WHEEL.

A bad brake booster will result in a hard brake pedal, stiff and more effort required to stop the truck. Here are my questions to you, first, you said you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it? If not, there IS still air in it, regardless of how much you bleed the brakes at the wheels. Second, when you bled the brakes, after changing the calipers and master cyl., did you also bleed the proportioning valve? Sometimes air can get trapped in the valve, and its almost impossible to get it out bleeding just the wheels. And lastly, when the brake light comes on, does the abs light also come on with it? Air can also get trapped in the abs control module too.

you can tell if the brake booster is bad, rearly it goes bad, your master cyclinder usually go out before your brake booster will. It feel spoon-gy and while pressing down on the brake peddle holding it down you can feel the pressure bleed off with no resistance. If the brake booster is bad you have only ONE shot for braking each time; its very dangerous. Did you bleed the brake lines to release the the air out of the system when you replace the pad? whom ever did your brakes should know to bleed it. having air in the line can be dangerous as brake will not function and operates properly and can cause an accident. If you did bleed the brakes and your booster is fine then you have a master cylinder problems. master cylinder gives you a spoon-gy feel and when braking the peddle it tend to go to the floor and you have to let your foot up to build the pressure and applied the brake again to make it stop. Master Cyclinder use or rebuilt will cost you 30.00 bucks and new will be 58.00 bucks and they are easy to replace. Just make sure you have plenty of extra brake fluid to bleed all 4 brake line..I recommend you reused the brake fluid when bleeding the unit saving some money than wasting the fluid, glass jar is the best for capturing the bleed fluid with automotive smallest vacum hoses you can purchase at any auto discount store 58 cent a foot, which you only need 2 foot. good luck I hope that help some.