1995 Saab 900 SE turbo convertible. I just replaced the reminal for the MAP yes, manifold absolute pressure sensor. Running fine with minimal driving for a few weeks. On the day it died, it drove fine all day, from idle to 1st gear took a lot of RPM's. Felt a small couple of hiccups pull in immediately and it dies. Thinking maybe fuel pump? How can I test fuel pressure?
Look for a test port on the fuel pressure regulator. It will look similar to the valve stem on your wheel where you add air to the tire. Connect a test gauge there..
SOURCE: no power from fuse to fuel pump
fuel pump works fine but gage isn't working any one got any idea?
SOURCE: 1995 Saab 900 Won't Take A Fill Up
Sorry if this gets posted twice. I have a 95 Saab 900, which I just acquired. I can get only about 4 or 5 gallons in at a time. The best analysis I found was this one where the man pinpoints a stuck valve in the gas tank, and tells of what he did to address it.: http://www.quasimotors.com/9_5_gas_fill_prob.htm
SOURCE: no power from fuse to fuel pump
check in trunk for a fuel cut out switch, it shuts down fuel flow in case of an accident
SOURCE: how to relace clutch cable on 1995 saab se 900 turboon saab 900se
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.
SOURCE: 97 Saab 900 se Turbo won't start.
In order of failure rate you should check:
1) DIC (the red module sitting between the cam banks). This may or may not throw a code (random misfire or a specific cylinder misfire). The easiest way to check this is to simply swap in a known good DIC and see if this fixes the problem. You should also check your plugs at this point and ensure that they are gapped no larger than 1 mm, as overgapped plugs are the primary cause of DIC filures..
2) CPS (crankshaft position sensor) located on the right front lower corner of the engine block. This should throw a code, but may not. I do not have access currently to the electrical specs you should be able to read with a multimeter;
3) Fuel pump and fuel pump relay. To check this, remove the IAT sensor in the throttle body transition casting and spray starter fluid into the throttle body. Replace the sensor finger tight and crank the car. If it starts and runs until the starter fluid is gone, you probably have a pump or relay issue. Raise the rear seat and hammer on the top of the tank next to the fuel pump assembly with a large rubber mallet and then try to start the car. If it starts and runs, your pump is probably failing. Check the relay under the dash regardless to ensure that it is working. You should be able to hear the pump run when you turn the key to the on position, especially with the rear seat up.
Good luck.
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Replaced MAP sensor *terminal
This sort of problem is almost always a faulty air flow meter (which is basically similar to an electronic choke - remember them. Easy to diagnose if you have the correct fault code reader or any mechanic will diagnose it quickly.
A word of warning. They are quite (well ridiculous actually) expensive and often people choose to buy a used one which was working perfectly in the vehicle it was removed from for a fraction of the cost. Inevitably for some unknown reason (or without boring you with complex technical probabilities), they do not work in the new vehicle and end up being more costly and time consuming. Spend the money on the new one (or import it yourself if you have the time) and the car will run fine.
Testing fuel flow is also very simple. Attach a fuel flow gauge to the output side of the fuel pump (there are generally arrows showing which is which) and compare it to the manufacturer's specs.
I'm a long time Mechanical Engineer and I have to tell you that none of this is absolute. Electronics are now quite complex (and yes even with your model) and without having the car in front of me these are simply educated guesses based on prior experience so please don't abuse me if it turns out to be a different issue.
I'd only confuse you if I gave you all the possible options and you're unlikely to have all the expensive analytical equipment.
Good luck. The good part is it mostly is the most obvious solution.
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