I have made a mistake and put fluid in the big nut on top of gear tronic how do I rectify

Most manual transmissions don't use transmission fluid such as you would find in Automatic Transmissions... that I have ever heard of. They use a heavy grade multi-viscosity oil called, "gear oil}, especially made for manual transmissions. Typically, it's 70-90W SAE NGLI 4 or 5 grade oil pr maybe 90-110W SAE depending upon the mfr. To be sure, look at your owner's manual or use a Fleet Services catalog under one of big oil mfrs, like Shell, Ashland's Valvoline, Mobil, Quarter State, or Texaco. Usually, there is a large bolt at the sump, don't remove and drain out the fluid until you locate the fill access nut and can loosen it. Make sure your truck is on level ground. The fill access bolt is usually either a quarter inch square nut that you can turn with a 1/4" open-end wrench; however, some use an indented 1/4" or 1/2" indented square bolt/plug that you can use a suitably sized ratchet extension bar end with a ratchet to open. (Shorter length bar is often better for work in close quarters.) You will find the fill plug on one the side of the transmission casing, up high when your lying on your back underneath. Open the fill plug first, before you drain the transmission sump. Many transmission sump drain bolts have a thin metal washer on them that serve as a gasket... get a new one to replace the old one. Using the old one may cause a slow leak you won't be able to stop the very slow dripping on. The sump nut will have small pieces of metal filings on it, collected as the transmission gears wear... wipe off the magnetic underside of the bolt to clean it out with a rag. A toothpick works great at getting the fine metal particles off from around the edges. (Reminder: Take the fill port bolt off first and then drain the transmission sump by removing the sump nut.) After draining, put the "cleaned" sump bolt back on with the new washer. Ensure you have a short length of clear plastic tubing with you to push onto the open nozzle end of the gear oil container that is best cut with a carpet or box cutting razor with handle. (Remember to break the inner seal underneath the screw top nozzle.) (TIP: If there is little room to raise the bottle above the fill hole and squeeze it to empty it through the plastic tube into the fill port on the transmission, buy an extra quart of gear oil... it is easier to squeeze a full bottle and and top it up with another one as it gets too hard to squeeze when empty to make the oil come out..; go slow or you can squeeze so hard the nozzle will break and cover your hand with gear oil.) Fill the Manual Transmission case to the point where gear oil starts to trickle out of the fill hole and then put the square bolt back in with the open-end wrench or ratchet extension bar end. (TIP: Using an extension bar end is preferable to just a ratchet tip as it adds leverage to make the removal easier.)

Oops, this is a big mistake, but fortunately not the end of the world.

The 27 mm bolt anchors the B4 transmission band, which is what gives you third gear. If you were to drive the car now, you can't shift into third, but you can skip over it (geartronic) and shift into 4th.

There is a way to use a small screwdriver to try to shift the band back into place to where the threaded part rests right under the bolt hole.
If that fails, then you can drill a small hole in the 27 mm bolt and use a screwdriver through that hole and hold the band in place while you snug the bolt, then seal the hole (tap it and use a small screw, etc.).

If that fails, the trans comes out and has to be disassembled and reassembled.

Read more at the link below and good luck!

2002 XC70 Transmission Nightmare EVERYONE PLEASE READ Page 7

First you must mark the position of the big nut with a small chisel so you can get it back the same as it now is. Count the number of threads showing beyond the face of the nut. Remove driveshaft and lock the yoke in place using a big pipe wrench or something similar with a pipe over the end wedged against the ground or truck frame. Use an air gun if possible to loosen the nut. A breaker bar and cheater pipe may also be used. Remove yoke with drain pan underneath to catch fluid. Carefully pry old seal out (there are special tools made for this, but a big screwdriver will work if you are careful not to damage the area the seal rides in. Put some gear oil or grease inside the lip of the new seal and install it using a seal driver or big socket being carefull not to damage seal. Clean yoke and reinstall. Put some RTVunder big washer to prevent leaks and reinstall nut. Tighten it untill same # of threads show as when begun and marks you made with chisel line up. Top up fluid lost, reinstall driveshaft and done. One other thing, I usually mark the driveshaft and yoke to put them back as they were lined up.

Proper procedure would be specific to your Mazda. But, in general: 1) Loosen big axle nut with car on ground. 2)Place car front on jack stands, remove wheel. 3) Remove ball-joint from lower control arm to knuckle. 4) Remove tie rod end from knuckle. Knuckle and spindle assembly should now be free, only except hanging off of strut.5)Remove big axle nut and push axle out of knuckle. If it's stuck, try a solid piece of wood on end of axle, and a sharp hammer blow should free it. If that don't work, get a 2-jaw puller to remove axle from knuckle. Swing knuckle out and remove your half-shaft. May need to pry it from transmission, as may be held in by a small circlip. Careful you don't overextend the CV joints or they'll come apart. A big screwdriver between CV housing and transmission case should pry it out. When putting it back in (if there is a circlip on the transmission end) you need to hear it click or snap to verify circlip is seated. 6) Replace seal, and now you can put it back together. Tighten all removed nuts and bolts back to their proper torque. The big axle nut will take a lot of tightening-about 150-180 ft.lbs., so do that after car is back on ground. Done! One thing I forgot to mention: when you remove axle from transmission, fluid will come out, so have a drain pan ready. And top off transmission with proper fluid or gear oil when finished. Good luck. As said, procedure would be specific for your car, so I'm not positive you need to remove tie rod from knuckle.

if its a STICK-SHIFT, it wont hav a dip-stick,u need to raise up th car,nice & LEVELED, you will see a big-nut-on the side of th TRANS BUT MORE to the top of trany probably near the stick-shift u need to buy a hand-pump from any AUTO-PARTS-STORE, when u find the NUT, re-move it,and theres A HOLE,U need to pump th TRANS-GEAR-OIL,in through th HOLE,start pumping in the HOLE, until it starts coming out of the HOLE,when it STOPS coming--out,u are finish,also u are @ the full LEVEL--MARK... GOOD-LUCK!!!!!!

If it is a Tip Tronic box you won't be able to check the level.This can only be done by VW Dealer.The diagnostic tester has to be coupled up to check gear oil temp before checking level.

If you have gone to a shop to have your transmission maintained, I would get them on the phone immediately. Foreign cars, especially shiftronic trans. usually use different fluids. If they have put the wrong fluid or forgotten a filter, etc., you may have a destroyed system. Double check with your fluid type and the type inserted in your vehicle.

I have seen a posi rear that had regular gear lube put in instead of posi fluid. I had my transfer done on my 99 jeep and about three thousand miles latter I was getting a chatter, found out they check the rear while diagnosing the transfer case, and put reg. fluid in it. Sad thing is I was a repair shop but had an extended warranty on my vehicle so decided to farm it out so if there was a problem it was covered. Big mistake.

Check the differential.

Not a big job,just remove the top and bottom shock bolts [with the truck off the ground of course] and remove the shock.The front shocks have two bolts on the bottom and a nut on the top ,the top nut usually end up getting torched off but if you put penetrating fluid on it every time you think of it for a few days before trying to change it you may not have to cut then off.

Did you check the oil level inside the gear box? Most people never service the car, so this part gets neglected. if it ran out of oil, you probaply broke it(a big repair bill).
Try putting oil(probably 90w gear oil;check a manual,internet to make sure;if you make a mistake dont worry any oil is better than NO oil).
Check the differential fluid level too;same thing will happen if you neglect doing this.