Car starts fine and runs great. If it idles longer than 20 seconds it dies. Will re-start fine. Check engine light has not come on to show any code. Is this the idle speed control sensor? The part costs $150 so I want to know other possibilities to check.
Use a scan tool and check for any DTC's..
SOURCE: engine runs rough at certain speeds 3.0 v6 flex-fuel 1999 ranger
Check and see if the EGR valve is leaking, to check this spray water on it at idle, if the water steams off the valve is leaking and is the source of your problem, also are you sure you hooked the new DPFE sensor up right? re-check it..
SOURCE: 98 E-250 Rough Idle; codes p0156,p1131,p1151,p0301,p0171,p0174+
po301 thru po306 all misfire codes cylinder 1-6 remove plugs and replace them..... set the plug gap first
i suggest u replace the wires also if they never been replaced all these misfire codes can set the others and one is for the oxygen sensor ( 02s or HO2S) CIRCUT MALFUNCTION do u know how to check wireing systems
do the tune up plugs (set gap) .052-.056 change the fuel filter also. clear the codes hows it run
this info is for 98 E-250 4.2Litre
what engine do u have 4.2L or 4.6L i know it is a v-6 by the codes
SOURCE: Dies when idling, does better with a/c on, but still dies
this is your problem:
Here are the most common causes of surges, stalls at stops, low erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
SOURCE: 1993 (2.0l 4 cyl) Ford Probe Wont Idle when warm.
Josh, Did you output the car's diagnostic codes before you reset the computer?
Just to confirm: your car has the "FS" engine - 1991cc double overhead cams?
built on the Mazda "GE" platform?
does your car have an "engine check light" or "MIL" on the dashboard? if so where and what does it look like and what does do ? ie: comes on when ignition is turned on & goes out after engine starts. or comes & goes out after x seconds. etc etc
are you 5sp manual or auto trans?
does your car have a diagnostic plug with a flip open lid just behind the battery near the front left suspension tower?
SOURCE: my 93 ford probe gt wont idle and wont shift outa 2nd gear
Sounds like you need to check your vaccum lines for a leak. This is easy to do. Buy a can on carburator cleaner and with a friends help keep the car running as you spray your vaccum lines with the carburator cleaner one by one. If you have a leak it will **** the cleaner into the lines and cause the vehicle to stall out. Replace the line if this happens and continue checking all lines until all bad lines are replaced.
Also check manifold vacuum at idle the best you can hold an idle. I have run into timing belt being one tooth off and engine still ran fine. But the vacuum was low that's how I could tell the belt was a tooth off.
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