Had rotors and pads replaced, now pulsing in brakes and squeaking from right rear. pulled wheels and found rotor holes for lugs not hte same diameter as lugs, and no screw holes or anything to attach the rotors to the hubs, just the lugs. did they give me the wrong rotors, or leave out some spacers? this is a 2004 windstar van, 3.9l with 4 wheel disc brakes.

Your brake rotors are warped and need to either be shaved or replaced.

A lot of vehicles have nothing but the wheel nuts holding them tight because the actually caliper will hold them tight and aligned as well. What I would be concerned with is the fact that the diameter of the lugs seems larger. I would strongly suggest trying to give the rotors back to the shop and getting your money back. I would then buy a good set of your own from AutoZone or someplace and that way you can make sure you are getting the correct rotors. Brakes are too important to mess around with. If it is a reputible shop they will let you give the rotors back because obviously there is a problem with the one rotor anyway. If they won't let you give the rotors back, I would demand that they replace the ones that they have put on there as the squeaking is directly related to the one rotors placement. Good luck! Thanks for using FixYa!

First you want to remove brake fluid from brake resovoir, raise front wheels off ground and set park brake or block rear wheels. Remove front wheels, keep steering wheel unlocked so you can turn rotors side to side. Loosen bolts that hold caliper end gently pry caliper free from rotor, remove caliper and remove pads, use bungy cord to hang caliper away from rotor, have rotors measured to see if they are thick enough to have machined, replace if out of specs. Match up pads with old ones, use anti- squeak red liquid and put layer on back of pads, let dry. Use tool to put pistons back into calipers, slowly put pistons back into bore while opening up bleeder screw so ABS won't be damaged. After rotors resurfaced, wash with rubbing alchohal to remove any oils from hands, install rotors and reverse putting pads back onto caliper and reinstall, torque caliper bolts to factory specs and tighten bleeder screws. Install wheels, torque lug nuts to factory specs and replace brake fluid in resovoir. Lower car carefully to ground and press brake peddle without pumping it. Any air in system should bleed out, if not get someone to help with bleeding system. Road test to ensure no squeaks or pulling, burn brakes in slowly.

Is your ABS working properly? Under heavy braking the ABS should engage and 'pulse' the brakes on/off. It is normal to feel the brake petal flutter or pulse under your foot.

Under light braking there should be no pulsing as the ABS does not engage and you have changed the rotors and pads.

Depending on vehicle. Find level ground and park there. Put chocks in front and behind wheels not being lifted. Loosen lugs, jack up vehicle, set jack stands, lower vehicle on jack stands, remove lugs and wheel. Open hood remove brake fluid cap. Remove two bolts holding caliper, pull caliper off rotor disc and bracket, remove pads, place a used pad in front of caliper piston, use a c clamp to push caliper piston in caliper, remove c clamp and old pad, hang caliper up, remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket, remove bracket, remove rotor, install new rotor, install caliper bracket, install new pads, install caliper, repeat this on other side, put cap back on brake fluid tank, remove bleeder fittings and keep pressing brake pedal until an even flow of brake fluid sprays out. Install bleeder fitting. Make sure brake fluid doesnt get on paint and is contained and disposed of correctly, top off fluid install wheels and raise car up remove jack stands, lower car and break in new pads

Look through the openings in your front wheels and look at the front rotors-are they gouged up? You are probably running metal-to-metal, pads to rotors.
Chances are real good your rotors will have to be replaced along with new pads, but if you catch it early enough you might be able to have them machined, although nowadays that is hardly easy to get done and the savings usually is not as significant as it once was.

Park the polo on level ground, turn the engine off and apply the parking brake. Pull the hood release handle and move to the front of the car.

Lift the hood and remove the master cylinder. Remove one-half of the brake fluid inside the reservoir with a syringe.

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels with a tire iron. Place the jack beneath the frame at the back of the Volkswagen and lift the back tires off the ground. Rest the rear axles of the Volkswagen on two jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and take the rear wheels off.

Reach behind the brake caliper to locate the caliper mounting pins. Remove the pins with a 12 mm socket and ratchet. Lift the caliper from the brake rotor and suspend it above the wheel assembly with a bungee cord or wire coat hanger.

Remove the rear brake pads from the slots in the caliper bridge. Inspect the caliper bridge and rotor for damage and significant wear. Replace the rotor if it is warped or badly scored. Scoring of the rotors can lead to break failure and will prematurely wear the new brake pads. Place new brake pads into the slots of the caliper bridge.

Attach the piston depression tool to the caliper. The tool will fit over the back side of the caliper and against the piston inside. Twist the tool's handle to force the piston into the side of the rear caliper. Remove the tool once the caliper piston is totally depressed within the caliper.

Replace the caliper onto the caliper bridge and screw in the caliber mounting pens by hand. Replace the rear wheel onto the wheel bolt and screw on the lug nuts.

Repeat the process for the other side of the rear of the polo. Lift the rear end of the vehicle with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the rear tires to the ground and tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench.

Return to the engine compartment. Remove the master cylinder cap and check the level of brake fluid. Place a funnel into the container and fill the reservoir with brake fluid as needed.

Hello, to replace the rear brake pads follow the following steps:

1. Lift the Chevy Impala with the jack and place it on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheels with a lug-nut wrench and set them aside. The lug-nut wrench can be found in the trunk of your Chevy Impala.
3. Remove the caliper with a ratchet and use a bungee cord to hang the caliper. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose, as the hose might break and cause fluid to leak.

4. Remove the brake caliper bracket from the steering knuckle with a ratchet. Set it aside.

5. Remove the break rotor from the hub. The rotor might require force to be removed; if it does, use a hammer to hit the rotor in the center, where the lug studs are located. Take care not to hit the studs.

6. Remove the new rotor from its packaging and use brake cleaner to remove the grease from the rotor. Grease is applied on the rotor in the factory to inhibit rust during storage.

7. Install the new rotor onto the hub.

8. Install the caliper bracket with new brake pads onto the rotor and fasten it to the steering knuckle. Use a ratchet to tighten the bolts.
9. Open the master cylinder reservoir so you don't break a seal while compressing the brake caliper.

10. Compress the brake caliper with a C-clamp, so that the caliper can fit over the new brake pads. Install the caliper by securing it to the brake caliper bracket with a ratchet.

Thanks

Installing new brake pads on toyota camry solara 2006 front rotors and pads and rear pads. Steering wheel would shake while breaking on 50+ miles per hour speeds. All fixed now.

new rotors, machine rotors or just a pad slap?
pulsing indicates warpage, is if felt in the steering wheel or the brake pedal? did you do front and rears?
is it drum or all wheel disc brakes?