Probably a really simple question, but on a Mercury Mystique 1997 (manufactured 1996) brake master cylinder (with ABS), which port, front or rear, leads to the front wheel section of the ABS module?

If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

Nope - the master cylinder sends fluid to the ABS system, which then the fluid is sent to the brakes. It's all one system - you cannot eliminate the ABS without rerouting the brake lines to bypass it.

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

sometimes if you leave the bleeder screw open it will gravity bleed the cylinder.Make sure master cyl is full and do one wheel at a time.I have seen this work, I have done it.

start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.

IF IT HAS ABS U HAVE TO HAVE A SCAN TOOL TO ACTIVATE THE ABS PUMP.NON-ABS START AT THE MASTER CYLINDER AND BLEED THOSE LINES FIRST.THEN RIGHT REAR,LEFT FRONT,LEFT REAR & RIGHT FRONT IN THAT ORDER.STILL PROBLEMS U MAY HAVE A BAD BRAKE MASTER

Brake Lines and Hoses
Double-walled steel line is used in the hydraulic lines between the brake master cylinder and the front tube connector, and between the brake master cylinder and the flexible brake hose at the rear wheels.
Double-flared brake lines provide good leak-proof connections.
When replacing hydraulic brake lines, hoses, or connectors, tighten all connections securely. After replacement, bleed the brake system; refer to Section 206-00 .
The wet appearance of the outer cover of the rubber brake hose is referred to as "sweating." This is a normal condition for neoprene rayon braid hose and is not a sign of leakage or cause for replacement of the hose.

Hydraulic Brake System Components — Non-ABS


Item Part Number Description 1 2005 Power Brake Booster 2 2455 Brake Pedal 3 2261 Rear Wheel Cylinder 4 2552 Rear Disc Brake Caliper— (Mexico Only) 5 2B120 Disc Brake Caliper—, Front 6 2B091 Brake Pressure Control Valves 7 2140 Brake Master Cylinder

rate as fixya if this is what you need. Thanks

1. Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2K327).
2. Remove the brake caliper bolts.
3. Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B582).

1. CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pads.
   Remove the brake pads by pushing inward and rotating the pad up.

1. NOTE: Use a block of wood or used pad to protect the piston and boots.
   Retract the caliper piston (2196) into the rear disc brake caliper.

Did you bleed the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder? THen next furthest, to closest last. Did u make sure the master cylinder never got low enough to draw in air? To bleed, Pumo brakes 3x, holding pedal down 1/2 way, while bleeder is opened, let air/fluid flow, shut bleeder as flow diminishes so no air gets in the line. Is the car running when u bleed brakes? It should be. If u are doing all of this u should feel your pedal coming back (getting firm). Let me know how you make out. countrycurt0