Chevy l989 4X4 5 speed manual clutch not working

Did you also replace the pressure plate? Pilot bearing? If you replaced the clutch...and the car moved, and then stopped moving again...your issue is likely right there, bad pressure plate, flywheel may need resurfaced or replaced ETC. I am curious to know what the old clutch disc looked like when you took it out. Was it glazed or worn? I would pull the tranny again, and look at the new disc to see if it is glazed looking from slipping...and note if it is both sides, or one side, and which side...plate side or flywheel side. If you didn't replace the pressure plate/pilot bearing with the clutch disc...I would do that.

if everything is hook up properly then the fork of pressure plate spring are broken or pressure plate defect

A long and difficult job best done on a hoist. The transmission and transfer case are quite heavy so a gear box jack is the order of the day. Remove drive shafts at the gear box and transfer case . Remove the gear lever and any wires/hoses to the box. Undo the bell housing bolts and take the weight on the transmission jack. Take care here as the gear box/ transfer case will tend to turn and fall off the jack. Finish removing the bolts and full the unit back out of the road. Un do the clutch pressure plate bolts evenly and remove the pressure plate and clutch plate . The clutch plate only goes in one way so remember which way it was facing when you take it out. Remove the spigot bearing/bush from the crank shaft and fit new one . Check that the fly wheel is smooth and any blue spots and burn marks will have to be machine out so it will have to be removed as well for the machining. When all is done replace the fly wheel /clutch assembly . Replace the throw out bearing and prepare to refit the transmission. Yes you can take short cuts but it will result in a jumpy/ shuddering clutch and you will have to do it all again.(extra dollars and time).replace the clutch and pressure plate as a unit and not one or the other. It will take about 6 hours of work but it should be a good job to last a long time.

You need some very specialized tools to do that You'll need a jack to hold the transfer case once you remove all the bolts holding it to the transmission. Remove the drive shafts.Then you'll need to remove the transmission, again with a supporting jack. Once that has been accomplished , remove the bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel. I'd replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel that holds the input shaft to the gearbox before proceeding. There are special tools available to do that. Now assemble the clutch disk and the clutch plate and put the bolts back in without tightening them. Now take the clutch alignment tool and push it thru the clutch disk and into the new pilot bearing. position it so the clutch disk is dead center in the clutch plate and then finish tightening the bolts Put a new throw out bearing on the clutch release lever and reinstall the transmission and transfer case. Reinstall the drive shafts and replace any gear oil that may have spilled out of the transmission or transfer case. Adjust the clutch pedal clearance to spec and you're done.

You probably have a hydraulic clutch. A hydraulic clutch has both a master and a slave cylinder. The slave cylinder engages/disengages the clutch plate. You might be low on clutch fluid in the master cylinder, or the system may need to bled similar to bleeding brakes. Worst case is you need a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. They should all be replaced when doing a clutch job.

HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. IF U DONT HAVE AIR TOOLS U MAY FIND THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS VERY HARD TO UNDO BY HAND, MAKE SURE THAT U HAVE A BREAKER BAR & LONG EXTENTSION,USE HALF INCH DRIVE SOCKETS,EXTENTSIONS ETC...WHEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS R REMOVED .IF U HAVE A GEAR BOX REMOVAL JACK THAT WOULD BE GREAT, IF U DONT ITS QUITE DANGEROUS, U WILL NEED ANOTHER JACK PLACED UNDER THE MID SECTION OF THE BOX, ITS LONG & HEAVY, U WILL HAVE TO "BALANCE THE WHOLE BOX", BE BLOODY CAREFUL THE BOX DOES NOT ROLL OVER ON TOP OF U OTHERWISE U WILL END UP WITH SERIOUS INJURY. IF THE BOX ROLLS OVER DONT TRY & STOP IT ,JUST GET OF THE WAY REAL FAST & WORRY ABOUT THE REST LATER & LONG AS U R SAFE.ONCE THE BOX IS REMOVED, UNDO ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLY WHEEL. REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE & CLUTCH PLATE , U WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS TOO , WHICH WILL BE VERY HARD WITHOUT A PROPER COMPRESSOR & AIR TOOLS AS THEY R ALL TIGHTENED IN THE FACTORY BY AIR TOOLS OR ROBOTICS.TAKE THE FLY WHEEL TO A MACHINE SHOP & GET IT RESURFACE GROUND TO REMOVE ALL THE HOT SPOTS,CRACKS & SURFACE DISTORTIONS/IRREGULARITIES, OTHERWISE U MAY END UP WITH CLUTCH SHUDDER ON TAKE OFF , THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY NOT MACHINING THE FLYWHEEL. REFIT THE FLY WHEEL ,LOCK TITE ALL THE BOLTS & RETIGHTEN TO CORRECT TORQUE SPECS, OR A QUICK BLAST WITH AN HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT GUN, NOT TOO MUCH OTHERWISE U MAY BREAK THE BOLTS.REFIT THE NEW CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE ,THE CLUTCH SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE PRESSURE PLATE & FLY WHEEL,SECURE THE PRESSURE PLATE TO THE FLY WHEEL,WITH ALL THE BOLTS, DONT TIGHTEN YET AS U HAVE TO CENTRALISE THE CLUTCH PLATE FIRST, FAILING TO DO THIS, U WILL NEVER GET THE BOX IN AGAIN.U HAVE TO USE A CLUTCH CENTRALISING TOOL ,READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE TOOL. ONCE THE CLUTCH PLATE IS CENTRAL U MAY GO AHEAD & TIGHTEN ALL THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. 1ST NOTATION,# WHEN TIGHTENING FLY WHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS,TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, THINK OF A CLOCK FACE, TIGHTEN 12 OCLOCK, THEN 6 OCLOCK, THEN 3 OCLOCK, THEN 9 OCLOCK ETC...TILL ALL BOLTS R TIGHT.2ND NOTATION# MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION THAT CONTAIN THE SPRINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION FACE BACKWARDS TOWARDS TO PRESSURE PLATE OTHER WISE UR IN SERIOUS TROUBLE. REMOVE & REFIT THE NEW THROW OUT BEARING THAT COMES WITH THE NEW CLUTCH KIT, APPLY SOME HIGH TEMPERATURE WHEEL BEARING GREASE TO THE INPUT SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING SLIDES FORWARD & BACKWARDS ON THE GEARBOX.A QUICK NOTE, SOME THROW OUT BEARINGS, U HAVE TO REMOVE THE BEARING FROM THE SLIDE MOUNT & SOME THROWOUT BEARINGS COME COMPLETE WITH BEARING & MOUNT AS ONE PIECE.THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE OPERATION IS GETTING THE BOX TO SLIDE BACK INTO POSTION, IT IS VERY TRICKY, IF THE BOX IS NOT PERFECTLY LINED UP WITH THE MOTOR U WONT GET IT IN, U MAY HAVE TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR SO IT IS TILLED BACK IN ALIGHNMENT WITH THE BOX.ONCE ALL BACK TOGETHER, JUST RING UP MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT & ASK THEM WHAT TYPE OF OIL TO PUT INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE , WHICH CAN BE FILLED IN THE SIDE INPECTION PLUGS IN THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASES. MOST 4WDS GEARBOX & TRANSFER TAKE GL4 OR GL5 HYPOID OILS. GL4 = 75W/80 WEIGHT OIL & A GL5 = 80W/90 OIL WHICH IS A THICKER OIL. IN SOME VERY RARE INSTANCES SOME GEARBOXES TAKE ENGINE OIL OR A DEXTRON 3 OIL WHICH IS USED IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.ALSO CHECK THE OWNERS MANUAL IF U HAVE IT, THEY CAN BE HELPFUL.GOOD LUCK & WORK SAFELY, REMEMBER THE BOX IS VERY HEAVY & DANGEROUS SHOULD IT FALL ON TOP U, MY ADVICE ,GET IT DONE BY A MECHANIC..

If your car has a manual gear box thn the clutch plate may need replacing, if need be better to replace the pro-kit i.e clutch pressure plate , clutch plate and the relaese bearing.

bit of a job but you can do it remove driveshaft
remove cross bar (most models) disconnect the transfer case disconect the slave cylinder and all the lines going to the cooler support the motor take the trany bolts loose and pull the transmission out
remember that they are heavy ( replace the clutch
use the alinment tool reinstall the new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing assembly
reinstall the trans /transfer case and drives shafts
crossbar and all the little stuff cooling lines etc
slave cylinder etc good luck

You need to remove the transmission (and transfer case if its 4 wheel or all wheel drive) to access the clutch assembly. Be prepared to replace the clutch disk, pressure plate, thrust bearing, throwout bearing, and in your case since its a Ford/Mazda the slave cylinder and plastic line to the master cylinder. A very big job for the do-it-yourself-er.

Sounds like the wrong pressure plate. I got a kit from Autozone and it was the wrong pressure plate. My old one was obviously thicker. With the new pressure plate, the shift fork was almost at full travel before any resistance. That's no good. I had to pull the transmisssion again and use my old pressure plate. Luckily, it was in good condition. Then, the clutch slack was easily adjusted and works great.