My 2004 Chevy suburban "battery not charging" indicator light keeps coming on. AAA just put in a new battery

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Oct 25, 2009 - The Service Battery Charging System message keeps comming on in ... on the Information Center has started to pop up more frequently now.

Check the electrical connector. If it is part melted, the wires may be shorting. Splice in a new connector.
If not it, you may need a voltmeter to check voltages of wires into switch.

Most likely alternator packed it in --get a new or rebuilt alternator

Since you have no power at all (won't start, won't even crank, no lights at all), it sounds like either the battery is no good or there's a problems in the connection between the battery and the rest of your vehicle. Otherwise, I'd also be telling you to check the starter, the alternator, and the fuel pump... all of which I've had to replace my my Suburban in the last year or so!)

First try disconnecting the battery cables from the posts on the battery and clean the connections really well with some steel wool or a wire brush. It just might not be making a connection... so that even though your battery is charged, the power isn't getting to anything. (I always forget about cleaning the connections when it's me with the car that won't start; I keep some steel wool in the truck now.)

Also check along your battery cables to make sure you don't see any problems, like melted covers or broken wires that could be keeping the power from getting to the vehicle. (I had this happen where a previous owner had spliced in to the main cables and then later disconnected whatever it was.)

If that doesn't work, your battery might have gone bad and not even be taking the charge. If this is the case, you could charge it forever and it won't help. Disconnect the battery and take it to auto parts shops and ask them to test it (most will do this for free).

Hope that helps.

SOUND LIKE ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING BATTERY,WITH ENGINE RUNNING CHECK BATTERY VOLTS AT BATTERY SHOULD BE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS.IF NOT ALTERNATOR NOT WORKING CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY POWER FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR DAMAGE AND LOOSE CONNECTION. CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE.BEFORE REMOVING ALTERNATOR.TURN OFF RADIO FIRST BEFORE REMOVING THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TO KEEP FROM LOCKING OUT RADIO.

Are any lights or accessories on that could cause a battery drain Are you testing it immediately after charging? This will give you a false reading, let the battery stand for a while then test. You may have one or more dead cells. The battery will show its Ok but in reality its pouched! Head on down to your local Canadian Tire and get a new one.

if its a 5.7 change your distributor cap and rotor and problem will be solved guarantee it

because aaa can jump start it and you can't sounds like maybe the battery cables are curroided (dirty)
in-between the battery post and the clamps, clean the battery terminals and charge your battery as a loose conection can run down even a new battery

Hi Stuart, the battery light indicates that the alternator is not charging. The alternator needs to be repaired or replaced in the case where the alternator is the problem. Before replacing the alternator you might want to check your fuses. It might be that one of the main fuses blew, causing the alternator not to charge. The traction control light will come on if it detects a problem with the supply voltage to the control unit caused by the alternator not charging.

Common sources of battery draw:
Water and/or mud in side of the trailer wiring connector, especially the 7 pin with the trap door to hold it all in, keep those pins coated with dielectric grease.
Rusted/broken bracket on the underhood light not allowing switch to turn it off.
Glovebox door out of adjustment and latching but not turning off glovebox light.
And not to mention all those improperly added features like CD Players, CBs, Bass Systems, etc.

If these are not it read on, this test requires some experience and could zap you or your pacemaker so use common sense.
You can usually narrow your search with a 12volt automotive test light and the following method.
Open hood and drivers door and leave open for the duration of this procedure so that you have access to fuse panel, block door buzzer button so it won't be buzzing and unplug underhood light. Remove the fuse for the radio/clock to prevent false readings(the clock can drain your battery in 4 weeks), remove the positive terminal from battery. Now place one end of test light onto battery cable and other end on battery terminal, the test light should light, you will now need to wait at least 15 minutes for vehicle computer to go to sleep. Now when you come back from lunch and the test light is still lit, you most likely have a short. One at a time remove fuses from fuse panel until the test light goes out, when it does now you know which circuit it is in, and with the help of HAYNES manual (which contains wiring diagrams you should be able to pin-point the culprit). Repair it, put clock fuse back in(reset your favorite stations) Drive-on!