Were are the back up light fuses on 09 nissan titan

Hello .. As strange as this may sound ,, your brake lights are (most of the time) tied into your signal light switch . Try plugging in on you know is good before buying a new one . It stops your front signal lights from coming on when you apply the brakes since your signal lights usually run on the same wire as the brake lights ....

Hi. Your dome light symptoms could be due to a faulty connection. I recommend starting at the fuse box then at the light fixture itself. More than likely the light fixture is worn out. But it is important to investigate first. If you run an old "Bulb Style" test light from the battery, to the light fixture. You can test the connections. Probe the bulb contacts first. Clamp the test light to ground to test for power then clamp to power to test for ground. Run this test both at the bulb connections and at the plug on the backside of the dome light fixture. If the lamp on the test light is bright at the plug but dim at the bulb connections. Then the fixture is no good. Look for overheating, corrosion and frayed wires. Good luck.

Eric,
Does the break light on the top of the cab work? If so the fuse and stop lamp relay are ok.
If not the 10 amp fuse in fuse box (JB) maybe open # 20 Stop Lamp passenger side panel . If it is good there is a stop lamp relay (E12) in fuse box under hood from the manual it is the second one in from the left by the battery. Also there is a(VDC) Control Unit (E125) can't find where in the manual it is located.
You would think that the power from the battery , fuse switch to lights not, that is why I got the complete manual for the truck. hard to under stand at times.

I think it is most likely a wiring problem causing this. Titans are notorious for having the exhaust rust through after the muffler. I would trace the passenger side wiring harness back and check for fused together wires. I take it your Titan is a floor shifter not a column. If so I suggest taking the circular cap off right by the shifter (shift interlock over ride). If you can put a key in and compress the over ride then you should be able to shift through gears to rule out a transmission problem. No maf sensor would cause this, nor would a bad transmission. Make sure to check all fuses that are labeled electronic parts, they are connected to your interlock system. The abs and wheel speed sensor is what is making it impossible to shift into 4x4 . All of these problems are separate fuses, but the wires are all in the same harness running past the exhaust.

If the blinker is working on the truck then fuse is good, this sounds like a bad bulb or connection to the light, the brake and signal use the same filement in the bulb. check the bulb first, next thing to determine if its the trailer wiring or the truck socket, use a testlight and test the connector or the wire at the trailer connector and see if there power in the wire, but check close to connector if theres power coming out the connector then it in the trailer wiring or bulb,. also im not sure what this trailer turn relay rh is that you speak off. the only thing i could think of is to converter the signal and brake on the truck to operate the same bulb on the trailer, if this is what you installed then check that wiring also as the controls the lights to the trailer, but if this truck was built with the tow package then it should of be wiring already for this. here a good site to help you with the wiring as this gets hard to explain over the computer, but again test the tow connector on the truck first with a testlight, this way you will be able to see if it the trailer wiring or the truck wiring to connector. google trailerlightwiring. good day. let me know if you have any other questions.

usually if the front are working then the rear should be too. check your light bulbs. if you tow stuff, check the wiring harness on the hitch.

1 - are you SURE theyre the right bulbs! - if theyre too bright they can blow the fuse, if theyre the wrong type of bulb they will blow the fuse.. best get the bulbs direct from ford, they are always in stock, so are the proper fuses.
2 - theres a center brakelight isnt there? check this bulb too for proper wattage and size/shape
Other than that maybe the wiring in the boot is damaged and shorting?? -----
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Before getting too involved, first remove all the stop and taillight bulbs, and see whether the fuse remains intact. It may be necessary to remove the front clearance bulbs as well.
If the fuse still blows, carefully inspect all the bulb sockets for signs of wires touching. Repair anything you see.
If I remember right, there is a set of connectors within the boot (trunk) of the car. If the problem persists, disconnect all of them. Try the fuse blowing bit again.
If it still blows, the problem must be between the switch and the rear.
If you have one, an ohmmeter check between the "dead" contact of the fuse holder (no fuse fitted)and chassis ground may show a dead short. Tyring each of the connectors in the boot in a similar manner may isolate one particular wire. Then you know what colour wire you are looking for.
Then it's just a matter of tracing the wiring loom back (I think it runs under the floor coverings from memory?), until you find the damage.
A wiring diagram won't really help, lights are always wired in a simple circuit. Somewhere the wire from the switch will split to go to the other light(s), and a short could be in the second or other wire.
I have seen shorts occur even IN light bulbs... so if the fuse doesn't blow after removing the bulbs, check each one before replacing!

Have you checked the switches, wires, etc with a test light?

replace the fuse it is located under the hood!